Dodge Ram 2500

[RusherRacing]

Well I took a deep dive and bought way more truck than I need
2004 Dodge Ram 2500 SLT Cummins - Auto
85k Miles

Now to the good and bad

Good
85k miles
Like the color combo
Price :victory:

Bad
Driveline clunk (believe Ujoints)
Slight Vibration in the front end (tierods or balljoints)
Windshield $190


I have $1000 dollars (right now) to put into it for repairs, and prevenitive maintenance. - and will have an additonal ~3k when my old tahoe sells.

I am thinking the front end, ujoints, windshield will take care of most of the money I have available. But I will do the fuel filter, and an oil change right away. Check out the condition of the pads and rotors.

What would be on your list for prevenitive maintenance moving forward?
- Trans fluid and filter? - what about hi capacity pan?
- Diff Fluid?
- Radiator flush?
- Brake Fluid?
- anything I am missing?


When my tahoe sells I will be adding steps(sliders), fender flares, topper(w/bed tred), and tires (possibly leveling kit and h2 wheels), and possibly putting down bedliner along the rockers, and fender flares.

I will try and get some pictures up when i get it cleaned up this weekend. It won't be used to tow anything significant - occasional 20' open with a light race car(4,000lbs total weight). - may look at getting a 26'-30' enclosed car/toy hauler at a later date to use as a base camp, and shelter while at the race track.

Does anyone know of any sweet slider steps for the 3gen dodge ram? In my mind I thinks something like a 2x6x.25 tube with expanded metal on top or similar? or am I going to have to make my own?

 

[ExpoMike]

Sounds like you have a good plan going. I just bought an '97 Ram 2500, 4x4 Cummins truck.

A couple things to note, H2 wheels are not a bolt on. The center bore of the wheel is smaller on the GM so you have to bore out the wheel center like .21" to fit a Dodge. Not sure on 3rd gens but I have not found much in the way of sliders for any of the Ram trucks. Just not the same support as say a Jeep. I am planning on building my own.

Good luck and post up some pics!

 

[Hilldweller]

Does anyone know of any sweet slider steps for the 3gen dodge ram? In my mind I thinks something like a 2x6x.25 tube with expanded metal on top or similar? or am I going to have to make my own?

Congrats.
I got the Undercover classic, btw; thanks.

I'm shopping for sliders for my G4; let me know what you turn up. Their forums aren't like Jeep forums. Not as much instant advice.

 

[GTABurnout]

First thing I did to my truck was all new 08+ steering. Huge change. I run a B&M aluminum pan cheap and has a drain plug so you can change fluid with out dropping the pan. I also ran 35's on stock wheels un lifted. Now with my carli stiff I can't believe I ever thought the stock truck rode ok, this is the way they should be from the factory.

On I would also invent in a Nitrogen charged steering stab, buy gfrom Carli or thuren.

 

[ExpoMike]

First thing I did to my truck was all new 08+ steering. Huge change. I run a B&M aluminum pan cheap and has a drain plug so you can change fluid with out dropping the pan. I also ran 35's on stock wheels un lifted. Now with my carli stiff I can't believe I ever thought the stock truck rode ok, this is the way they should be from the factory.

On I would also invent in a Nitrogen charged steering stab, buy gfrom Carli or thuren.

Which Carli system did you go with? I am looking at them and not sure what route I want to go.

 

[Metcalf]

I would.....

-Replace the rear u-joints
-Check the rear pinion seal ( seems common to wear )
-synthetic in both diffs since they always turn
-automatic fluid change with the biggest deepest pan you can find w/drain plug
-Engine oil change

Skip the H2 wheels, the stock wheels have proper backspacing and rub less
If you can find/have a set of factory 'polished' wheels they are forged alum.

-08 steering linkage as mentioned
-Make sure to check the upper AND lower ball joints

-You can fit 37s with just a leveling kit on stock wheels if you push the front axle forward with longer arms. The rear axle needs to go back. You can make an offset shim that fits between the spring and axle pad to push the rear axle back. The u-bolt plate needs a little tweak if you do this.

-The aftermarket suspension available for 3rd gen dodge trucks is amazing. There are a lot of flavors. From what I have seen I like Carli the best.

Post some pics....sounds like a nice project!

 

[RusherRacing]

Thanks for the advise!

I need to be careful with any lift and larger tires as I still need it to fit into my garage. It just gets to cold and crappy here in the winter to deal with it sitting outside.

Thanks for the info on the wheels - I will have to think on that for awhile. Its got the chrome steel wheels now (not my cup of tea) - I believe they are 17" but didn't look closely.

I am planning on the 315/70/17 Goodyear wrangler duratracs or going up to the 315/75/16 (priced right) or possibly 325/65/18(way more money)

 

[Master-Pull]

Whats different about the 08 steering? I would add a after market lift pump, the stock ones don't filter very well and can burn out injectors, injector pumps etc.

