Death Valley Revisited

[Mauka2Makai]

Our latest adventure brought us back to Death Valley to experience Eureka Dunes, Dedeckera Canyon, Steele Pass, and Saline Valley Hot Springs. We traversed over 180 miles of some of the most remote, challenging, and washboarded roads we've ever traveled, starting at Death Valley road off of Ubehebe road and 3 days later ending at the 190 from South Pass of Saline Valley. We not only pushed our LC's capabilities, but our own comfort levels of traveling solo, and my wife was definitely pushed well beyond her comfort zone. At the end of every trail though, we were always rewarded... wether it was with sights of geological grander, a desert oasis, or the simple pleasure of black pavement after hours of washboard. With all we experienced, It may be some time till the wife and kids are ready to go back to Death Valley, but personally... I'm always looking for a window of opportunity to return. Enjoy our travels.

The boys all ready for the long drive to Eureka Dunes.

We stopped in at the new Death Valley Visitor Center for the latest in road conditions. FYI all roads we traveled were posted closed either by DV or Inyo county. It's a deterrent for the common tourist.

Death Valley road to Eureka Valley road to Eureka Dunes. ~43 miles and completed in just over an hour.

The road was actually in a very maintained condition even through the canyon, we averaged 33mph as per my track, only a couple of washouts to watch out for... watch your speed on those they sneak up on you.

We made it to our first destination... 8 hours later.:wings:

It was so nice to set up camp just off the base of Eureka Dunes. Wow there's even a fire pit and picnic table.

That night the sky was crystal clear with temperatures dipping into the teens. We were able to relax near the camp fire and stargaze the night away. Come morning our plan was to hike to the top of the dunes which stood nearly 700ft. pretty ambitious plan when hiking in sand with two young ones.

 

[Mauka2Makai]

One thing I love about Death Valley are the quiet nights...once the boys were asleep we were able to just relax and enjoy some alone time together next to the fire... I needed more than just quiet nights and campfires to get my wife back to DV. Leaving the hustle of a metropolis for pure isolation and seclusion in Death Valley has a certain healing and magnetic element for myself, for my wife and boys I had to "sell" them for a return trip. Last year one of our boys favorite spot was the Mesquite Flat Dunes, I promised them the highest dunes in all of California standing at nearly 700ft. For my wife I promised her an opportunity to finally be able to soak in one of California's finest hot springs and that it would be an oasis in DV. Waking that morning, the bone cracking chill from that night was still in effect, making for a difficult start of our day. As the sun started to rise the air was quickly warming, we started our hike up Eureka Dunes and we all agreed that it was utterly amazing.

The highest peak on the right is where we were able to make to with the young ones.

An untouched face... gently rippled, such a peaceful sight.

Taking a quick rest at just a quarter of the way up.

Hiking up with two young ones can pose a bit of a challenge... we went as far as they were comfortably able to hike on their own.

The youngest filled his pockets with as much sand as he could to bring back with him.

We set out with ambitions of hiking to the highest peak, we made it to just around a third of the way... the views were stunning none the less. A couple hours later we made it back to camp with a good portion of the dunes in our shoes and our boys pockets. With all that walking, we worked up a supreme appetite for lunch...we satisfied our hunger with chicken apple sauseges and then moved forward with the taking down of camp. As we were about to leave we chatted with a couple that just arrived to the dunes that traversed the same route we were about to embark... Steele Pass and Dedeckera canyon. They traversed it south to north making for a very long up hill climb through Steele Pass, but enabling a decent of the challenging and tight waterfalls in Dedeckera Canyon. We would be traveling the route north to south enabling the opposite of their travels, this is the recommended direction of travel to help minimize vehicle overtemps. The downfall is your faced with four waterfall ascends. During our conversations with the couple we just met, I think that the "talks of the trails" may have intimidated my wife and set her forth into a downward spiral of anxiety and uncertainty for fear of the LC breaking down (God forbid) and becoming stranded far from help. I did my best to assure my wife of our preparedness and to have confidence in my driving abilities and the LC's reliability and capabilities. Now that I've had some time to think about this and talk with my wife about it, it brings up a good question that I'll pose later in another section.

