Custom Truck Bed Build for FWC & Chevy 2500 Duramax
- Thread starter shanz3n5
- Start date
Here are the mock up pics of the corner jack brackets. Fine tune to come. More pics to follow soon. Thanx for being patient. The thinking as we go is the longest time consuming part. BUT...... I do need HELP or advice on fuel .... as of now i will relocate the FASS fuel pump and fliters to opposite side frame rail. Clearance and just looking for a less congested area, as the fuel fill is giving me an issue. The '03 fuel fill is a tube in a tube system. Inner hose is tank FILL (existing 1" plastic flex), Outer hose is tank VENT (2" grade 2 rubber - whatever that means- ha). So after hrs online researching, for a continuous line, with me making the bends, i cant find. Apparently there would be an issue with certain material of tube being submerged or always in contact with diesel. So i was trying to find similar, semi-rigged material. No luck so far. The outter hose shouldnt be an issue.. This is my thought as of now.....make a hard line fill tube, bending, out of stainless or titanium, then drift the 2" vent tube over it. The Bezel... dont care what its made of at this point, the down angle degree is the hard find. Stock angle is almost Zero. Steve and I both looked at it and it should be about 10-12 degrees. I can only find 21 or 42 degree bezel / cup. There has got to be a prefabbed 12 degree or so out there. For those who can picture this.....its prob 2" straight hose off stock tank then a hard line @ 90 dg. to 36" soft line, to either a 90 or 45, to 12' soft to tie into stock filler neck, to a straight or 12 deg-ish bezel/cup to flush mount wall.
Mock Brackets:
just existing fuel fill shots:
Mock Brackets:
just existing fuel fill shots:
Last edited:
Sorry for the delay in progress. I've been at the fire station the past 4 of 5 days, with one day off for household chores and time with my 12 yr old daughter at Soak City. i got some pics from Steve and he has been skinning the steel skeleton, and setting up plasma table to cut out light holes in the rear. Ive ordered the new fuel filler lines and filler neck, they should be here in a day or so. i will do a trial run on its location to the forward corner of the wheel well, to ensure the downward slope to tank neck will have enough pitch not to get back flow. From what I've read a 21deg slope is the min ideal slope, and i maybe at about 12deg. This issue was an oversight, we brought the bottom of the middle box about 6 inches lower then standard, to create as much storage as possible. If this doesn't work, i have 2 other ideas. One is to put the filler neck in a compartment the other is to put it in a tight spot outside the body on the forward side of the front bulkhead near the cab. Any good thoughts or ideas???
Tomorrow on my way home i will be picking 1 T-Handle latch and rod set for compartment closure, need a fitment check before cutting holes. ill update after visit to shop. Then over the next few days off ill be working on the the camper jack brackets at home.
Tomorrow on my way home i will be picking 1 T-Handle latch and rod set for compartment closure, need a fitment check before cutting holes. ill update after visit to shop. Then over the next few days off ill be working on the the camper jack brackets at home.
brian90744
American Trekker
rear jacks location
Why did you not remove and remount the rear jack brackets facing the rear? instead of the side. No need for jack extensions on the back. As long as you don't back-up into the jack.
just FYI=brian
Why did you not remove and remount the rear jack brackets facing the rear? instead of the side. No need for jack extensions on the back. As long as you don't back-up into the jack.
just FYI=brian
Scoutman
Explorer
I had wondered that too but figured it was because the jacks may hit the bumper when it's finished.
topofpalomar
Enthusiast
Subscribed.
I'm liking where this is going, since it is a custom "utility bed" set up.
Question - it looks like a close fit at the top for the rear tires in the wheel well, or is it the viewing angle of the photo.
Keep the posts coming!!
I'm liking where this is going, since it is a custom "utility bed" set up.
Question - it looks like a close fit at the top for the rear tires in the wheel well, or is it the viewing angle of the photo.
Keep the posts coming!!
Hey Scoutman and Brian, yes that's the reason for Jack mount location. The permanent/fixed bracket will end at the face of the box side while the camper is on the truck. If we went off in the rear direction at a 90 they would come out further do to step of bumper, if i went to a 45 off rear it would shorten the extension by almost 2" but the bracket always be sticking out,at a 45 or 90, possibly catching someones head, if they weren't pay attention
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topofpalomar and Expomike,
There is plenty of travel above the tire right now with no air in the bags, but that was a concern in thought. wieght and spring support/air support will be adjusted soon. Not sure how many know of the infamous "chevy lean", but i will be brain storming that as well. i have avoided the fix for years by airing up more on the drivers side. i did not weigh the truck prior to bed removal but i will weigh a buddies unless someone here has the stock weight. as it sits now im just off the overload stock leaf spring. and there is more weight coming as we finish skinning and adding doors. Here is the plan until someone smarter chimes in: finish the build for total weight, i beileive i had about 2700 pounds to play with before i hit GVWR rating of 9200. Add a leaf to "Chevy Lean" side then use a set of Helwig or similar helper springs to bring the stock height/arch back, then air up my bags for payloads. again this concern is still rattling in the brain. so input is welcome.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
Yeah, I was really hoping to find out what the stock bed to fabbed bed weight difference is. My Ram is sitting near 8500 lbs (varies slight by gear loaded) on a 8800 lbs GVW. I am doing everything I can to try to keep at or under GVW. I do need more/better storage and have been looking to swap out the stock bed. I even have an aluminum flat bed I am thinking of using and adding storage boxes to it but I like the cleaner setup like you are going with. At the same time I am not going to overload the rig if I can avoid it.
