rayra
Expedition Leader
Experimenting with the roof rack deck modifications and panel and power port layouts.
I threw the removed deck panels back on the roof, then set the folding panel on top. The panel itself is 42-7/8" long, sands latches and handle. The roof rack spacing is 44"
Fits real nice, except for the hand and latches, but I can modify those. But the large shape of the rear rack footings is in the way, pushing the panel about a foot further forward, to fit.
Not a deal killer, but it gets a little awkward when you're standing on the rear bumper.
I tried it lengthwise, too. That lets me get it much closer to the rear crossbar but also puts the nose far away and for my envisioned removable mount design it's a bit problematic. More so if I manage to incorporate a TV mounting arm to make the panel deployable and positionable.
I'm working up the MkII deck, seeking to ameliorate some wind noise. And along the way improve the fitment. Looking to extend the nose of the deck much closer to the sunroof and beyond the start of the roof luggage rails. That will better aid the stuffing of closed-cell pipe insulation to close the front gap as the rails will be behind the foam instead of under it. And will thus help hold the foam forward.
I'm extending the center point of the deck 4" and the outer edges at least an inch, maybe more if I decide to fit it around a scallop in the footprint of the roof rack front end.
The deck boards were just sitting on the roof. With their mounting crossbraces installed their top surface sits about even with the bottom of the bolt slot in the rack side rails. And thus only 3/4" below the top edge. That's a compromise for an air gap below the deck, for its primary purpose (shading the Sub) and the need to access that slot for the mounting. So the panel depth is 1-1/2". Plus the thickness of the plastic corner caps. Plus the thickness of the L-angle extrusions I intent to use for a panel mounting frame. Plus the need for some cushioning material in the trapping of the removable panel. Altogether at least 1-3/4" is not more. Anything over 3/4" projects above the side rail of the rack. Can't be helped. I'll paint the panel mounting frame the same satin black as the roof rack rails, to aid in the camoflaging
I'm thinking to make a frame that bolts to the deck, which the solar panel is socketed into, locked into. I can make most of it from L-angle aluminum extrusions. And will probably put a sloped nose on it. The panel would be socketed into the nose, laid down in the frame and have the hinged rear flange folded over the rear edge of the panel and be locked to the bottom half of the frame with some flush hood locks. That would trap the panel in place and secure it. And the frame would be painted to blend in. From the ground it wouldn't be very visible and give no clue what's in it.
The rear footing of the rack is a a bulky thing. It's mostly a hollow plastic cap over a blocky cubist substructure which bolts to the roof and in turn has the side rails and end airfoil and roller brace bolted to it. It's been noticed elsewhere that it was obviously designed to house some rear-facing ~3" round lights - which mine will, some day. Anyway that footing can be heavily modified without much detriment. I intend to route some power thru it for some roof rack mounted area lights and for connecting the solar panel. The footer is more than large enough to use something like a 12v marine-style power receptacle.
I'm shopping around now for various marine and solar-style water resistant bulkhead connectors. I might go with a 12v receptacle on the outside of each rear footer and go with a smaller MC4-style connector on the inner face above the deck for connecting the panel on the roof.
I'm also considering the idea of heavily skeletonizing the frame of the folding panel itself, as a ventilation method. But being nestled in a frame that might be moot. Just know how blisteringly hot it gets up there.
Also considering dismounting the controller from the panel and putting it in the vehicle. But maybe making it mobile as well, so if the panel is ever used away from teh vehicle the controller can go with it. I always intended to mount the / a controller in the lid of the power module in the cargo area of the Sub. I can APP pigtail all the things and rearrange parts as needed.
I threw the removed deck panels back on the roof, then set the folding panel on top. The panel itself is 42-7/8" long, sands latches and handle. The roof rack spacing is 44"
Fits real nice, except for the hand and latches, but I can modify those. But the large shape of the rear rack footings is in the way, pushing the panel about a foot further forward, to fit.
Not a deal killer, but it gets a little awkward when you're standing on the rear bumper.
I tried it lengthwise, too. That lets me get it much closer to the rear crossbar but also puts the nose far away and for my envisioned removable mount design it's a bit problematic. More so if I manage to incorporate a TV mounting arm to make the panel deployable and positionable.
I'm working up the MkII deck, seeking to ameliorate some wind noise. And along the way improve the fitment. Looking to extend the nose of the deck much closer to the sunroof and beyond the start of the roof luggage rails. That will better aid the stuffing of closed-cell pipe insulation to close the front gap as the rails will be behind the foam instead of under it. And will thus help hold the foam forward.
I'm extending the center point of the deck 4" and the outer edges at least an inch, maybe more if I decide to fit it around a scallop in the footprint of the roof rack front end.
The deck boards were just sitting on the roof. With their mounting crossbraces installed their top surface sits about even with the bottom of the bolt slot in the rack side rails. And thus only 3/4" below the top edge. That's a compromise for an air gap below the deck, for its primary purpose (shading the Sub) and the need to access that slot for the mounting. So the panel depth is 1-1/2". Plus the thickness of the plastic corner caps. Plus the thickness of the L-angle extrusions I intent to use for a panel mounting frame. Plus the need for some cushioning material in the trapping of the removable panel. Altogether at least 1-3/4" is not more. Anything over 3/4" projects above the side rail of the rack. Can't be helped. I'll paint the panel mounting frame the same satin black as the roof rack rails, to aid in the camoflaging
I'm thinking to make a frame that bolts to the deck, which the solar panel is socketed into, locked into. I can make most of it from L-angle aluminum extrusions. And will probably put a sloped nose on it. The panel would be socketed into the nose, laid down in the frame and have the hinged rear flange folded over the rear edge of the panel and be locked to the bottom half of the frame with some flush hood locks. That would trap the panel in place and secure it. And the frame would be painted to blend in. From the ground it wouldn't be very visible and give no clue what's in it.
The rear footing of the rack is a a bulky thing. It's mostly a hollow plastic cap over a blocky cubist substructure which bolts to the roof and in turn has the side rails and end airfoil and roller brace bolted to it. It's been noticed elsewhere that it was obviously designed to house some rear-facing ~3" round lights - which mine will, some day. Anyway that footing can be heavily modified without much detriment. I intend to route some power thru it for some roof rack mounted area lights and for connecting the solar panel. The footer is more than large enough to use something like a 12v marine-style power receptacle.
I'm shopping around now for various marine and solar-style water resistant bulkhead connectors. I might go with a 12v receptacle on the outside of each rear footer and go with a smaller MC4-style connector on the inner face above the deck for connecting the panel on the roof.
I'm also considering the idea of heavily skeletonizing the frame of the folding panel itself, as a ventilation method. But being nestled in a frame that might be moot. Just know how blisteringly hot it gets up there.
Also considering dismounting the controller from the panel and putting it in the vehicle. But maybe making it mobile as well, so if the panel is ever used away from teh vehicle the controller can go with it. I always intended to mount the / a controller in the lid of the power module in the cargo area of the Sub. I can APP pigtail all the things and rearrange parts as needed.