Crush sleeve VS shims

cumminscruiser

Adventurer
My FJ 60 diff uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion location, another gearset I have uses shims to set the pinion. I tried to buy a 3.70 gear set and they only had a set that uses shims, I guess they are interchangable.

Any ideas on waht you guys like better?

Oh I am still looking for a 3.70 ring and pinion.
 

adventureduo

Dave Druck [KI6LBB]
If i remember correctly when i asked several years ago, i thought that gear shops preferred using crush sleeves.. and i've forgotten what the reason was. I "think" crush sleeves are easier for setting up the gears because you don't have to keep pulling shims out. As far as longevity and durability.... i would think shims would be the way to go.
 

I Leak Oil

Expedition Leader
I've never heard of them being interchangeable before. I always thought the casings were different to accomodate one method or the other.
Anyone know for sure????
 

pcampbell

Adventurer
This may not help but the 8" mini truck axle can do either. They used a solid spacer with shims on the earlier model and went with crush sleeve later on. Most people see the solid with shims better as a hard hit won't loosen it any by compressing the sleeve more.

Also, whether solid spacer or crush sleeve, it's for setting the pinion bearing preload, not for locating the pinion. There are shims under the head of the pinion that set the depth. I guess the FJ60 axle could be different, but I'd be surprised if it is.

IMO the solid spacer is easier to set up because you have infinite retry attempts. The crush sleeve is a one shot deal. If you set the preload too much, you have to get another sleeve. Most gear install kits do come with 2 though. You just have to "sneak" up on the preload instead of just cranking it down to a certain torque and being done.
 

instantninja

New member
I have a surf, it uses the 8" rearend with crush sleeves, i've had 2 crush beyond usable while being used in the truck. the first time was on the factory build, second time was on my rebuild. I'll be going to the solid sleeve and shims to avoid this happening while out in the bush.
when the crush sleeve goes, on decelleration it pulls the pinion into the carrier causing alot of damage. I've got pictures some where of the carrier I'll try to get up
if you can go with either one go with the solid sleeve and shims.
 

DBS311

Adventurer
I have solid spacers front and rear in my FJ62. I've always preferred them to crush sleeves.
 

cumminscruiser

Adventurer
Crush vs shims

I was told by the guy at West Coast Differentials that the housings will accept either but the pinions are different. I chickened out buying the ring and pinion there becouse it was made in India. I really don't know if that's good or bad but I want something atleast as good as origional.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyle2CuDgIo
 

p1michaud

Expedition Leader
Opt for a solid spacer/shim.

My FJ 60 diff uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion location, another gearset I have uses shims to set the pinion. I tried to buy a 3.70 gear set and they only had a set that uses shims, I guess they are interchangable.

Any ideas on waht you guys like better?

Oh I am still looking for a 3.70 ring and pinion.

Cumminscruiser,
I’ve got a few questions because I've never taken a FJ 60 diff apart. When you say a crush sleeve to set pinion location, I'm not sure I follow. Typically shims are used under the main pinion bearing (one closest to the pinion teeth) to set pinion depth or location as you call it. Once the pinion depth is set up, you can either use a crush sleeve or solid spacer with shims to set pinion pre load (i.e. pre-load on your pinion bearings). For the typically 4WD application, a crush sleeve will be fine however the solid spacer/shim combo offers some advantages:
  1. More robust set up and won’t tend to loosen up on pre-load once set up properly and the pinion nut does not come loose. Admittedly it takes a bit longer to set it correctly.
  2. As previously mentioned, if you need to change out a leaking pinion seal you can without having to worry about re-setting your pinion bearing pre-load.

If your diff is set up correctly, either method will provide years of service but for my time and effort, I’d use a solid spacer with shims. Not sure if you’ve heard of Zuk but his website has some great information and I’ve used it to re-build and re-gear a few diffs now.
Cheers,
P
 

cruiseroutfit

Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
A bit late but hope this is helpful.

