DEFENDER 110 Overland Build

[EIGHTLUG]

Hello,

I'm in the midst of getting a parts list together for our 110. The end product will be an overland capable DEFENDER 110, that will be able to transport our family of five. It's a 1984 RHD diesel 5 speed. I've decided to keep it RHD. The diesel...Well I haven't decided yet. It only shows 140K on the odometer but is in need of some work.
Right now I'm scouring the different parts websites, in search of a set of 5 wheels. Here's my first question. What size is optimum, when taking things into consideration like tire selection, diameter, load rating, durability, tread, fitment, etc. I'm open to using spacers. Not so much to changing gears in the diffs, at least not at this juncture.

This is the starting point:



This topic may have been covered before, but I wanted to start a build log to be able to find and reference the information.

 

[evilfij]

What is wrong with the wheels on it now?

 

[EIGHTLUG]

As far as I can visibly tell, nothing. I believe they are 16X7's. My question is, what's the optimum diameter, offset, material... Basically, whats the best I can equip it with for the task? Will the 16X7 wheels fit the best tire I would be able to fit in the wheel wells?

 

[evilfij]

Those are perfect for 255 85 R16 BFG MTs

A lot of people like "wolf" steel wheels, but the ones you already have have a bit more offset to keep the turning radius. I can't imagine you ever running into a load issue with the wheels on a 110. Even heavily laden they are not that heavy of a vehicle. A mild 2in lift is all I would do. OME makes springs.

I personally like 235 85 R16 which are stock on newer 110s on factory land rover rims. I prefer stock suspension, but if you carry a lot of weight and put on a bunch of armor and winch and bumper, OME are better.

 

[EIGHTLUG]

Thanks for the input. I did look at the late '90s Defender OEM wheels. Those can be had for relatively cheap. Armor, winch, roof rack, and essential are definitely going to be on board. So, 16" wheels would easily be more desirable than 18" ones, I'd assume. Is that the general consensus?

 

[evilfij]

Absolutely 16in over 18in. There are few 18in land rover wheels available and tire sizes in 16 are plentiful.

Personally, I would not go with a bigger tire than 33in (255 85R16 is about 33in) if you want to have any power with the tdi and stock gearing.

These things don't need much to go offroad well. Keep it basic and it will serve you well. Focus on mechanicals and rust before booting a lot of crap on.

 

[EIGHTLUG]

I had forgot to mention that my time frame for completing the project will be by the 2014 LRNR.

How robust are the stock axles on the Defender? I do plan on going through them. Seals, bearings, races, fluids, brakes. Am I spinning my wheels? Would it be more worthwhile to pull them out and go with something different?

Also, going back to the diesel, I believe it's the 2.5L 80HP variety. I'm sure it's pretty bulletproof. I have thought about swapping it out all together for a GM powertrain. What would you guys do? My reasoning would be that I could find small block Chevy parts in every po-dunk town in America, if need be. Stay wth the diesel and somehow beef it up or swap it out?

 

[Ray_G]

Axles are plenty robust, particularly the salisbury axle(s) that you likely have; of course all depends on intended application (i.e. if you're sticking in the 32-33" tire size you are fine, if you start going crazy then follow the path of toy conversions but I don't think that's applicable for your purposes.) A more pertinent question may be what you're happy with brake wise as it relates to the axles.

the 2.5NA is def not going to win you any land speed races but on the other hand I was with someone who just wheeled a heavily laden 110 with a 2.5NA throughout VOT and it did exceptionally well. If you're going SBC then you'll be doing a lot of work, if you want to stick with the Rover diesel I'd suggest considering a 200TDi swap. If you want to step outside of that, consider engaging Robert Davis about MB diesels but like the SBC that's going to be time, money, and customization to a degree.

Personally I'd lay out your requirements/desires in terms of wheeling capability, overlanding, etc and let that drive the cost/benefit of all your major areas such as the engine, drivetrain, suspension/tires, armor, accessories, etc. Budget always providing a good backdrop for that along with the nature compromises you have to reach when balancing a vehicle build.
r-

Ray

 

[EIGHTLUG]

Thanks Ray. I do plan on staying in the 33" realm. So, it sounds like a freshing up of the axles is a good route.

I'm actually a huge fan of diesel power. I'll look into the 200TDi swap. My goal is a Rubicon Trail capable 110 that's able to haul gear for two adults and three kids for a 4-5 day trek. I'd like to remain decent road manners, for a Defender.

