Master-Pull
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I have the older style that has a bolt on dampener, so no upgrade for me.
-Alex
-Alex
Dodge Ram 2500
- Thread starter RusherRacing
- Start date
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Aluminess sliders.
Aluminess is making sliders for the 3rd gen Dodges now. They are made of steel.
Sounds like you have a good plan going. I just bought an '97 Ram 2500, 4x4 Cummins truck.
A couple things to note, H2 wheels are not a bolt on. The center bore of the wheel is smaller on the GM so you have to bore out the wheel center like .21" to fit a Dodge. Not sure on 3rd gens but I have not found much in the way of sliders for any of the Ram trucks. Just not the same support as say a Jeep.I am planning on building my own.
Good luck and post up some pics!
Aluminess is making sliders for the 3rd gen Dodges now. They are made of steel.
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
16"s won't fit. Firestone/Bridgestone makes the only E rated 315 I'm aware of. If you peel off the chrome cladding,sand and rattle can your wheels, they'll work fine.
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
The '08.5+ steering is much stouter and maintains constant toe-in during cycling. Source Automotive sells it w/zerk fittings.
A cheap way to upgrade your fuel filtration is to install a Baldwin PF7977 drop in fuel filter in the stock canister. 5mic vs. 7 for the Fleetguard/Mopar unit.
I've the Glacier Diesel Power 2-micron setup,but you've got a budget for now.
A cheap way to upgrade your fuel filtration is to install a Baldwin PF7977 drop in fuel filter in the stock canister. 5mic vs. 7 for the Fleetguard/Mopar unit.
I've the Glacier Diesel Power 2-micron setup,but you've got a budget for now.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
After the maintenance items, I'd be looking at a couple gauges.
Minimally, EGT and fuel pressure.
EGT so you know you aren't heat soaking your turbo bearings when you shut it down, and fuel pressure so you can get it off the road if the lift pump fails (driving with no lift pump will kill the injection pump).
An equally effective alternative to the fuel pressure guage is a pressure switch that drives a indicator light. Either will work - you just want to make sure that *something* tells you when/if you lose fuel pressure.
Minimally, EGT and fuel pressure.
EGT so you know you aren't heat soaking your turbo bearings when you shut it down, and fuel pressure so you can get it off the road if the lift pump fails (driving with no lift pump will kill the injection pump).
An equally effective alternative to the fuel pressure guage is a pressure switch that drives a indicator light. Either will work - you just want to make sure that *something* tells you when/if you lose fuel pressure.
Hilldweller
SE Expedition Society
I'm looking at these guys for sliders. They look functional and strong.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
Man I really like their bumper but $2400 plus any options... :Wow1:
Why is it that full size bumpers seem to be in the $1200 -$2400 range? Come on, it's not that much more steel than a Jeep bumper.
Hilldweller
SE Expedition Society
No volume sales...
RusherRacing
Adventurer
I was also looking at those BIT sliders. I wonder if I could have them make them so they sit 2-4" below the body to act as a better step. My wife really wants me to get something so it is easier to get the car seat in etc.
Also, my truck has had the transfer pump conversion. If this has been done is it still worth it to do the FASS setup? From the reading I was doing it sounded like this took care of the issue?
I will see if I can get the baldwin filter. Those are the type of upgrades I like! No relocating etc...
I will take a look at what is causing the vibration later today and plan my steering upgrades from there. Really depends on available $$
Also, my truck has had the transfer pump conversion. If this has been done is it still worth it to do the FASS setup? From the reading I was doing it sounded like this took care of the issue?
I will see if I can get the baldwin filter. Those are the type of upgrades I like! No relocating etc...
I will take a look at what is causing the vibration later today and plan my steering upgrades from there. Really depends on available $$
RusherRacing
Adventurer
Thanks I was also looking at those and that is good information to know. I was shying away because I don't care for the drop down step but that confirms for me to stay away from the n-fab atleast for the sliders
Regcabguy
Oil eater.
Mike,give Aluminess a call and see if they've got their sliders in stock. It's worth it for a factory tour. I don't know the price,but they're nice folks. No hard sell or anything.
ExpoMike
Well-known member
I don't see them listing any sliders for any trucks, only vans. As for bumpers, they only make a rear one for us 2nd gen guys and they are $$$$ as is everything they make. They make nice stuff but you're paying for it.
As for the comment on volume... well at the prices these companies are asking, damn right there is a small market. Let me tell you, if Jeep bumpers were in the same price range, there would be a very small market too.
Prime example of this is the whole aftermarket engine area. Why do you think the small block Chevy engine gets put in everything... because they are cheap to build and run great. Ford and Dodge make some great engines but they will set you back about twice the cost. The guy building a hot rod will likely choose the SBC because it keeps the overall cost of the build down. Go to any hot rod show and see how many Fords are powered by Chevy's.
Companies should learn from Costco, Walmart, etc. Volume will make you more money in the long run then profit per unit.
Sorry for the hijack.
goodtimes
Expedition Poseur
They can make all the bumpers in the world -- but if they can't sell them, what's the point? Demand simply does not justify mass production.
RusherRacing
Adventurer
Well I got the truck up in the air today to see really whats going on with it.
The rear Ujoint is SHOT! So hopefully I can get some spicer ujoints in the rear driveshaft tomorrow.
The brakes are also about gone (1/16th or less) so what should I replace them with? I like Raybestos and Hawks for my race cars. But that may not correspond to heavy duty truck brakes.
So I am looking at the Raybestos AT's or the Hawk LTS.
Everything in the front end looks tight so thats good, must be the tires.
Hopefully I can get parts locally and tomorrow and start getting this thing back into tip top shape.
The rear Ujoint is SHOT! So hopefully I can get some spicer ujoints in the rear driveshaft tomorrow.
The brakes are also about gone (1/16th or less) so what should I replace them with? I like Raybestos and Hawks for my race cars. But that may not correspond to heavy duty truck brakes.
So I am looking at the Raybestos AT's or the Hawk LTS.
Everything in the front end looks tight so thats good, must be the tires.
Hopefully I can get parts locally and tomorrow and start getting this thing back into tip top shape.
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