Critique my solar setup plan?

[mrsa111]

So i'm planning out a solar setup for my van, I've come up with a list of everything i think i'll need, I just want to get some critique because when it comes to this stuff I really dont trust myself. I want to make this future proof incase I want to run more panels and run more stuff in the future..

Heres what I need to run..

-Maxxfan, probably for long periods of time, the majority of a day while the suns out.
-Maybe a second small fan on the interior.
-Fridge, not sure which yet, it will be small and efficient though
-charge phone, laptop, cameras etc.
-occasionally run a sound system
-LED light strips for maybe 3-4 hours a night max
-Water pump, and probably a water heater
-Thinking about an electric stove if i can make it work, but can easily just go propane.
-have enough left over incase i want to add any other kitchen appliances or whatever

And heres what i'm thinking for my setup
-Battery:whatever AGM battery seems good, a lot out there. (really thinking about lipo
- Panels: 2x grape solar 180w panels (purely because they seem to be a good price on home depot)
OR a 320W panasonic panel: https://www.altestore.com/store/sol...-watt-hit-high-efficiency-solar-panel-p40660/ (not sure on the pro's/cons of 1 vs 2 panels.
-Charge controller: Victron BlueSolar 100/30 MPPT
-Inverter charger: Renogy 1000W pure sine wave inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...e=sl1&linkId=7be2168644e50ec312de93d60eed709a
-Monitor: not sure, thoughts?
-Wires and misc install stuff, again not sure.

Now to make it more complicated.. I want to charge my house battery off my alternator/car battery. I have a duel battery setup already, but I want to keep that separate from the house battery as I need it for the amount of cold weather driving I do.
Ideally, I'd like to charge my car and house battery while driving, and when I'm parked, not be drawing any power at all from the car battery. what else would I need to make that work?

 

[john61ct]

Panels: put up absolutely maximum watts as you can get to fit, pay a bit more total if you have to.

May still need some more, portable or a little gennie if boondocking.

Why do you want two batteries for starter/engine?

Why do you think you want AGM?

Put the kibosh on an electric stove, way too much electricity. Likely same with water heating, look at propane or webasto style. Unless you're using a gennie regularly anyway. . .

 

[mrsa111]

Panels: put up absolutely maximum watts as you can get to fit, pay a bit more total if you have to.

May still need some more, portable or a little gennie if boondocking.

Why do you want two batteries for starter/engine?

Why do you think you want AGM?

Put the kibosh on an electric stove, way too much electricity. Likely same with water heating, look at propane or webasto style. Unless you're using a gennie regularly anyway. . .

weight up high would be the biggest thing keeping me from running more panels on the roof, i already have a lot of plans with the interior build and roof rack that are gonna put a bit of weight up high, so im trying to minimize it. Though i definitely can carry an extra panel or two for when im parked.

i want two starter batteries because its a diesel and i camp a lot in winter, when its cold it needs all the excess cranking power it can get. ive had a couple -25ish nights where its a pain to start the next morning.

Ive just been told go with AGM, but open to whatever. im about as clueless as it gets when it comes to electrical so im all ears.

 

[mightiestmouse]

There are hundreds of ways to get the job done. I recently built my system and it performed flawlessly on my 9 day tour around Lake Superior. I run an ARB 50 fridge set at 31*, and charged all my camera batteries, phone, go pro...etc from my house battery the entire trip. I decided to go with Group 31 AGM batteries from batteries and bulbs as they were rated in the 90ish amp hour range and can handle deep cycles of discharge (if needed).

Achieving what you want with the "charge both batteries while driving and have them isolate when stopped" is accomplished with this: https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/35/91/Automatic_Charging_Relays/ML-ACRs. I use the 7622 model. While I believe there are other components that do the same job for a slightly cheaper setup...I put my faith behind blue sea. The best part about the system is being able to manually combine the batteries (if needed) for heavy duty winching or self jumping. From my experience, I get 13.3ish volts across both batteries while the truck is running and the system isolates itself after they drop to 12.8 volts when the truck is off.