As far as budget goes, I'm open to expensing out what it takes to get the job done. "Buy once cry once," that's my motto. I'm not saying I have an unlimited budget, but if the "need" is there, I can justify the cost. I'm hoping to have the project completed for under 30k. That's for everything. Rack, armor, interior appointments, lighting, drivetrain upgrades, etc.

 

[chris snell]

... The end product will be an overland capable DEFENDER 110, that will be able to transport our family of five.

It's already an overland-capable Defender 110 that can transport a family of five.

 

[EIGHTLUG]

Yeah it is, if you want to fly by the seat of your pants. In its current state I question its dependability, capability, range, livability. Those are the aspects of the vehicle I'd really want to improve. At the moment, it's a diesel powered shell on wheels that's in need of plenty of improvements.

 

[Ray_G]

So I think just doing the bearings, changing all the fluids, and the like will keep the axles serviceable-disc brake conversion could be something to consider depending on how far you want to go.

As-is the 2.5 is a robust, if underpowered, engine. Going to a TDi variant will give you a little more power but nothing like petrol. Personally I'd stick with a diesel especially if range is a desired attribute

Suspension wise as suggested by others I think if you go OME for a 2" lift you'll do all that really needs to be done suspension wise, and that mostly because of the protracted periods of laden travel. Some good rubber underneath (I'd keep the current wheels, and as suggested throw 255/85's under her)

Ergonomics/livability is a broad ranging subject, I'd look not just here for ideas but also get over to Defender Source if you're not there, particularly under the truck builds section.
r-
Ray

 

[EIGHTLUG]

Thanks again Ray. I've shot an email out to our local indy shop, inquiring about the 2/300 TDi swap. The range with the diesel is definitely key. I know I'll probably spend quite a bit getting the interior comfortable enough for a full day's trek.

Are there suggested vendors for mechanical parts? This being my first Defender build out, I'm pretty new to the game. I'd definitely tackle the disc brake swap and probably go ahead and replace everything from the pedal to the pads.

I spoke with the painter late yesterday and he should be able to take the rig on late October. The color I'm gong with is BMW URBAN GREEN. It's a special order color that's available on M3's and Z4's, I believe. A friend of mine painted his EVO that color after it was hail damaged. Personally, I love it and the lines of the Defender will wear that color well.

 

[North America Overland]

As far as budget goes, I'm open to expensing out what it takes to get the job done. "Buy once cry once," that's my motto. I'm not saying I have an unlimited budget, but if the "need" is there, I can justify the cost. I'm hoping to have the project completed for under 30k. That's for everything. Rack, armor, interior appointments, lighting, drivetrain upgrades, etc.

The approach I would take is first purchase the Land Rover Defender parts Catalogue part #stc9021cc. Then make a list of anything rubber like seals and bushings, anything electrical than can easily corrode and moving parts that can wear out. Break the list down into systems like brake, fuel, axles, steering etc. Then find the part numbers in the book and contact Rovers North http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/Products.aspx?code=WebHomePage&key=cat to order everything on the list. Only order genuine parts for the things on this list.
As for the drivetrain, I would source a complete 300tdi drivetrain and apply this same concept to it.
In the end you'll have a refurbished Rover and having ultimate confidence in your vehicle is the best modification of all.

 

[tacr2man]

You dont need to change that much , as Chris Snell was trying to convey . The basic vehicle is more than capable of doing prettywell anthing you need , you just need to take care of all the years of neglect and abuse that they get without proper maintenance . If you start modding , then you need to think thru how much you are going to change from what you originally purchased if for , eg that its a defender. Friends of mine recently drove a pretty stock 300tdi overland to Australia see here http://www.overlandwithkids.com/ .
The vehicle as stock is a pretty good balance of power, off road ability, etc if you do minor things they will stay reliable(when maintained) if you go major then the next thing in the chain will usually break . As advised 255/85 is about as far with existing power or drivetrain . 1 to 2 inch lift , more thru heavier duty springs than just lifting . With two adults and three kids , you will find gross weight will soon be reached for overlanding . Stay away from wheel spacers . Some things benefit from modernising others from retro engineering .
the 200tdi or 300tdi change is a good one . Good shocks are critical , as damping really affects the way the vehicle operates. Re rear brakes , the drums are perfectly adequate unless you do a lot of deep mud work , discs easier to maintain . Some on has not helped by fitting later style doors with the exterior plastic handles that have a tendency to freeze up in suitable conditions. Orinally it would have had a boge hyromat load leveller but that has probably been removed, which is pity as they were very effective but expensive. HTSH

ps nice colour choice , about halfway between the original landrover light green and deep bronze green