DIY long range fueltank

thijs404

New member
I'm going to make my own dieseltank out of Stainless steel for my unimog camper. Tank dimensions will be LxWxH: 1.50x47x32 cm (maximum available space).
The suction will be from dead centre and from 2 cm lower than the rest of the tank.
The thing I'm worried about is that I won't always have enough fuel in the tank to reach the suction pipe (which is 75cm (or 30 inches) from the ends) when going up or down hill.
Does anyone have ideas on how to prevent this?

Nicest would be to have 1 suction point at the front and 1 at the back. But I don't know if a system exists that prevents air from being suct into the main fuel line when 1 of the 2 does not get any fuel? Can't find anything on the web about the existence of such system...
 

MotoDave

Explorer
Holley recently came out with a fuel pickup mat that claims that if any part of it is submerged it win't suck in air. I have no firsthand experience:
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/hydramat/

Alternately I'd add some baffles inside the tank. If you want to get really fancy build in some one way flapper valves that allow fuel to sloch into the center part of the tank where the pickup is, but not out to the corners.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Baffles will solve the OP's baffling problem.

OP, look at transfer tank designs and racing fuel tanks. The problem you are concerned with has been long solved, in many ways. And you need a bigger sump or sloped bottom, such that any severe temporary change in angle isn't starving your pump / pickup.
 

pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
That Holley HydraMat is very cool technology. If you have the room, a sump and baffles will work well too. Make sure your tank is vented properly or it will spit out the filler tube when fueling.
 

thijs404

New member
Thanks for thinking with me and all the suggestions! The tank will get 4 baffles, giving it 5 compartments of 30x47 cm each. The most commonly used spacing of the baffles seems to be between 25 and 35 cm ( as far as I can find on the web ). At the moment I have a very small sump design, if it turns out I'm getting fuel starvation problems because of it I will make a bigger sump or maybe a swirlpot type solution. As it is now the tank is already the lowest point on the truck. And since the sump is almost at the centre between the wheels I would like to try not to lose more ground clearance.

Might even try baffle foam ( used in racing fuel tanks ) but is expensive. And it's not really the sloshing I'm worried about but not having enough fuel to go long runs up or down mountain. P.s. I'm from The Netherlands and I still have to discover what a hill/mountain is... 

It will get 3 air vents. 1 aft, 1 in the middle and a self venting fillercap in the front. This should be more then enough. But better to much then to little ;)

That hydramat solution would be perfect I think. Had a look into them but they are not compatible with diesel fuel.
 
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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
I just went through the same design process you are and had the same concerns. I am mounting the tank inside the frame rails. The tank I am using was designed for a boat. The shape is long and not very tall. My solution was two tanks; a large storage tank (60 gals) and a smaller fuel cell to supply the engine. When the supply tank runs low, I will pump additional fuel from the large storage tank.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
yes, a holding or transfer tank is a good solution, and for prolonged use in the boonies I think it would be wiser not to have all the fuel in one big tank anyway, in case of a puncture.
 

doug720

Expedition Leader
I agree with having 2 tanks being a good idea. Besides the listed reason of a leak, you can top off one tank while keeping the other full in areas of questionable fuel quality.

In my 60 Series LandCruiser, I have the stock 24 gallon tank and a 17 gallon saddle tank I imported from AU. Both tanks have separate supply and return lines, controlled by 2 separate valves - supply and return.

The tank is about 54" L X 15" W X 15" H with a few tapers and has 3 baffles. The pick up point has a collection point about 1.5" lower and approximately 8" square with some sort of internal baffle around this point. There are two drain plugs, one at tank bottom and one at the collection bottom.

Having 41 gallons is very nice and gives us an easy 700 mile range with a 100 mile reserve.
 
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pappawheely

Autonomous4X4
Thanks for thinking with me and all the suggestions! The tank will get 4 baffles, giving it 5 compartments of 30x47 cm each. The most commonly used spacing of the baffles seems to be between 25 and 35 cm ( as far as I can find on the web ). At the moment I have a very small sump design, if it turns out I'm getting fuel starvation problems because of it I will make a bigger sump or maybe a swirlpot type solution. As it is now the tank is already the lowest point on the truck. And since the sump is almost at the centre between the wheels I would like to try not to lose more ground clearance.

Might even try baffle foam ( used in racing fuel tanks ) but is expensive. And it's not really the sloshing I'm worried about but not having enough fuel to go long runs up or down mountain. P.s. I'm from The Netherlands and I still have to discover what a hill/mountain is... 

It will get 3 air vents. 1 aft, 1 in the middle and a self venting fillercap in the front. This should be more then enough. But better to much then to little ;)

That hydramat solution would be perfect I think. Had a look into them but they are not compatible with diesel fuel.

Race cars that run nitrous and/or turbos sometimes run a surge tank to supply fuel when the engine demands more than the pump can deliver. Much smaller than a full size tank, it may be a good solution for extreme angles. Running your pump dry is bad; making sure that you have a constant supply of fuel is important.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tT...HLdw8Yc_fA1MG6yUwi9fRk3eDgjsRY9tqsKnBzhll3lw_
 

thijs404

New member
Thanks for all the input!
Just found out that the tank design I have now is the one I'm stuck with. I actually had not planned to build this tank for atleast another year or so. However, I was having a "few" beers with a friend and spitballing ideas about it recently and he offered to make me one at material cost. I immediatly accepted his offer ofcourse and a case of bear for his troubles! Unfortunately for me he informed me that he was leaving his company end of this month to seek his fortune elsewhere and then he would not have the needed equipment available anymore.

Ofcourse as always with this sort of thing I had to go to Singapore for work within days after our night out on the town. So the next day (ignoring the huge hangover) I pulled out and dismantled the old tank and gave him all the fittings. None of it will be reused as it turns out.. I had also done the measurements of the available space for the tank and we made a quick draft in autocat. I flew to singapore the next day which made researching, discussing design alterations with my friend, parts ordering etc. Quite challenging... The 7 hour time difference doesn't help either...

Anyway, very long story short... He sent me a messsage today that all the fittings have arrived, the cutting template is ready and that the sheet metal will be cut out somewhere next week :)

Picture of cutting template:
IMG-20160308-WA0000.jpg
This is not the detailed one and some alterations have been made afterwards (including some extra baffles) but it will give you an idea.
The tank's shell (or whatever it's called..) will be cut out in one piece and then folded together so there will be only one weld running across the length of the tank.

All going well the tank should be ready and waiting for me when I get back home somewhere next month. It's not perfect and given time and I might have done it another way but in any case I learned a lot and was fun to do :)
Currently the unimog still sitting in a shed with half the engine dismantled, oil leaks from engine, gearbox and axles but hope I to have it ready in time for a trip to Iceland this summer together with another unimog and will let you know how the tank performed.

P.S. I did consider punctures and is one of the reasons I had it made out of stainless steel, its a lot tougher then aluminium or even normal steel. I also carry 2 jerrycans with fuel just in case...
(I found some really usefull tips on emergency field repairs of tank punctures on a dutch truckers forum, they have used everything from ratchet strap and rags to bars of soap, axle grease and ducktape...).
I thought about a dual tank system but I don't have room to place 1 tank higher to transfer it from (there is a container box on top). So the remaining option is to have 2 smaller tanks placed behind each other and use them as communicating vessels or separate with a transfer pump between them. I didn't want to have communicating tanks with a connection at the bottom because of the higher risk of tearing it of. I read somewhere that trucks ( lorry's ) with communicating tank always have the suction tank placed slightly higher than the storage tank).
 
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