Couple of other things you will need to finish out your build:
Battery trays: batteries, especially if you are going with a larger size are dangerous if not tied down properly during an accident.
Welding cable: Make sure your cable size is large enough for the amps you are sending through the system. I used 2GA for the batteries and 10GA for my accessories.
Fuse block: Blue sea makes a great fuse block that is either 6 circuit or 12 circuit.
Batteries: make sure they are of the same time, age, and size. While you can mix and match, you will reduce the lifespan of the batteries.
Inverter: Determine if you really need one. There are multiple gadgets out there that will charge just fine off 12V. I was lucky enough to have one built into my Tacoma.

Like I said, there are many ways to build these systems ranging from $200 up to $1000(s). My batteries alone cost $600 but I am heavily invested in my truck and I only wanted to build the system once. I don't have solar incorporated into my setup, but I plan to add 100W sometime in the near future which should manage running the fridge indefinitely.

 

[Scoutn79]

I would add up the watts/amps, whatever is provided, of the items you want and do the math to figure the amps they will use over the duration you intend to use them each day. If the water heater is gas then no biggie if it's electric it will put a serious dent in a battery if not run it flat in short order same with an electric oven. I don't know how many watts a camp size electric over draws but I would think you would kill a battery long before your food is warm. A small genny might be a great addition if you are dead set on an electric oven. R/V's use gas range/ovens that use zero electricity but do require gas and exhaust plumbing. There are also stand alone units from companies like Coleman etc and could be used outside as well as inside with some open window type venting of course.
There are also instant water heaters that use gas that might be worth a looksee.

Darrell

 

[mrsa111]

alright thanks a lot for the help so far. I definitely dont need to an electric stove/oven, i was just entertaining the idea. I'm trying to save as much space as possible, which is why i dont want keep a propane tank in the van. though a stove/oven combo takes up a bit of space in itself so i could probably do with just the stove..

Anyway, is there a company anyone would recommend sticking to for the whole system, inverter, moniter, etc..? I like the idea of using products from the same company that are meant to work with each other.

 

[Rando]

Victron. See this thread a few down the page that is asking essentially the same question:
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/threads/172874-Help-design-my-adventure-van-power-system-please

 

[mrsa111]

any reason not to go with this?
https://www.invertersupply.com/inde...ucts_id=4633&gclid=CMne59KFyNQCFUa2wAodmOcDjQ

seems like it'd really simplify the setup, so as far as I can tell, it takes care of the charge controller, inverter, and shore power (i should be able to just wire a shore power hookup into the unit right?)

And i'll still need a way to charge the house battery off the alternator/starter batteries when running correct? which im not sure how I would hook that up with this particular unit. If I'm understanding it right, i'd wire something like the blue sea automatic charging relay between the starter batteries and the house battery? so its charging the house battery directly?

Now, if i decide to go with lithium batteries, is that going to complicate things a bit? I'm really leaning towards it for the space and weight savings, I'm looking at a couple batteries around 50-60AH which is probably all i can afford to start, hopefully get me by for a month or two, but if i add a second in the future I'd think i would be set?

 

[Bbasso]

Seems like overkill to me but I like things simple.

Two roof fans? I've got one fantastic fan and I hardly ever turn it to med let alone high... need hurricane force winds inside? LOL
If you choose propane for cooking and water heating (eccotemp) your electric needs go way down. Min cost and ease too.
My Engel MT45 has served me well and is very efficient.

The majority of your power to be used is to charge all the devices. Switch to 12v instead of using an inverter.

But I do agree, get as many watts on the roof as $ and space allow. Keep the inverter matched to your needs, no need to be able to power a microwave when all you need is a small tv.
Be sure to add the blueseas ACR 7622, it's well worth the $ and effort.