 

[Mauka2Makai]

We left Eureka Dunes just before one in the afternoon, we were all ready for a nice hot soak after our hike. First we would have to make it through Dedeckera Canyon and Steele Pass, roughly thirty miles of pure Death Valley backcountry fun. Fun for me, not necessarily for my wife... as the "trail talk" conversed earlier was still fresh in my wife's mind. We quickly realized that we both have two very different perceptions on what is "dangerous" and what's not. All differences have since been resolved, but it made for a long couple hours until Saline Valley started coming into view.

Back side of the Dunes.

Heading towards Dedeckera Canyon.

Time for Low range and locking of the diffs. My wife also chose to walk at this point.

This is the worst of the four waterfalls, photo is looking down. Tight squeeze at the bottom as well. Wish I had video... gives me a reason to return in the near future.

This one was ramped up pretty well.

The LC performed flawlessly throughout the canyon. Ready for Steele Pass.

Steep and off cambured... wife chose to walk down this portion as well.

Nothing like being top heavy on this portion.

Saline Valley middle portion of picture in the very far distance.

Another tight squeeze.

Coming across the burrows was a treat for all of us. Don't tell any one but they love baby carrots. :sombrero:

Peace Hill.

Three and a half hours later and roughly 30 miles traveled, we made it to Saline Valley Warm Springs. :wings: Aside from a couple tight squeezes, ramped ledges, off cambered hills, and miles of rocky trail completely isolated in Death Valley the route isn't that bad... my wife would definitely beg to differ though.

 

[Mauka2Makai]

As we traversed down from Steel Pass into Saline Valley Hot Springs we were greeted with Hello's from many a nude in the Palm Springs pool. What a sight:Wow1: having not seen a single soul in over three hours, to passing directly next to a spring full of seasoned soakers :snorkel:. We headed down to the lower pool to look for an area to set up camp and get our own soak on. We were definitely lucky to have the lower pool to ourselves for the next couple of days. Soaking in the nude is accepted here (nude just not lewd) and we are completely cool with that, thankfully we didn't have to explain to the boys why grown-ups were naked in the springs :Wow1: LOL. Our time here was as if we were staying at a retreat in the desert... a good time indeed.

We couldn't have asked for better weather... it warmed up significantly here in Saline Valley as compared to Eureka Dunes. We also had the lower springs all to ourselves.

Sunrise pool.

Our favorite pool was the crystal pool... shaded and very spacious.

3 desert coyotes looking for trouble. Two in the middle and one to the left of the bush.

Saline Valley Hot Springs is a true anomaly in the desert. I Love this place!

We fueled up, packed up, and as with all good times... eventually you have to head back home.

My Samsung Galaxy S3 in a Wilson Electronics 4g cell phone signal booster cradle using Tom Harrison's Death Valley map app. The GPS track along with the map worked seamless together, At no time did it ever leave us wondering where we were. I took this photo to show the signal strength that I had at the springs(dang it's blocked by glare)...nothing like having cell service in Death Valley. It's not an end all for communication though, signal was lost in the canyon and portions of Grapevine in South Pass.

At the bat pole. Didn't notice at the time, but anyone notice what's missing from the pole?

Saline Valley Salt Lake with salt trams.

The worst washboard I have ever driven. I bet my shocks were boiling.

Intersection for Lippincott road. Noticed the wheel was missing from the top of the rock cairn.

Heading out of Saline Valley through South Pass. Wow! the trail condition was significantly worse from a year earlier, lots of deterioration from flooding. My wife said it best..., "They really earn their soak driving out here". Seeing the 190 at a distance was a great sign of relief, from there it was the 395 and a long drive back home. My favorite question that my wife asked during our drive home was..."Why do we have to drive a hundred miles into the desert to camp?"

