Does anyone know what's the fording spec for a stock NAS Discovery II?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGFmZQzuVAI&NR=1
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGFmZQzuVAI&NR=1
Discovery II water crossing - how deep can I go?
- Thread starter Christian P.
- Start date
TeriAnn
Explorer
2aroundtheworld said:
I'm sure its listed in the owner's manual.
The OBDII and newer vehicles that do not have distributors on the engine use a device called a crank position sensor to tell the computer when to send out sparks. These sensors are located alongside the engine crank just above the oil pan and get quite warm from the engine heat. If you immerse a hot Land Rover crank sensor suddenly into cold water there is a tendency for the sensor to break. A distributorless engine with a broken crank position sensor will not start without a new sensor.
Fording upstream in a river, I once passed a '97 D90 that was sinking stern first into the loose bottom. The D90 broke a crank angle sensor during the ford and came to a stop in about 3 feet of water. I couldn't stop my 1960 Land Rover Dormobile because it was all the 2.25L engine could do to get through that section of river without stalling and sinking too. Luckily there was a 101 in the group that rescued the D90 and towed it to the nearest motel. The D90 sat at the motel through the weekend and until a dealer could mail a new sensor to the motel.
The moral to the story is if you are driving an electronically controlled engine, be sure to identify all the components that are required for the engine to proceed in limp home mode or better and carry a spare for each of those components. And if you have a crank angle sensor and plan on wading, you might wish to carry multiple spares of that component.
Also, if you have a petrol engine equipped with a crank sensor be sure not to exceed the manufacturer's stated max wading depth without a spare sensor, tools and knowledge to replace it, a tow vehicle and a tow strap with one end already attached to your vehicle. :snorkel:
Scott Brady
Founder
I performed several moderate crossings with my 2001. Overall, I avoided deep water. (except for that one time on the Gila River)
As TeriAnne mentioned, the electronics can be an issue, so I would use 24" as a rough guide, and only for short crossings.
As TeriAnne mentioned, the electronics can be an issue, so I would use 24" as a rough guide, and only for short crossings.
Sharkman
Observer
20 inches. It is obvoiusly possible to go deeper with modifications and proper technique. I second the bring a spare crankshaft position sensor comment. I don't think mine failed bacause of a water crossings but I did replace it at 100K miles. There is no limp home without it so it is a must to carry as a spare. It is easy to change and can be done on the trail in a couple of minutes.
From the DII owners manual:
WADING
The maximum advisable wading depth is
20 inches (0,5 m).
Severe electrical damage may occur if the
vehicle remains stationary for any length of
time when the water level is above the door
sills.
If the depth of water is likely to exceed 20
inches (0,5 m), the following precautions
should be observed:
•Fix a plastic sheet in front of the radiator
grille to prevent water from soaking the
engine and mud from blocking the radiator.
•Remove the CD autochanger*.
•Ensure that the silt bed beneath the water is
free of obstacles and firm enough to
support the vehicle's weight and provide
sufficient traction.
•Ensure that the engine air intake is clear of
the water level.
•Select a low gear and maintain sufficient
throttle to prevent the engine from stalling.
This is particularly important if the exhaust
pipe is under water.
•Drive slowly into the water and accelerate to
a speed which causes a bow wave to form;
then maintain that speed.
At all times, keep all the doors fully closed.
After wading
•Immediately after wading, remove any
protective covering from in front of the
radiator grille.
•Drive the vehicle a short distance and apply
the foot brake to check that the brakes are
fully effective.
•DO NOT rely on the parking brake to hold the
vehicle stationary until the transmission has
thoroughly dried out; in the meantime, leave
the vehicle with the gearbox selector moved
to park (‘P’).
•If the water was particularly muddy, remove
any blockages (mud and leaves) from the
radiator to reduce the risk of overheating.
•If deep water is regularly negotiated, check
all oils for signs of water contamination -
contaminated oil can be identified through
its ‘milky’ appearance. In addition, check the
air filter element for water ingress and
replace if wet - consult a Land Rover dealer
if necessary.
•If salt water is frequently negotiated,
thoroughly wash the underbody
components and exposed body panels with
fresh water.
NOTE: Vehicles required to undergo frequent or
deep wading conditions will require more
frequent servicing. Contact a Land Rover dealer
for advice.
From the DII owners manual:
WADING
The maximum advisable wading depth is
20 inches (0,5 m).
Severe electrical damage may occur if the
vehicle remains stationary for any length of
time when the water level is above the door
sills.
If the depth of water is likely to exceed 20
inches (0,5 m), the following precautions
should be observed:
•Fix a plastic sheet in front of the radiator
grille to prevent water from soaking the
engine and mud from blocking the radiator.
