Desert Rigs: Ideas to help keep cool. Share

JIMBO

Expedition Leader
:sombrero: My '08 JKUR came with A/C and I've installed ARB OBA-

Since I've installed the hardtop insulation (previous post), I amost NEVER use the A/C and it's usually 95°, so it's gonna die or ATROPHY--

I do use the OBA all the time when camping and playing in the Sierras-I have a black hardtop, but you'd never knowit !

:costumed-smiley-007:wings: JIMBO
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
To get it to adhere the best, I would obviously wash first with soapy water. Then sand lightly, maybe 150-200grit...not doing a 100% job, just roughing it up a wee bit. Then wipe down with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits..rubbing alcohol is cheap when you can get 3 for 99cents at the dolor store:)

Anyway wipe it up real good..just buy some throw away terry cloth towels to wipe it down. Then paint away. A light sand, a good wipe with alcohol or mineral spirits & then paint. Easy peasy!
Thank you sir, I will have to take your advice.....
 

chilliwak

Expedition Leader
Lizard Skin is your friend. I've applied about 50 gallons of the stuff in various customer cars over the years. I love it.

If you want something to stick to aluminum...use aluminum primer and paint as an adhesion promoter. Scuff the paint, then apply the Lizard Skin, or sticky insulation stuff of your choice. Any local paint supplier should have the primer & paint for aluminum. Any real sign shop could also get it for you...not the decal sign shops, but the real sign fab shops that create signs. 95% of commerical signs are bare aluminum that has been welded, sanded, primed, and painted.

Thank you on this additional info....... Primer sounds like a good idea.....
 

digdug18

New member
First off, paint the exterior of your roof white or a light color. I'd also drop your headliner and add some thermal insulation mat to the roof, that will stop the heat from above. Tinting your windows will help eliminate the sun from heating your interior some, but not enough to really count. You will notice that the tint helps you from getting a truckers tan and keeps the interior from fading. I'd go whole hog though if I were you on it, drop the exhaust, ceramic coat it, as well as wrap it with heat or header wrap. Coat the exhaust tunnel with the reflective stick on heat material as well, from the underside of the car. Pull the seats and the carpet, install the thermal insulation mat to the floor of the car, then replace the carpet and seats. You'll notice that your car is quieter, you'll hear the audio better, and your car will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

I use second skin products, though they are pricey.

http://secondskinaudio.com/index.php/products/thermal-insulation-mats/heat-wave-pro-detail
 

Erik N

Adventurer
That is interesting about the perforated shade cloth being more effective than a light-colored tarp. I use a silver tarp for shade on my fishing trailer, but I can feel the heat underneath it, even in a stiff breeze. I may think about changing it out.

Anyone else have an input on that?

Pic:
 

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FellowTraveler

Explorer
That is interesting about the perforated shade cloth being more effective than a light-colored tarp. I use a silver tarp for shade on my fishing trailer, but I can feel the heat underneath it, even in a stiff breeze. I may think about changing it out.

Anyone else have an input on that?

There is a ton of information about this on web, I admit I was apprehensive at first when I learned of it long ago after using it extremes from desert to tropics I'm sold.
 

Erik N

Adventurer
So we're talking about the black mesh material, right?

Another advantage would be that it would be less likely to fly away in a breeze. The 8x20 tarp I use acts like a huge wing if the breeze blows across the long dimension.
 

FellowTraveler

Explorer
So we're talking about the black mesh material, right?

Another advantage would be that it would be less likely to fly away in a breeze. The 8x20 tarp I use acts like a huge wing if the breeze blows across the long dimension.

Yes, the black mesh screening 90/95% type. When going big I'd carry tent stakes or the sand/screw stakes/anchors (military surplus) when in places like in your picture where peace and tranquility frequent!
 

wjeeper

Active member
The older land rovers had a double layer top with a air space.

1966%u00252B66%2BLand%2BRover%2BSeries%2BIIa%2BII%2Ba%2BSUV%2B4%2BDoor%2BLong%2BWheel%2BBase%2BL.jpg

My Wrangler has a black hard top and putting a roof top tent up there really helped keep it cooler inside. The tent acted a lot like the safari top. I also need to tint the windows a bit to keep the greenhouse effect down a bit more.
 

Containerized

Adventurer
Yeah. A white roof plus hood vents plus a larger radiator was the answer on my FJ (this is in South Sudan in the summertime... think 110F+ ambient constantly...).
 

88Xj

Banned
It gets that hot here. My new motor is higher compression, tighter quench, and will probably run quite a bit hotter. Thinking ill be running my Taurus fan again vs going back to mechanical, as well as the updated 12 curved blade fan from the 97+ Cherokees. Thinking of a single core radiator....
My logic over the 3 core is that it holds more fluid so once heated will also take longer to cool, and it will have less air flow through it being thicker. While the smaller single core will flow more air this keeping it cooler I hope, also easier to cool down once hot because its not got as much fluid.

I have hood vents ready to go on. Roof will be paint in Henry's ceramic white, rest of the jeep going flat tan. 35% tent on all windows except rear hatch, windshield and front doors. Those will go 50%. And ill be keeping my ac vs going OBA with it.
 

tacr2man

Adventurer
It gets that hot here. My new motor is higher compression, tighter quench, and will probably run quite a bit hotter. Thinking ill be running my Taurus fan again vs going back to mechanical, as well as the updated 12 curved blade fan from the 97+ Cherokees. Thinking of a single core radiator....
My logic over the 3 core is that it holds more fluid so once heated will also take longer to cool, and it will have less air flow through it being thicker. While the smaller single core will flow more air this keeping it cooler I hope, also easier to cool down once hot because its not got as much fluid.

I have hood vents ready to go on. Roof will be paint in Henry's ceramic white, rest of the jeep going flat tan. 35% tent on all windows except rear hatch, windshield and front doors. Those will go 50%. And ill be keeping my ac vs going OBA with it.

Your logic doesnt work , its a mixture of surface area , and temperature differential and airflow . more surface area is better , and then try and make sure you get the requisite flow , at lower speeds , at higher speeds the problem should go away unless the cooling area or airflow is being decreased . JMHO

ps what have you got in the way of oil cooler/ coolers
 

sctracker

Observer
Aluminum single core radiators often cool much better than the old brass/copper 2 or 3 core ones. Because the aluminum is much sturdier than the brass/copper, the cores are often much bigger(sometimes over 1.5") allowing a more turbulent higher flow and greater volume of water. Try these guys to see if they have a direct replacement. http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.cfm Also for an informative read on radiators and cooling check this out http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/#GriffinThermalProductsKingoftheHammersRadReview
 

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