 

[peekay]

nice write-up. I've been to DV many times but have actually not been to the hot springs yet. Your post has inspired me to do so.

As for your wife's concerns, perhaps you can get a Spot and assuage her fears.

 

[mkitchen]

great report

I better count my blessings, Mo loves to travel back country.
Mikey

 

[EMrider]

Thanks for the detailed report and pics.

I'm heading into DV next month and will follow a similar route with the kids. It is very helpful to have a report with current road conditions, especially Steele Pass.

R

 

[concretejungle]

great write-up!! Thanks for sharing.

It almost looks like the hot springs is a resort! Water hoses, grass, benches... i'm assuming they are not a resort just out there for anyone who can make it out?

 

[BorregoWrangler]

Great write up and photos! I think this will help convince my wife to head out there sometime.

 

[JCMatthews]

Great write up.

 

[Guri]

Dear Mauka2Makai

Great report! Thanks for sharing it, What month did you go?

I have two kids and they look like the same age as your boys. We have a plan to visit DV as soon the weather is not too cold. So if you want to go again, maybe we can organize a weekend trip

We already have planned to visit Zion park in Utah for Easter 2013 vacation for a week. (march 23 -31) :bike_rider: :wings:



Dear EMrider

Are you going to go in winter time? Do you know what temp. it could get to in winter, we have never been there before.

 

[Mauka2Makai]

nice write-up. I've been to DV many times but have actually not been to the hot springs yet. Your post has inspired me to do so.
As for your wife's concerns, perhaps you can get a Spot and assuage her fears.

Glad to be of some inspiration... you'll enjoy the springs, just try to make there on a non holiday. I think that due to the extreme isolation of where we were it was having a affect on my wife... a motherly thing. We always travel as well prepared as we can, usually with an extra 7 days of food and water along with a SPOT and numerous other forms of emergency communications, spares, tools, self defense, etc.

Dear Mauka2Makai

Great report! Thanks for sharing it, What month did you go?

I have two kids and they look like the same age as your boys. We have a plan to visit DV as soon the weather is not too cold. So if you want to go again, maybe we can organize a weekend trip.

We were there the first week of December and it was very cold up at the Dunes (ice on the hood, tables, and water bottles frozen), but a lot warmer in Saline Valley. It'll probably be a while till the wife is ready for DV again. Here's a link for current weather conditions in Death Valley click on Morning Report.


Death Valley is a wonderful place for kids... just go well prepared, watch out for extreme heat or cold, and ideally go with another vehicle. Glad everyone's enjoying the thread.

 

[EMrider]

Dear EMrider

Are you going to go in winter time? Do you know what temp. it could get to in winter, we have never been there before.

I've explored DV with 3 kids every January around MLK weekend for the past 5 years.

That is my preferred time of year to visit because it is relatively empty, and I think DV is most beautiful when viewed at temps well below 100deg.

Weather (and road) conditions vary a lot so follow the link from Mauka2Makai for the latest info. I'd plan for overnight temps below freezing, but well above freezing during the days. Just follow Mauka2Makai's advice about going prepared and you'll be fine.

In a heavy snow winter, you won't be able to access Saline Valley hot springs except via Steele pass because both south and north pass of saline valley road will be under snow. I got stuck in deep snow on south pass three years ago and it was quite a challenge to get out. If there is snow, use Steele pass or just explore other areas of the park.

We always go in a group of 2-4 vehicles just in case something breaks in BFE.

FWIW, my wife is glad I do this with our kids, but has zero interest in joining us. Remote places are not her thing.


Have fun.
R

 

[ETAV8R]

Wonderful trip report and photos. Thanks for taking the time and effort to get it done.
The bat on Bat Rock Road has been off the pole for several months. Lee has it and is waiting for some assistance getting it back up there.
Dedeckera looks about the same. How was the road down to Steel Pass and the springs? I have read it is quite washed away after the storms in August.

p.s.
shhhh please dont feed those critters...lots of problems lately with yotes and asses stealing food at the springs.
:chowtime: