D ring alternatives

[paracordkydex]

What kind of d rings are you guys using? How well do they work for side pulls? I have seen lots of d rings fail when pulled at an angle. I am considering using these instead. They are a little heavier but should be more reliable at work we use them to move and lift moulds that weigh up to 30 tons. http://unirope.com/rigging-hardware/jergens-center-pull-style-hoist-rings/



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[Maxcustody]

How did they fail?

Sent from my Roof Top Tent

 

[AFBronco235]

I don't use D-rings. I went with a set of frame mounted cast steel tow loops I got from a junkyard Expedition. These won't fail and pull just fine at an angle.

 

[Wandering by Bicycle]

I usually use regular D shackles, but I also carry a few sailing soft shackles. They obviously can't be used around sharp edges, but they work great in certain applications.



To be clear, no, this isn't my car, I'm just helping them out and there's more on how they got stuck Here

 

[AFBronco235]

I usually use regular D shackles, but I also carry a few sailing soft shackles. They obviously can't be used around sharp edges, but they work great in certain applications.

View attachment 273208

To be clear, no, this isn't my car, I'm just helping them out and there's more on how they got stuck Here

I believe the OP's question was more towards vehicle mounted recovery/tow points than shackles.

 

[I Leak Oil]

http://unirope.com/rigging-hardware/jergens-center-pull-style-hoist-rings/
View attachment 273173

We use them at work to lift our stamping dies as well. They work great for straight or slight angle pulls. I'd be concerned about any sort of side pull on them considering the bolt is weaker in shear than in tension. But...that's just a WAG on my part. I'd like to see some engineering data on it's ability to carry a load at different angles. I'd also be concern with environmental factors compromising it over time.

Then there is providing a sufficient mounting point to the vehicle to take it's rated load. Easy to do with a D-ring. Probably a little more involved with these.

.....and you still need something to connect these to your rope, strap or what ever since these cannot open to do so.

They are slick though.

 

[paracordkydex]

These would be used mainly to hook winches to and at our place we use them for extreme angles and the are designed to have at least a safety factor of 4


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[paracordkydex]

The d ring that I broke was being pulled on at about a 100* angle and it broke it stripped out the threads and twisted the shackle. I know your not supposed to pull like that but it was the last place to hook to.


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[gmwelder86]

Might want to read up on shackles and side loading

http://liftechniques.com/shack_loading_factors.html

If your pulling at 100 degrees you winch point would essentially be behind the bumper of the vehicle. Your asking an awful lot out of that piece of steel. Would invest in snatch blocks and use proper winch technique. Only other issue with what you posted is attachment points? Going to bolt it on? To what is it rated for that kind of stress and doing hard side pulls like that, what kind of stress is that putting on your shackle attachment points. Could see a side pull like that twisting your frame very easily.

 

[SlowJoe]

The D ring is only as good as what it is bolted to. I really don't see how a 30 ton ring is necessary for any passenger vehicle, but if they are available and make you happy then go for it! I use 3/4 shackles for any rigging I do around my house or pulling with vehicles. They are rated about 5 ton working load and I think are somewhere around 20 ton breaking strength. I know they all will vary a bit in their ratings, but this is roughly what could be expected from most any standard 3/4 shackle. No matter what it is hooked to on a normal vehicle, the weak point will ultimately be the frame and not the shackle. If you drive a Deuce, you may want to reconsider this line of thinking! Anyhow, for a shackle to fail is a VERY unusual thing. Maybe the pin came out somehow and caused the failure? Pins can unscrew if they are improperly rigged and when they come loose the load is unevenly distributed and will bend it. This is the only type of shackle failure I have ever seen. When using a shackle on a choker strap, it is very important to ALWAYS turn the shackle so that the pin is in the eye of the strap and the bow is on the running section. This way when the strap tightens and relaxes there is no chance of it unscrewing the pin. This is how the failure I saw happened. I used to be a commercial diver in the Gulf of mexico oil fields. We used rigging on a daily basis and I have assisted in rigging lifts over 1500 tons. Just for those interested, here is a short video showing one of the barges I used to work on: ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_L5bACL-kkI ) I was underwater one time while working on that barge and rigged a 3"wire rope sling to pull an old well casing. It failed when it had over 220 tons of force on it. That will get your attention!

Anyhow, in my old profession we broke a LOT of rigging. Big equipment, extreme environments and a cowboy attitude will go a long way towards destroying stuff. We broke chains, straps, cables, and ended up destroying 2 cranes due to various circumstances. Did I mention a cowboy attitude??? If it doesn't move then the answer of most oilfield barge hands is "Get up on it!!!". It certainly can be good for entertainment value, but can be really dangerous. Fortunately I was never around any serious rigging related injuries, but it was not for lack of trying on their part. Even with all the chaos, I have NEVER seen a shackle fail except for one that had the pin come loose like I mentioned earlier. I have seen them stretched and distorted a bit, but never failed. I know better than most people that I know, that ANYTHING can happen at any time but I would not waste much time worrying about shackles. Get one that is appropriate for your uses and make sure you are hooking it to a proper rigging point and it should be fine!

 

[AFBronco235]

I agree that the way a ring is attached is just as important as the ring itself. That's why I went with hard point tow loops instead of loose D-rings. They bolt in tight and were designed with all shear forces in mind. They also bolt directly to the frame, the strongest part on any framed vehicle, using two grade 8 bolts. They are very simple to install and frankly, hard to mess up on, unlike welding a D-ring shackle setup, which relies on a good weld to hold together.

As for why you'd need a 30 ton ring on a 2 ton vehicle, its simple. The only time you'll need only 2 tons of pulling force is on a flat surface with a slight incline. However, if you're stuck in a hole, with the tires buried up to the axles in mud, you'll need A LOT more force to pull it out, 5 to 6 times as much if not more. That does not include the payload on the vehicle, which can turn a 2 ton vehicle into a 3 ton quickly, which will need 15 tons of pulling force to free it, but that's only if its on a relatively even surface, add an incline and it can jump to 20-25 tons of pulling force. My point being, you want to ere on the side of bigger is better when it comes to recovery points and gear.

 

[paracordkydex]

by going of of this the load rating would only be reduced under extreme side pulls. The sizes that they come in go down to 10mm up to 3in so with proper planning you will be set up well. And since these have a safety factor of 5 a 3/4 in one can lift 5,000lbs but max breaking would be 25,000 and if you use 2 then you are really set for anything. I'm thinking of pairing These with a 20,000 hydraulic winch. Standard winch components don't apply at that point.


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