I added a FASS to mine, it filters well and is pretty easy to get in there. Then I had to do injectors a few weeks later because mine were already shot.

-Alex

 

[RusherRacing]

What does FASS stand for?

It appears to be a fuel pump, filter, seperator system. Is one brand better than another? Is this put in, in addition to the stock unit?

Sorry I am a complete noob when it comes to diesels. I just know what I over hear from friends conversations etc. They don't use brand names or anything so I am in a complete new world.

I know tons about imports from my teen years, general suspension systems and modifications, and racing components for the vette world, travel and mild off roading etc but I am a total noob to this diesel and dodge thing.

 

[Master-Pull]

No problem, FASS is a brand, there is also Air Dog and some other brands of lift pumps.

The dodge has 2 pumps, a low pressure lift pump that draws fuel, and feeds the high pressure pump. The high pressure pump then feeds the injectors, if air gets in here it messes stuff up.

The FASS also filters fuel better then the stock filter can, the stock dodge filters are good for about 10 microns of filtration I believe, the Fass can do 2. The injectors want about 3 microns of filtration for proper operation. The good thing about the FASS is it is remotely mounted, and you can change the filter very easily, you can also drain water out of it in case you get some bad diesel. The intank lift pumps the dodges have aren't good. They are known to fail and damage the high pressure pump before you realize what is going on. So the FASS takes that pump out and you run either a draw straw (which is literally just a pickup into the tank for fuel) or a empty sending unit (what I prefer) to get the fuel to the FASS.

-Alex

 

[Rovertrader]

I have a Fox steering stab from Thuren, used it maybe 500 miles, then went to ram assist. PM if interested- also have a spare PS pump valved from PSC for ram assist if you want to go that route...

 

[Fish]

I am planning on the 315/70/17 Goodyear wrangler duratracs or going up to the 315/75/16 (priced right) or possibly 325/65/18(way more money)

Not sure if you meant to type 315/75/16 there, but those won't fit. The calipers need the 17" wheels to clear.

As far as lift, I went with the Carli Starter with the Bilstein 5100's. The difference in ride is phenomenal, and I don't have the custom tuned shocks.

I have 315 Bridgestone Revo's. They're pretty much the only E rated AT out there.

As other have stated, spend your money on fixing what's wrong first. Then look at the upgrades.

 

[Metcalf]

The Duratrac is a really good tire. If they made larger sizes I would run them.

 

[GTABurnout]

Which Carli system did you go with? I am looking at them and not sure what route I want to go.

I went with the 2.65 kit with full leaf springs. Well worth the money. Carli dosne't make "lift kits" they make suspension kits.

I would.....

Skip the H2 wheels, the stock wheels have proper backspacing and rub less
If you can find/have a set of factory 'polished' wheels they are forged alum.

-08 steering linkage as mentioned
-Make sure to check the upper AND lower ball joints

-You can fit 37s with just a leveling kit on stock wheels if you push the front axle forward with longer arms. The rear axle needs to go back. You can make an offset shim that fits between the spring and axle pad to push the rear axle back. The u-bolt plate needs a little tweak if you do this.

-The aftermarket suspension available for 3rd gen dodge trucks is amazing. There are a lot of flavors. From what I have seen I like Carli the best.

Post some pics....sounds like a nice project!

I ran a 315/70R17 on a bone stock truck not leavling kit no shims nothing. Stock wheels no rub. I would go with the stock aluminum wheels, the H2 have better offset for lifted big tire trucks.

Thanks for the advise!

I am planning on the 315/70/17 Goodyear wrangler duratracs or going up to the 315/75/16 (priced right) or possibly 325/65/18(way more money)

You will not fit a 16 inch wheel over stock brakes. Look at them now you can bairly fit 17's over them.

Whats different about the 08 steering?

-Alex

Just about everything you could ever want to know about dodge steering.

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...2834-sticky-steering-linkage-info-thread.html


Also grab a Steering box brace, helps pull the wander out of the front end.

 

[GTABurnout]

Not sure if you meant to type 315/75/16 there, but those won't fit. The calipers need the 17" wheels to clear.

As far as lift, I went with the Carli Starter with the Bilstein 5100's. The difference in ride is phenomenal, and I don't have the custom tuned shocks.

I have 315 Bridgestone Revo's. They're pretty much the only E rated AT out there.

As other have stated, spend your money on fixing what's wrong first. Then look at the upgrades.

Unless hes towing heavy he will not need a E rated tire. In fact I prefer a Yokohama D rated tire since the side wall is not as stiff so airing down and ride quality is much improved. Not to mention my D rated tire is about the same rating as most E's just at a lower pressure.