So sorry for the delay in progress. There has been some skinning progress. Had to do some work on the the filler neck and vent hose as well as relocate the FASS pump/filter, and man is it a tight fit. We will have to put an access panel in forward compartment to change filters as well for any repair to the pump if need be in the future. Steve has been working on stitching the panels to frame work and the tedious grinding. He will start the flush mounted door frames tomorrow and the headache rack to follow. and i will order the 3 pt. t-handle latches. i have been also working on the corner brackets for the camper, and how i will capture the frame work. as i opened the one left rear corner wall i found a few extra holes, that were from shoty craftsmanship. which i hope was done under old FWC ownership. Pics for brackets to come next week. im at the station the next 3 days and then have some family vacation duties, the build has taken longer then we expected so i will be running my daughter up to the central coast for a few days and then to bring her Arnold CA, to do some girl time camping for a week. so ill be on the road in the tight little subaru with her. im hoping to get all the work done by the 20th and then in for paint or powder. to get truck on the road for one more spurt up to eureka camping this time, to visit with son. ha, running out of time and money very qwk. wish me luck on this balance.Progress???
Looking for a few ideas:
1.- paint to color match truck or powder coat in satin black?.
2.- ideas for under body protection (inner bed will be rhino/linex)?.
3.- have the inside of compartments painted or powdered by painter or do myself with self-etching primer and roll on bed liner?.
4.- and the one thing that has been completely driving me crazy on a solution is the historical "chevy lean". it bothered me in the past, but now with the new bed its very pronounced to the leftside. even airing up the bags. theres gotta be a solution. thinking of taking to a suspension shop for there input, maybe add a leaf to left side. ideas?
hmmmm site isnt letting me post pics.....stay tuned
topofpalomar
Enthusiast
Quote: Looking for a few ideas:
1.- paint to color match truck or powder coat in satin black?.
2.- ideas for under body protection (inner bed will be rhino/linex)?.
3.- have the inside of compartments painted or powdered by painter or do myself with self-etching primer and roll on bed liner?.
4.- and the one thing that has been completely driving me crazy on a solution is the historical "chevy lean". it bothered me in the past, but now with the new bed its very pronounced to the leftside. even airing up the bags. theres gotta be a solution. thinking of taking to a suspension shop for there input, maybe add a leaf to left side. ideas?
shanz3&5:
Lookin' good!
My suggestions -
1. Color to match the truck.
2. Not sure on this one. Maybe Rhino-lining or regular under-body spray protection.
3. My utility bed is just painted factory color inside the compartments. Seems to be fine and no issues. I don't carry much in the way of heavy metal objects inside of it, tho. If I did I'd probably do a Rhino-lining in there.
4. Talk to a suspension shop. Many years ago I had an outfit in Escondido re-arc the leaf springs and add an additional leaf on my truck with a popup camper on it to avoid doing air bags. Worked fine except when I removed the camper. Then it really rode bad. I'm considering ditching my current air bags and doing that re-arc and add a leaf since I don't remove the camper. I'll get better wheel travel and not have to mess with air bags. A good shop can adjust the rear to eliminate the sag on one side. I don't notice any real lean on my Chevy but it may be attributed to the weight distribution. If it's leaning I'm not seeing it.
Keep up the good work. I like it.
1.- paint to color match truck or powder coat in satin black?.
2.- ideas for under body protection (inner bed will be rhino/linex)?.
3.- have the inside of compartments painted or powdered by painter or do myself with self-etching primer and roll on bed liner?.
4.- and the one thing that has been completely driving me crazy on a solution is the historical "chevy lean". it bothered me in the past, but now with the new bed its very pronounced to the leftside. even airing up the bags. theres gotta be a solution. thinking of taking to a suspension shop for there input, maybe add a leaf to left side. ideas?
shanz3&5:
Lookin' good!
My suggestions -
1. Color to match the truck.
2. Not sure on this one. Maybe Rhino-lining or regular under-body spray protection.
3. My utility bed is just painted factory color inside the compartments. Seems to be fine and no issues. I don't carry much in the way of heavy metal objects inside of it, tho. If I did I'd probably do a Rhino-lining in there.
4. Talk to a suspension shop. Many years ago I had an outfit in Escondido re-arc the leaf springs and add an additional leaf on my truck with a popup camper on it to avoid doing air bags. Worked fine except when I removed the camper. Then it really rode bad. I'm considering ditching my current air bags and doing that re-arc and add a leaf since I don't remove the camper. I'll get better wheel travel and not have to mess with air bags. A good shop can adjust the rear to eliminate the sag on one side. I don't notice any real lean on my Chevy but it may be attributed to the weight distribution. If it's leaning I'm not seeing it.
Keep up the good work. I like it.