 

[mrsa111]

the two fan thing was more just a thought, i was thinking of a 2nd very small fan in the rear door or something to get more airflow through the van.

as far as 12v vs 24, i am pretty lost. i've just been spending my time figuring out all the components ill need first.
I mean, i need to power a fridge, diesel heater, fan, lights, water pump, and potentially a water heater. All of that can be easily done on 12 or 24 right? so yes as far as that goes i'd probably go with a 12v system.

I was told 24v solar panels may be better than 12v, so if i were using 24v panels on a 12v system, would that complicate things more? or doesnt the charge controller take care of that?

As far as things like plugging in a laptop, camera battery chargers, phone, maybe a tv.. Thats shouldnt matter if its a 12 or 24v system since that all would be run through an inverter and to 110v wall outlets.

That victron easy solar setup is getting more and more appealing, i know i could probably save $500 by buying all the components seperate, but damn id pay $1000 to remove all the headache of figuring this system out.

 

[dlh62c]

When the outside temperature is in the triple digits, it sure would be nice to park up in the shade and place the panels away from the vehicle out in the sun.

Consider working a portable solar panel option into your design.

 

[mrsa111]

Mr. Franklin can give you thirteen hundred reasons not to.

That seem about right, Be sure the model if you select is valid for the mainspower you intend to connect to.
Victron seems a good reputation, Its probably reliable. But, Its putting eggs in one basket. A singular failure may knock out your entire system. Individual assemblies. Charge controller, inverter, transfer device, etc. can be replaced or improvised "on the fly" or done without until repairs effected.
Also, Rather than expensive 'Plug-n-play, Individual assemblies forces one to better understand their electrical system.
In fairness, Perhaps this Victron is internally modular and easily repairable or 'work aroundable' within. Who knows ??

Unless this Victron has an 'Aux charging input, I think thats right.
Be aware if that Victron has some kind of power stored datalogging, Directly connecting some form of 'aux charging will likely bypass that feature.

I WANT to undestand my electrical system, but i am on a bit of a time crunch and trying to get everything finished up in less than 3 weeks. I think I have some kind of mental block when it comes to this stuff, i've spent a ton of time trying to understand it and it all looks like foreign language and scribbles to me.

I guess at the end of the day if the system sucks, which i highly doubt it will, im out 1300, and ill put in a different system with all the components separate.

It sounds like hooking up to shore power on this unit should be pretty easy. so im wondering if i can somehow hook it up so the charge through the starter batteries goes through the shore power AC in?

OR I just wire the starter batteries to the house battery through the charging relay. the only problem i see there is if i go with a lithium house battery, im not sure how that would work getting a charge through my regular car batteries..

 

[mrsa111]

When the outside temperature is in the triple digits, it sure would be nice to park up in the shade and place the panels away from the vehicle out in the sun.

Consider working a portable solar panel option into your design.

Yeah im trying to plan out a rack system to make the panel easy to take on and off, shouldnt be too hard, then just carry extra wiring to go from the roof to wherever the panel ends up. and/or i'll just carry an extra foldable panel to use when parked.

 

[Bbasso]

Where are you located? Maybe there is a member there who can show you how their system works so you have a better idea to plan yours.

 

[dwh]

I WANT to undestand my electrical system, but i am on a bit of a time crunch and trying to get everything finished up in less than 3 weeks. I think I have some kind of mental block when it comes to this stuff, i've spent a ton of time trying to understand it and it all looks like foreign language and scribbles to me.

I guess at the end of the day if the system sucks, which i highly doubt it will, im out 1300, and ill put in a different system with all the components separate.

It sounds like hooking up to shore power on this unit should be pretty easy. so im wondering if i can somehow hook it up so the charge through the starter batteries goes through the shore power AC in?

OR I just wire the starter batteries to the house battery through the charging relay. the only problem i see there is if i go with a lithium house battery, im not sure how that would work getting a charge through my regular car batteries..

Send me a PM with a phone number and a good time to call when we can talk for a while. We'll get it sorted out.