CV axle needs to be replaced...recommendations?
- Thread starter NorthernWoodsman
- Start date
NorthernWoodsman
Adventurer/tinkerer
$2,500.00/set?!?! Whoa!!! I'm sure they're really nice, but I think I'll have to stick with my little $200 Toyota axle for now.
01tundra
Explorer
Exactly, keep beefing up the outer, easy to replace parts, and you're actually just moving your weak link in, to deeper, more expensive parts.....ask me how I know
! I've set up R&P's in the field (literally) more than once and it's no where near as fun as a 20 minute CV axle swap.My question back to you is why would you need a "high angle" joint if you aren't exceeding the OEM joint capabilities. On the FJC the OEM inner handles over 13" of travel which is more than most long travel kits even offer (Total Chaos advertisments are off as well as Camburgs...neither offers their respective travel #s out of the box).
Still runs the OEM CV. Its just an extended shaft for the wider suspension with OEM inner and outer joints. I know on the FJC that same 3.5" kit doesn't yield 13" nor does their 2" kit offer 11.5" of travel.
RCV is a great company and they stand behind their products 100%. They will handle more angle than OEM, but don't anticipate a major gain and keep in mind the greater the angle you are at the reduced strength of the inner joint.
For those under the impression that the front differential will now break on your 4runner/taco/FJC with upgraded axles and joints, I suggest looking at the inner joint in more detail before jumping to that conclusion. Just another fyi the 9" differentials are handling all the power and travel the Ultra4 IFS setups are tossing at them without any major issues (much more travel and power). Most of these "expedition" vehicles running 8" front diffs in much less stressful environments with much less power....properly installed gear should be fine. Then again, there's always opportunity for improvement if not :ylsmoke:
01tundra
Explorer
I snapped the head off the factory pinion shaft of my '01 Tundra with stock CV's.
Predicting breakage is almost impossible due to all the variables. But I've seen enough bad breaks, including transfer case output shafts, to know that you need to keep all these things in mind when doing modifications. I always prefered to have my locking hubs be the weak link with a manual front end.
Then there's always the CTM super joints and chromoly axles that help make these little jewels.....
Predicting breakage is almost impossible due to all the variables. But I've seen enough bad breaks, including transfer case output shafts, to know that you need to keep all these things in mind when doing modifications. I always prefered to have my locking hubs be the weak link with a manual front end.
Then there's always the CTM super joints and chromoly axles that help make these little jewels.....
Wasn't refering to the tundra, but specifically FJC/Taco/4runner which run the same differential. I've shaved quite a few teeth of a 4 low gear set in a lefty without the OEM CVs flinching. That being said, I've yet to see folks tearing through their front diffs on a consistement basis (even those with RCVs). Even some of the Taco folks running 37s seem to be surviving fine on 8" front differentials and the 9" center has become the standard for the 4400 series IFS crowd (again much more power and loading go through those).
My point was, to say that you've now moved your "weak link" to the differential, is not neccessarily true. Take a close look at the inner 930 joint throughout travel on RCVs and you'll see what I'm refering to.
My point was, to say that you've now moved your "weak link" to the differential, is not neccessarily true. Take a close look at the inner 930 joint throughout travel on RCVs and you'll see what I'm refering to.
BMThiker
SE Expedition Society
I've only damaged my front R/P once and it was when the rear R/P failed on the trail and I drove it home in front wheel drive. It wasn't a catastrophic failure, but it was making a bad meshing noise.
So I cannot speak directly to the R/P failing before the CV does, if you install bomb-proof upgrade axles. I am speaking from my own self confidence based on my own wheeling style and trail-side repair knowledge. I've broken several OEM CV's and its always the outer cage and housing that has failed. The shaft has never broken, nor the tripod inner joint.
The last CV I installed was a cheap "FEQ" branded $99 axle assembly. After daily driving on it for a month and then snapping it in the first mud hole I got stuck in, I'm pretty convinced the outer housing was cracked before it was installed (probably a reman that got by QA/QC). The cracked pieces of the outer housing I was able to recover already had rust in them. So I ponied up for a Toyota axle and feel much more confident about it. My Toyota parts guy says they don't have OEM remans for the FJC yet, but they do for Tacos and 4R's. Not sure what the actual compatability really is between FJC v. Taco v. 4R.
So I cannot speak directly to the R/P failing before the CV does, if you install bomb-proof upgrade axles. I am speaking from my own self confidence based on my own wheeling style and trail-side repair knowledge. I've broken several OEM CV's and its always the outer cage and housing that has failed. The shaft has never broken, nor the tripod inner joint.
The last CV I installed was a cheap "FEQ" branded $99 axle assembly. After daily driving on it for a month and then snapping it in the first mud hole I got stuck in, I'm pretty convinced the outer housing was cracked before it was installed (probably a reman that got by QA/QC). The cracked pieces of the outer housing I was able to recover already had rust in them. So I ponied up for a Toyota axle and feel much more confident about it. My Toyota parts guy says they don't have OEM remans for the FJC yet, but they do for Tacos and 4R's. Not sure what the actual compatability really is between FJC v. Taco v. 4R.