Dont Call it a Build Thread

[howirolla]

well I got the multimeter out this morning before coming into work, right after start up I am only getting 12v at the battery and at the alternator. then when driving to work and the squeal hit, I started looking for other signs of things, the dash is visibly brighter, and the heater blower kicks in higher. its seeming to me that the alternator is on its way out. local parts store has one that's just under 200 bones, that seems crazy to me, is there a preferred brand amongst people here? If I gotta spend land rover type money on an alternator I would like one that's actually gunna last...

 

[jaccox23]

Replace with OEM. If you want to be a bit cheaper about it find one at the junkyard and take it to a alternator shop. should be a small hole in the wall shop and shouldn't be very much to get one cleaned up and working right. just make sure the junkyard one isn't oil soaked as thats the biggest reason for OEM failing in the first place. That said i inherited a '98 with a parts house alternator much like yourself and was having similar voltage problems. I as well didn't want to fork up the cash at the time either and just took the parts house alternator to the local alternator shop and had them run it and take it apart. He was ready to replace the rectifier, but once he broke it open turns out every single bolt holding the internals was loose. He tightened them up put it back together ran it on the bench and all was well. This was about 9 months ago and it's been working flawlessly ever since. But with that said i'm still keeping an eye out for a junkyard OEM unit to have rewound at the alternator for a few more amps. Also check the tensioning assembly on yours with say a personal mirror and flashlight and make sure its actually maintaining tension and the bolt isn't stripped or the bracket cracked leading to the squealing. Also check your ground mainly the two on the back of the AC bracket as you should have had to remove those to do the timing belt. Many a people have easliy forgot about those two grounds with reassembly of the timing job.

 

[howirolla]

Replace with OEM. If you want to be a bit cheaper about it find one at the junkyard and take it to a alternator shop. should be a small hole in the wall shop and shouldn't be very much to get one cleaned up and working right. just make sure the junkyard one isn't oil soaked as thats the biggest reason for OEM failing in the first place. That said i inherited a '98 with a parts house alternator much like yourself and was having similar voltage problems. I as well didn't want to fork up the cash at the time either and just took the parts house alternator to the local alternator shop and had them run it and take it apart. He was ready to replace the rectifier, but once he broke it open turns out every single bolt holding the internals was loose. He tightened them up put it back together ran it on the bench and all was well. This was about 9 months ago and it's been working flawlessly ever since. But with that said i'm still keeping an eye out for a junkyard OEM unit to have rewound at the alternator for a few more amps. Also check the tensioning assembly on yours with say a personal mirror and flashlight and make sure its actually maintaining tension and the bolt isn't stripped or the bracket cracked leading to the squealing. Also check your ground mainly the two on the back of the AC bracket as you should have had to remove those to do the timing belt. Many a people have easliy forgot about those two grounds with reassembly of the timing job.

Is there an easy way to tell if it is an OEM alternator? like a stamp or badge somewhere on it? as for the ground I know I got that, but I only remember there being one... I did notice when doing the tbelt though that there was a ground strap on the frame rail in front of the motor on the passenger side that wasn't connected to anything, not sure what it was supposed to connect to though so I didn't mess with it.

 

[normal_dave]

rc hill mitsubishi, online. You may have to ship the core back. Get OEM. Be sure the passenger front cam seal isn't leaking. It will slowly kill an alternator. I lost two before I realized (learned) what happened.

Check the bottom of the alternator for oil deposits.

 

['round n' back again]

on gen 1 motors i have found the 5.9 cummins from a dodge fits bolt in. did gen2 use the same alt?
the oem is mitsu and parts are painfully expensive. the dodge is denso and the opposite holds true, and its 120a.

 

['round n' back again]

on gen 1 motors i have found the 5.9 cummins from a dodge fits bolt in. did gen2 use the same alt?
the oem is mitsu and parts are painfully expensive. the dodge is denso and the opposite holds true, and its 120a.

 

[jaccox23]

sadly 3.0 and 3.5 are totally different. 3.0 is on top of the engine and 80A i believe and 3.5 is on the bottom of the motor (dunno why) and 100A. there aren't any swaps i'm aware of for the 100A. Amazon has an OEM one for sale in an alright price range, but then you take the risk of it not being an authentic japanese product

 

[Toasty]

The 3.5 alternators are not always 100 amp, 94-96is seems to be about 90 amp

 

[howirolla]

went out in the snow with some friends.
only known picture of the monty from the trip

 

[normal_dave]

ok pics accepted so "it did happen", but we need the editorial!

How did it do vs the Rover, what did the other folks think, are you happy with the snow handling, more please...:costumed-smiley-007

 

['round n' back again]

ok so that looks good. where is that photo taken?
i came howlin through Bend last week and what a difference 6 days makes.
when i came through it was blowin a gale and snowing.

 

[howirolla]

ok pics accepted so "it did happen", but we need the editorial!

How did it do vs the Rover, what did the other folks think, are you happy with the snow handling, more please...:costumed-smiley-007

haha
it did well, I was never in snow this deep in the rover so its not the easiest comparison. we also had a good system when blazing down an un-driven road, that Toyota went first, then a fully locked LC80 on 37's, then me, then the jeep. but I can say having the locker was great, everyone needed a tug job at some point just due to how freakin deep the snow was, well, everyone but the Toyota truck, but I think you all can see why.

my buddy with the cruiser liked what it did, there was only one spot that he was able to get up that I wasn't (which was in reverse up a hill, something that him having a front locker really made the difference) so I think that's a good jumping off point haha.

deff had a moment or two where I had the thought "man a front locker and I would have been fine/better off here." but that has always been in my plans anyway, just want to get a few other things done first.

 

[howirolla]

ok so that looks good. where is that photo taken?
i came howlin through Bend last week and what a difference 6 days makes.
when i came through it was blowin a gale and snowing.

out china hat rd, we took some back roads around horse and cabin butte's then coyote butte. in some places we were blazing our way through about waist deep snow.

 

['round n' back again]

u were just out of town then.
amazing how much snow Central O. did get .
gonna be a happy summer in Bend this year.

i hope we get 4 feet more b4 winters end.

 

[howirolla]

u were just out of town then.
amazing how much snow Central O. did get .
gonna be a happy summer in Bend this year.

i hope we get 4 feet more b4 winters end.

yea at this point you don't need to go to far to get into some real deep stuff
we get one more dump like the last one and that 4 foot mark wont be hard to hit lol