DIY Super Singles

[iggi]

Holy cow that looks great!! Awesome progress!!

Better!
Now i need to figure a way to climb in, lol.

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[Abitibi]

If anyone is curious, I made a video showing how I went around to build my rims. I had no clue when I started this project, couldn't find decent info on what I had in mind so hopefully this can help someone down the road. It worked great for me although I'm sure there's better ways to do it. I'm not a professional so let's just say this video is for entertainment only

Cheers,
David

 

[Abitibi]

Just a little crack at it

If you're curious how it looks inside, my buddy made a video tour of it. I posted it in the 4wd van sub-forum...

Cheers
David

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[mog]

Have you had a chance to road-test your new wheel set-up yet?

 

[Abitibi]

Sure did! Been running them for a good month now and quite happy with them.

I was hoping for a more drastic RPM drop but now I know I could actually go up to 395's if I wanted. I still need to start in 2nd gear as well.

I didn't balance the wheels, just 12oz of beads per wheel and some times I have a bit of hopping. I think it's mainly due to the lack of weight at the back...

So overall very happy.

Cheers!

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[baipin]

I spoke with someone who ran the MPT81's in 335/80R20 for a while, on the exact same wheels. For about 4 or 5 years. They had to get rid of the tires at about 60% tread because there was cracking in between the tread blocks. They said the issue was from running them on 20x10 MRAP wheels and the bead not sitting quite how it was supposed to. Never had any issues beyond that though, apparently. I'll be curious to see if you don't run into these same problems, since the sidewall/bead on the PS22's seems to cause less problems on these wheels than the MPT81 ones. I know people have struggled with MPT81's on unmodified 20x10 MRAPs before, but don't know how other 335/80R20 tires fare...

 

[Abitibi]

I'm curious too but 5yrs of use wouldn't be too bad either

I just took the truck for a 18hrs round trip to pick up a 5000lbs ambo box that I'll build up as my camper. I can say that on the way it wasn't that comfortable, bouncy, some vibrations... Then on the way back with the box loaded on the frame it was a delight! Ran way better! And I think I can make it even better.

I figured one issue with my rims (and a solution). There's some vibration which seem to be on the front driver side. Either I forgot to add beads to that wheel (unlikely but possible) or the following:

The adapter plate I built (with the 20 outer studs holes) has the same size of stud holes as the main rim which are slightly oversized for the studs size. One the rim it's not an issue as the outer ring self-aligns itself with the inner ring but on my plate there's no such thing. The adapter plate can be bolted a little offset which would cause vibrations. I'm thinking to add 2 dowels between the outer ring and my adapter plate so that all the holes would be perfectly aligned and would stay that way as I tighten the 20 nuts.

Makes sense?

And because a post without pictures is boring... found a little brother in town, lol.

 

[baipin]

I'm curious too but 5yrs of use wouldn't be too bad either

I just took the truck for a 18hrs round trip to pick up a 5000lbs ambo box that I'll build up as my camper. I can say that on the way it wasn't that comfortable, bouncy, some vibrations... Then on the way back with the box loaded on the frame it was a delight! Ran way better! And I think I can make it even better.

I figured one issue with my rims (and a solution). There's some vibration which seem to be on the front driver side. Either I forgot to add beads to that wheel (unlikely but possible) or the following:

The adapter plate I built (with the 20 outer studs holes) has the same size of stud holes as the main rim which are slightly oversized for the studs size. One the rim it's not an issue as the outer ring self-aligns itself with the inner ring but on my plate there's no such thing. The adapter plate can be bolted a little offset which would cause vibrations. I'm thinking to add 2 dowels between the outer ring and my adapter plate so that all the holes would be perfectly aligned and would stay that way as I tighten the 20 nuts.

Makes sense?

And because a post without pictures is boring... found a little brother in town, lol.

View attachment 779198

What is the I.D. of your machined wheels? Would it be possible to machine down a "ring" on your adapter plate, say 1/16" to create a lip that would fit inside the I.D. of your wheels and act as a register for keeping everything concentric?

I just got my hands on 22.5" Hutchinson two piece rims (yes, really - 22.5's) and am running into a similar problem with keeping everything concentric.

I'll have to attach them to the outer ring. Inner bolt pattern has to be machined out but the ID won't work with my front axle's bolt pattern, and the existing 8 lug pattern doesn't play nicely with the larger 10 lug pattern for the rear axle.

Another possible option for keeping everything concentric on either of our adapter plates: machine a 45 deg. taper into three bolt holes, and temporarily secure the plate with lugcentric tapered nuts. Then use the "proper" non-tapered nuts and bolts to secure the plate to the wheel. Remove the temporary tapered nuts and put the rest of the nuts and bolts in place.

 

[Abitibi]

What is the I.D. of your machined wheels? Would it be possible to machine down a "ring" on your adapter plate, say 1/16" to create a lip that would fit inside the I.D. of your wheels and act as a register for keeping everything concentric?

I just got my hands on 22.5" Hutchinson two piece rims (yes, really - 22.5's) and am running into a similar problem with keeping everything concentric.

I'll have to attach them to the outer ring. Inner bolt pattern has to be machined out but the ID won't work with my front axle's bolt pattern, and the existing 8 lug pattern doesn't play nicely with the larger 10 lug pattern for the rear axle.

Another possible option for keeping everything concentric on either of our adapter plates: machine a 45 deg. taper into three bolt holes, and temporarily secure the plate with lugcentric tapered nuts. Then use the "proper" non-tapered nuts and bolts to secure the plate to the wheel. Remove the temporary tapered nuts and put the rest of the nuts and bolts in place.

Your last option could work well and is similar to what I had in mind by adding 2 dowels per plates. I would perfectly align the adapter plate to the existing rim, secure and drill/install the dowels in place so that every time the wheel is taken apart it would re-align itself perfectly with those dowels.

I can't see your picture but I'm very curious what you found in 22.5"! I would have preferred the 22's as there's way more tire options and an even better price stand albeit maybe not as "military" looking but that isn't a problem for me. There's plenty of good options in the 22's for vehicle used both on and offroad (mining, forestry...).

Cheers!

 

[baipin]

How peculiar that the photo didn't display! Here they are:



They are from a Humvee prototype called the NXT360 and were sold by the junkyard that crushed the test vehicle... they were allowed to save a few "civilian" things such as wheels, lights, mirrors, etc. I have more details in my bus thread.




One very simple option you could try: https://tiresupplynetwork.com/produ...-100-pack-fleet-bucket?variant=39635290456126 See if a tire shop has wheel centering sleeves. They should be a buck or two each, three per wheel.

 

[Abitibi]

Wow, you got lucky with those rims! Do you know the bolt pattern?

And those adapters could very well work! I'll look into those, thx for the link!!

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[baipin]

Thanks! yeah, the bolt pattern is some bizarre 8x8.75 pattern. The Humvee NXT360 is the only vehicle I know of with it.



I could bore it out like this to work with the rear axle's 10x11.75 bolt pattern. The rear axle is hubcentric with four "pads" that the wheel sits on as you mount it. The pads sit between each of the 8 pre-existing bolt holes so while this looks a little funny, the hub and wheel would fully seat against each other. I think it might be a bit stronger than an adapter plate on the rear? The existing wheel center is made from 1" thick aluminum!!

 

[Ferjablito]

10" for Fuso in case someone helps

 

[Abitibi]

10" for Fuso in case someone helps

That's a nice piece of information for Fuso owners, thanks for contributing!