Downhill braking questions

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
Hi gang, didn’t know where to post this query so advise me please if there’s a better spot!

Anyway.....I’m hoping to still do some high altitude, up and down driving on steep Colorado Rocky Mountains passes this fall, on dry paved and unpaved roads.

I’m driving a gas engine, newer, heavily loaded 4wd F350 camper with the 6 speed auto/manual tranny. With my past gas rigs I’ve never downshifted past 3rd gear going down passes, since I always had a manual only transmission and was concerned about burning up the clutch.

So I’m soliciting your advice today, based on your own personal experiences please (not what you’ve read or heard), about whether or how to use downshifting on this current rig for downhill driving, without trashing my transmission.

Thx mucho.
 
Last edited:

quickfarms

Adventurer
What does your owners manual recommend?

Gas engines don't compression brake the way diesels do.

The diesels work well compression braking. Jakes just make it more effective.

With gas engines and auto trans I just set the cruise control
 
Use your gears... put it in tow/haul, tap the brakes or use the button to downshift as needed. Let the engine and transmission do the work. I’m driving a similar rig (but a diesel) with 3,300# dry weight camper, often towing a smaller truck.
 

IdaSHO

IDACAMPER
What does your owners manual recommend?

Gas engines don't compression brake the way diesels do.

The diesels work well compression braking. Jakes just make it more effective.

With gas engines and auto trans I just set the cruise control

Uh, what?
Without a compression release or exhaust brake, a diesel will free-rev, with very little to no engine braking at all, as it doesn't have a throttle plate.

Most gas engines have fantastic engine braking. If you do not have enough for the situation, slow down and downshift.
 

glock7018

Member
Just put it manual mode and downshift as needed. The truck shouldn't let you downshift in a way that would over speed the motor. Also dont worry about high revs. The higher the revs the better the engine braking.
 

workerdrone

Part time fulltimer
It takes some folks a lot to get used to the fact that an engine revving, even to redline under engine braking, doesn't hurt it.

My personal unscientific opinion on braking down a mountain pass is that it's better to brake more aggressively for less time rather than brake smoothly for longer like I'd normally do. Giving the brakes more time in between to cool off. So I usually scrub off a bunch of speed quickly then select a gear that will hold me there given the % incline.

Without causing any dangerous situation with following traffic of course
 

verdesard0g

Search and Rescue first responder
It takes some folks a lot to get used to the fact that an engine revving, even to redline under engine braking, doesn't hurt it.

My personal unscientific opinion on braking down a mountain pass is that it's better to brake more aggressively for less time rather than brake smoothly for longer like I'd normally do. Giving the brakes more time in between to cool off. So I usually scrub off a bunch of speed quickly then select a gear that will hold me there given the % incline.

Without causing any dangerous situation with following traffic of course


Yep, this is the way to do it. The best thing is to keep your speed down in the first place! You don't want to have to use those runaway truck pull off's LOL
I have a diesel with an exhaust brake but still keep speed down and use lower gears.
 

Joe917

Explorer
Very general rule of thumb, whatever gear you would need to climb the grade should be the one you descend in, or lower. A low enough gear to hold a safe descent speed without added braking. Use your hazard lights if well below speed limit.
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
not quite the same, but similar displacement - i was doing some substantial mountain grade descents in my RAM 2500 with the 6.4 Hemi - in tow haul, it will lock the torque converter and will make every effort to hold the speed you are requesting downgrade. these were some pretty substantial grades and it worked beautifully. rarely used my brakes. i was probably close to 9000lbs on that trip
 

Mickey Bitsko

Adventurer
Back in 1970 when I was learning to drive a 21speed Freightliner, the old fella teaching me never forget this " you go down hill in the same gear you go up the hill" you might try this, it's very effective, and you won't be changing your underwear at the bottom of the hill.
 

Monkeysee

Member
Recently came down route 14a going west out of the bighorns mountains in Wyoming.

That road has a 8 to 10 percent grade. About halfway down I thought it prudent to pull over and cool the brakes even though I was running engine compression (2nd and 3rd gear out of 8 auto )and lightly and repeatedly touching the brakes.

Sure enough upon getting out of the truck/camper, the hot brake smell was present and too hot to touch.

Never hurts to get out and enjoy the view.
 

AbleGuy

Officious Intermeddler
Thanks all.

I do have the tow/haul mode BTW, and used it this late summer for the first time coming down Galena Pass in the Sawtooths, but your right, above, cause the noisy, high revs of the engine while using tow/haul scared the heck out of me.

I did use the tow/haul mode going up the pass and that seemed to work ok.

As far as trying to use the piece of crap “one size fits all” owners manual for help....that is another question for another day.
 

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