DMSKI's 2000 Xterra slow build

[Dmski]

Update:

I'm trying to consolidate everything into this forum so bear with me.

A trip from this summer:

Went to find some new trails in Idaho. Found some easy logging roads and had fun messing around up in the Mts. Had thunderstorms which cleared to sun at the end of the day. Trails are south of Pinehurst, ID.

my hardly stuffed tire!

Posin shots

View Coming down

Also was able to finish up my 120k service at the end of August. Includes all fluids changed, NGK iridium plugs, wires, rotor and distributor, seafoam, fuel filter, oil filter, clean the MAF, and bleed/adjust clutch.

Last weekend had the chance to go up to Silver Mt. to bike. Wet day, but the X looked right at home.





And we had to fix a flat... no fun.

 

[Jack Stilts]

Nice pics!

I don't remember seeing anything in your thread about doing the timing belt. You've pretty much covered all the necessary 100K maintenance, but if you haven't done that yet, it should be the next thing on your list (as in ASAP because Nissan only suggests their timing belt lasts 100K miles). Keep up the cool build!

 

[Dmski]

Thanks jack! Went through your build on xterranation and its very impressive. Im headed towards your direction but will probably do what mortonm mentioned in regards to a suspension refresh. If i add any more gear/ armor it will really start to sag...

I did get lucky when buying the x as the previous owner had done the timing belt, but im still sort of worried it will break even with his paperwork to proove it shouldnt.

 

[Co-opski]

Thanks jack! Went through your build on xterranation and its very impressive. Im headed towards your direction but will probably do what mortonm mentioned in regards to a suspension refresh. If i add any more gear/ armor it will really start to sag...

I did get lucky when buying the x as the previous owner had done the timing belt, but im still sort of worried it will break even with his paperwork to proove it shouldnt.

You should be good then, look under the hood, some shops put a decal or paint the date and mileage on for the timing belt service. The first time I did the Tbelt I just put a water pump and Tbelt in and the second Tbelt at 200k I did the camshaft seals and crankshaft seal, Tbelt tensioner, Tbelt, and water pump. Our Tbelts don't usually just break they stretch and teeth start to come off of them and the damage comes when they slip and skip a bunch of teeth. Make sure you use the Tbelt our motors as the old V6 hardbody d21 and wd21 pathfinders will fit but there teeth are different shapes, not good.

The NGK iridium plugs are just bomber for our rigs, put them in and forget about it. I got 120K miles out of my last set and the mechanic said they still looked to be in good shape.

If you ever want to sell that Shrock bumper put it on a pallet and send it up the coast. Looking good!

 

[Dmski]

Hopefully wont have to sell the shrock but if I do I'll be sure to let you know! You mentioned camshaft seals and crankshaft seals. Did you end up doing that as preventative maintenance at around 130k or because it was becoming an issue?

 

[XTorrey]

Nice build so far!

 

[Dmski]

Another Update:

Finally got around to replacing the stock radio. Was not able to play music through it, nor did the CD player work or the backlight. Put this low end Kenwood in.



In other news, wheeling in Colville with the ORV club. I hate the NW pinstriping but that's what you get for some fun times and pucker factor!











One of two stock rigs actually. Me and a Jeep. X dig great! A few punishing tree branches to the paint and a drop on the step down which I didn't get a vid of, but I did get one from another person.

 

[Co-opski]

Hopefully wont have to sell the shrock but if I do I'll be sure to let you know! You mentioned camshaft seals and crankshaft seals. Did you end up doing that as preventative maintenance at around 130k or because it was becoming an issue?

I did them at 200k, and they we preventative nothing was leaking, it is just easy to get to them when they are doing the t-belt. The only oi leak I have is my rear main seal is leaking but I'll get that some other time when I upgrade my motor mounts. I got 120k out of my last set of ngk iridium spark plugs.
Nice trip photos, you need some expo bling and put some limb risers on that bumper to keep the branches back.

 

[Dmski]

Limb risers, now that is an idea haha! A fan of those on defenders, but not sure how they would look on an xterra? Has anyone done that before?