•Remove the CD autochanger*.
•Ensure that the silt bed beneath the water is
free of obstacles and firm enough to
support the vehicle's weight and provide
sufficient traction.
•Ensure that the engine air intake is clear of
the water level.
•Select a low gear and maintain sufficient
throttle to prevent the engine from stalling.
This is particularly important if the exhaust
pipe is under water.
•Drive slowly into the water and accelerate to
a speed which causes a bow wave to form;
then maintain that speed.
At all times, keep all the doors fully closed.
After wading
•Immediately after wading, remove any
protective covering from in front of the
radiator grille.
•Drive the vehicle a short distance and apply
the foot brake to check that the brakes are
fully effective.
•DO NOT rely on the parking brake to hold the
vehicle stationary until the transmission has
thoroughly dried out; in the meantime, leave
the vehicle with the gearbox selector moved
to park (‘P’).
•If the water was particularly muddy, remove
any blockages (mud and leaves) from the
radiator to reduce the risk of overheating.
•If deep water is regularly negotiated, check
all oils for signs of water contamination -
contaminated oil can be identified through
its ‘milky’ appearance. In addition, check the
air filter element for water ingress and
replace if wet - consult a Land Rover dealer
if necessary.
•If salt water is frequently negotiated,
thoroughly wash the underbody
components and exposed body panels with
fresh water.
NOTE: Vehicles required to undergo frequent or
deep wading conditions will require more
frequent servicing. Contact a Land Rover dealer
for advice.
Desertoutpost
Adventurer
Like a proud parent I read that last post. I love the fact my Landie comes with this topic covered in the owners manual. I'm not saying that other vehicles are not more well equiped, but just like the fact it was something worth mentioning in my manual! Just made me feel all warm and fuzzy inside!! 
Thanks, this is really useful information.
I am thinking of getting another Discovery II here in SF as our second vehicle.
I had one before and really miss it.
I submerged my Toyota TroopCarrier well over the hood in Australia, but being a diesel with no electronic whatsoever I had zero issue.
I suspected that I would not be able to do the same with a Discovery, but I did not know about the cam sensor.
I am thinking of getting another Discovery II here in SF as our second vehicle.
I had one before and really miss it.
I submerged my Toyota TroopCarrier well over the hood in Australia, but being a diesel with no electronic whatsoever I had zero issue.
I suspected that I would not be able to do the same with a Discovery, but I did not know about the cam sensor.
nvprospector
Adventurer
Hello all, been out and about for a while but i am now back.
You can take a petrol d2 pretty deep in the water if you keep a bow wave in front of the rig. A good size bow wave will keep water out of your engine compartment, so don’t stop.
You can not go as deep as a Diesel but with proper prep work you can pretty darn deep if you don’t mind a wet interior. When getting ready to go deep you need to look at how often you will be going under. If it is a minor crossings every now and then, just keep your bow wave and add duct tape to the bottom of you door seals where the two halves meet. Just that little trick will keep water out of the cab for a little longer.
If you are doing a lot of water crossings you can extend your BCU, ECU, ABS and many other computers to the back roof and mount the computers above the barn door. The biggest issue was the coil packs. When they get wet the d2 bucks like a mule for a few miles. What a friend did was move the coil pack to the inside of the cab and got the firewall feed-thru from MSD http://www.msdignition.com/coil_acc_3.htm. This allowed him to go a little deeper for a little longer.
But here is a picture I found of some one in a d2 doing a deep water crossing. He did say that it did run after the crossing, but really poorly until it dried out.
View attachment 10688
So have fun
You can take a petrol d2 pretty deep in the water if you keep a bow wave in front of the rig. A good size bow wave will keep water out of your engine compartment, so don’t stop.
You can not go as deep as a Diesel but with proper prep work you can pretty darn deep if you don’t mind a wet interior. When getting ready to go deep you need to look at how often you will be going under. If it is a minor crossings every now and then, just keep your bow wave and add duct tape to the bottom of you door seals where the two halves meet. Just that little trick will keep water out of the cab for a little longer.
If you are doing a lot of water crossings you can extend your BCU, ECU, ABS and many other computers to the back roof and mount the computers above the barn door. The biggest issue was the coil packs. When they get wet the d2 bucks like a mule for a few miles. What a friend did was move the coil pack to the inside of the cab and got the firewall feed-thru from MSD http://www.msdignition.com/coil_acc_3.htm. This allowed him to go a little deeper for a little longer.
But here is a picture I found of some one in a d2 doing a deep water crossing. He did say that it did run after the crossing, but really poorly until it dried out.
View attachment 10688
So have fun