Disassembling weatherproof plug?
- Thread starter TexasTJ
- Start date
Victory_Overland
Explorer
I seem to remember fishing mine through with no issue but you have to send one connector through at a time. With that said, what you have is called a DELPHI connector. There are about 2 million types of DELPHI connectors so I apologize that I do not remember the exact type. Anywho, you can make your tool out of a pen by pulling the ink stick out (the brass thing) and cutting it without crimping it. Usually, they fit over most automotive 18-22 gauge wires if I remember correctly.
If not, go to the local auto parts store as they usually have these laying around in many forms and they are relatively cheap and good to have laying around for this stuff. (Photos attached below)
1) If you look at the connector (it should say DELPHI on it), here is a hinge. Then make a wiring diagram, so you know where they go back in.
2) On each side of the connector is a hinge clip (SEE RED ARROWS). Use a small screwdriver or knife to pop each side open, and the hinge will swing open exposing the wires and pins. Careful not to break the hinge as this is what double locks the pins inside.
3) Once the hinge is open, there are a few silicon weather seals that pull down off the wires. Keep the seals on the wires as it's common to forget them until you have the connector reassembled. You can pull them further down the wires to get them out of the way.
4) Take your tool and insert it lightly from the connector side as if you were plugging it in. The cylinder tool will slide over the male connector pin, and it will depress "Both" locks on each side of the pin. If you have a tiny jeweler screw driver, it is possible to reach the pin lock one at a time with slight pulling pressure applied on the back of the wire so the cylinder too is not required but much easier.
5) The tool will go all the way in until it stops (Insert over the pin in direction of the GREEN arrow). Use the diameter cylinder tool that fits closest to the size of the pin diameter. Once it stops, lightly pull on the back of the wire, and it will come out. If it does not come out, push the wire firmly back into the connector from the back, then reapply pressure to the tool to ensure the tool seats over the pin locks. Sometimes the pin locks get stuck in the plastic connector body so its important to see if the connector pins wiggle a bit before you put the tool in or you could break the pin.
6) The tool is NOT required for reassembly
7) If this doesn't work, PM me and I'll make you a video and email it. I have access to my connectors now with my interior out.
Attachments
Last edited:
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
TE (Tyco) is probably the largest supplier of connectors to the automotive world. Their brands are Amp, Faston and Deutsch mainly. It's possible that Rover uses them. Otherwise it's Amphenol/FCI, Molex, JST, Delphi or Hirose.
Figuring out what brand and series they used would take some sleuthing. Once you do there is a proper $400 extraction tool that works about 83.6% of the time without breaking anything.
Most of the time you don't have the right one and collecting them all is not only impossible it's costly unless you work for Rover or a dealer. So everyone just uses whatever tool they have that fits pretty close. Lacking that you use a thin blade such as Verkstand mentions.
Figuring out what brand and series they used would take some sleuthing. Once you do there is a proper $400 extraction tool that works about 83.6% of the time without breaking anything.
Most of the time you don't have the right one and collecting them all is not only impossible it's costly unless you work for Rover or a dealer. So everyone just uses whatever tool they have that fits pretty close. Lacking that you use a thin blade such as Verkstand mentions.