Also, to anyone really, I'm looking into POR-15 or brushing on used oil for undercarriage protection for the upcoming winter. I try to spray down the underside after a ski day if I get a chance, but that's not always doable when the hose is frozen... Is it worth the money? Anyone used it before? It would be hard to get to all the little places under the frame, but is it worth a shot for most of the areas under there?

 

[mortonm]

Limb risers, now that is an idea haha! A fan of those on defenders, but not sure how they would look on an xterra? Has anyone done that before?

Also, to anyone really, I'm looking into POR-15 or brushing on used oil for undercarriage protection for the upcoming winter. I try to spray down the underside after a ski day if I get a chance, but that's not always doable when the hose is frozen... Is it worth the money? Anyone used it before? It would be hard to get to all the little places under the frame, but is it worth a shot for most of the areas under there?

I use wax oil on my vehicles. Place the vehicle up on a lift and spray with an air gun. Easy to get into all the frame holes and suspension components. Takes about an hour or so and does a great job of keeping the nasty salt water off.

I'm sure there are local companies that do oil spraying if you don't have access to the necessary tools. Very common up here

 

[Dmski]

Finally got around to doing the spark plugs. Man they needed it badly. Replaced with NGK iridiums. But did run into some issues. Couldn't get that damned #6 out... why they made it so hard to reach, i'll never know. Was lying on my stomach on the engine and still couldn't squeeze my hand there to get any leverage. So that is still sitting there. I'll probably have to get a shop to swap it.

I also couldn't figure out how to get the rotor off from the distributor cap. It wasn't going to move from pointing at the #6 rotor cap, and so I couldn't get a screw driver onto the backside to loosen it. Does it stop always at 6, or if i just turn on the engine breifly and then turn it off and remove the cap, it will be moved so I can access the screw? Anyone had experience with this?

 

[mortonm]

Finally got around to doing the spark plugs. Man they needed it badly. Replaced with NGK iridiums. But did run into some issues. Couldn't get that damned #6 out... why they made it so hard to reach, i'll never know. Was lying on my stomach on the engine and still couldn't squeeze my hand there to get any leverage. So that is still sitting there. I'll probably have to get a shop to swap it.

I also couldn't figure out how to get the rotor off from the distributor cap. It wasn't going to move from pointing at the #6 rotor cap, and so I couldn't get a screw driver onto the backside to loosen it. Does it stop always at 6, or if i just turn on the engine breifly and then turn it off and remove the cap, it will be moved so I can access the screw? Anyone had experience with this?

I've never had to do something on a vehicle that was half as frustrating as the number 6 sparkplug. Obviously whoever designed the engine wasn't going to have to be the guy changing it out!

I used just about every extension and swivel joint I had available. I also took the entire hood off the truck. Wasn't that hard and made it a lot easier to get in there. I think its only 4 bolts. Good luck!!

 

[Co-opski]

snip..
I also couldn't figure out how to get the rotor off from the distributor cap. It wasn't going to move from pointing at the #6 rotor cap, and so I couldn't get a screw driver onto the backside to loosen it. Does it stop always at 6, or if i just turn on the engine breifly and then turn it off and remove the cap, it will be moved so I can access the screw? Anyone had experience with this?

Yes you can hit the starter and the rotor will turn and stop on a different point. One in six chance that it will hit #6 again.

As for the old #6 Youtube has a video on it "Nissan #6 spark plug" or try this forum post. My mechanics know that I bring them stuff that just sucks to do on my own. I make them work for the $100 an hour rate.
http://www.clubfrontier.org/forums/f46/6-spark-plug-replacement-how-pics-66265/

 

[billyzj]

The number six is pita but if you use one of the flexible mirror it will help you out alot,thats how i did mine when i changed my wires ,wish i did it with the spark plug.def need a universal

 

[Dmski]

Little update:

Well, still haven't swapped numero seis out yet but will hopefully get a chance this weekend. Picked this guy up of amazon for $30 shipped, the UV-5r+. Pretty amazing for the price in my opinion!


Now I have some better alternate coms when going out alone. Wouldn't rely on by any means, but one other thing to help. Still looking to find a winch which will likely have to wait till next year.