For starts, the crush sleeve or solid sleeve don't set the pinion location, only the pinion depth shims do that. The crush sleeve/solid spacer or shoulder as I'll discuss only set the pinion preload, well and I guess ensure the pinion depth doesn't increase by keeping the lower bearing firmly in its race, aka preload :D

Technically, Toyota never offered a crush-slim eliminator nor a solid sleeve per say. Rather any of the early pinions (anything up to the late model 60 Series) had a built in shoulder that seated the upper/outer bearing, thus to adjust preload you simply shimmed the outer bearing (after setting pinion depth on the lower bearing to pinion or lower bearing race to housing). Most high quality R&P install kits still include the pinion preload shims as part of the kit, I know all the kits we offer do because its not at all uncommon for us to add a locker or rebuild an older 3rd that still utilizes the shouldered pinion.

On the flip side is the newer non-shouldered pinion used in ever late model application and every common aftermarket gearset pretty much across the board. It has the option of using a crush sleeve or if available a solid-spacer that is often produced aftermarket. We started making them for the Land Cruisers 2-3 years ago, and companies like Marlin & All Pro have been making them for the 8" applications for quite some time. These will add the shoulder for the outer pinion bearing much like a shouldered pinion, however the rest between the two bearings exactly like a crush sleeve. Essentially they are just a really thick crush sleeve.

Now, are crush sleeves bad? After all Toyota among countless other applications used them on all of their later builds including 80 Series, 100's, Hi-Lux, Tacoma, etc. Well I don't think they are that bad, especially when installed and setup correctly. While they are easier to setup for a trained diff rebuilder, they are also a bit easier to screw up for a novice mechanic. Also there are cases where the crush sleeve and "re crush" after installation thus leaving little to no preload and slop in the pinion. Another added benefit of the solid-spacer is the ability to replace pinion seals or pinion flanges without havng to be super delicate with the crush sleeve, rather you undo the pinion nut, replace parts an re-torque the pinion nut (checking the preload before and after to be sure). In all the diffs we set up for customers across the US (and outside) I can think of only a couple instances of crush sleeve issues, including on my own FJ40. For that reason I designed some spacers (first production ones for an LC to my knowledge) and put them to the test. Again, does everyone need them or should you tear your diff apart to install them? No. Are they a good peice of mind when setting up gears, sure. My suggestion would be to consult your ring and pinion installer and get his/her opinion on the matter as ultimately they have to set them up and stand behind the work.
 

ntsqd

Heretic Car Camper
I have experienced the crush sleeve relaxing or further crushing under load in two different axles. An 8" Ford, which uses the same crush sleeve or solid spacer as the 9" Ford; and an 8" Toyota Mini. Both were rebuilt with solid spacers.

I'm glad to hear the Cruiser Outfitters has solid spacers, something to add to my re-gearing/ARB order when the time comes.
 

cumminscruiser

Adventurer
Cruiseroutfit, Do you offer a shim kit to replace the crush sleeve on the crush sleeve type pinion? If so I would be interested in it. I'll set the diff up myself.
 

spressomon

Expedition Leader
cuminscruiser: Maybe I'm all wet here: But I think a crush sleeve is used on the initial set-up to get the mic'd thickness of the soon to be machined and installed pinion spacer (assuming you are installing a solid pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve; and assuming you don't happen to have the exact thickness laying around). The pinion spacer is used in lieu of the crush sleeve. It has been advised, and like all things this will cause ceaseless debate in the LC community :coffeedrink:, due to a variety of known issues on the 100-series front diffs and given the fact the front differential/3rd assembly is a little on the small/light side for a modded, heavily laden and off-road used 100 series rig a pinion spacer is preferred.

Under severe torque and if there is any deflection whatsoever in the ring gear assembly a crush sleeve can be tweaked, as mentioned above, so that it effectively is slightly more 'crushed' thereby changing the thickness.

As above there are many variables to consider. If you do/have done a lousy diff setup a solid pinion spacer won't save you :).
 

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