Driving at payload limit ??

[Haraald]

Is it safe/advisable to consistently drive at a F150's payload limit?

I have a 2016 F150 and am very close to its limit of 1600 lbs. I can buy better tires (E?) and get air bags/sway control/shock stuff; but didn't want to spend the $1000+ I assume that would cost.

Tips please!

 

[glock7018]

Engineers design safety factors into vehicles. That being said I would see how it handles the weight. If it feels floaty going down the road look into some E rated tires, and some good shocks. From there you should be good. If it handles good as it is, enjoy it. Just make sure keep a eye on tire pressures.

 

[adam88]

Of course it is. It's even safe to drive a bit above the payload limit. It's factored into the safety rating. If payload is 2000#, then you don't suddenly become unsafe at 2001#. It's like anything... the more weight you are carrying, the more you should adjust your driving. No need to get E rated tires or spend any extra money. Your F150 came from the factory equipped to handle the payload stamped on the door. All you need to do is make sure your tires are aired up properly and your brakes are in good shape and working properly.

 

[Desert Dan]

I'd upgrade the tires and run higher than normal air pressure.

Also remember handling and breaking issues when fully loaded.

 

[sourdough]

Is it safe/advisable to consistently drive at a F150's payload limit?

I have a 2016 F150 and am very close to its limit of 1600 lbs. I can buy better tires (E?) and get air bags/sway control/shock stuff; but didn't want to spend the $1000+ I assume that would cost.

Tips please!

Get a bigger truck. I am looking a buying a new Ford truck. I would like a F150 but would have the same problem you have. I am going with a F250 for the safety margin and the peace of mind, priceless.

 

[redthies]

You will be ok to run at the rated max, but if you are doing it all day everyday, you probably don't have enough truck. I had to tow near the top capacity of my Land Cruiser yesterday (3 hr trip and my 3500 was unavailable), and while it did fine, it was FAR less pleasant or comfortable than doing the same trip with the same load when I pull it with my 3500. If it were me, I'd be getting a 3/4 ton and having some capacity to spare.

 

[anickode]

Is it safe/advisable to consistently drive at a F150's payload limit?

I have a 2016 F150 and am very close to its limit of 1600 lbs. I can buy better tires (E?) and get air bags/sway control/shock stuff; but didn't want to spend the $1000+ I assume that would cost.

Tips please!

LRE tires (or at least ones you'd want) will cost $1000 by themselves. Good air bags, thicker sway bars, and stiffer shocks will be another thousand.

What I really matters is not so much the weight but the CG and load center. A 1600# block of concrete in the bed just ahead of the axle is a Max payload, with an ideal CG and load center. A 1600# truck camper is also a Max payload, but with a very high CG and a load center that could be aft of the axle depending on the truck/camper combo.

If your CG is too high at Max payload, a blowout can become a rollover really easily at highway speed. CG is considered when the trucks are designed, but they don't go to the trouble of making payload charts that derate the truck depending on the CG and center of the load.

I guess it boils down to this: The truck is rated for 1600#. You are within the rated capacity. If the truck sways more than you are comfortable with, it's time to look into mods to gain some stability.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I'd upgrade the tires and run higher than normal air pressure.

Absolutely. Factory tires are usually the weakest point in half-ton trucks. They are adequate, but barely. FWIW, I haul a lot in my 1998 GMC K1500, bought new. Loads are sometimes up to 4,000 pounds for short trips, and I have had 4400 in it on occasion. It went from 16" LRD to 17" LRE on wider forged factory wheels off a later truck, from 265s to 33s and 35s. I upgraded the stock vacuum boost brakes to one-ton hydro-boost brakes from another GM truck. Springs are stock, shocks are newish Bilsteins, front end has been completely rebuilt with Moog parts. This truck came with all the factory heavy duty options (cooling, electrical, LSD, etc.) but still needed upgrades after it became my work truck. It's getting old, but works just fine. The F-150 is a decent platform and you can set it up to do what you need. Axle ratio is an important consideration.

 

[eggman918]

My front axle is running at 150% of its weight rating at this time and I got 30,000 miles out of a set of Timkin wheel bearings/races so that is another thing to consider component life will be shortened.
I'm putting a 60 under it as soon as I find on for less than it's weight in silver.

 

[TwinStick]

Buy enough truck. If not for your own safety, then for those around you.

Just because you can, does not mean you should. Ask anyone who was involved in an accident with an overloaded vehicle. Even if it was not your fault, you can still be held responsible/liable if you were overloaded, or your tires were, hitch was, ---etc... . Even if your load wasn't secured properly.

You can do things wrong, sometimes for a long time, before something goes bad. But when it does, it usually could have been prevented. The conversation usually starts with "Man, if only would've ????????????????????????????????"

 

[eggman918]

Or "I shouldn't................but I'll be careful", the gods are more forgiving to the ignorant than the reckless.

 

[Haraald]

Thanks guys this is really helpful. What about stronger brakes? Any recommendations?

Any recommendations for specific tires? Do I have to get new wheels too? Just the 2 rear or all 4?

I read somewhere that the rear axle on F150 is often rated 100's if not thousands of more pounds than the official GAWR with stock tires, which can be tapped into by getting better tires.

 

[TwinStick]

Bigger is better. Drilled & slotted run cooler, which is especially important when @ or over your limit. Obviously stronger rims would be better as well. You get all these things when you "buy enough truck." But hey, if you think the gods will protect you, then just go for it. Throw caution to the wind. Max that sucker out. Even get a midsized truck & save some more money !!! LOL

Trust me, it is far cheaper in the long run to "buy enough truck." If you are looking at a slide in camper, will you be doing any side hills ? Something to consider is center of gravity, if you are. I have always had good luck with Cooper Tires but any good Load range E would be fine, if not overkill, for a 1/2 ton.

 

[Ducky's Dad]

"buy enough truck."

OP already has a near-new F-150. Unless he wants to grossly overload it, it probably makes financial and risk management sense to upgrade what he has, rather than to buy another truck. Prudent and sensible mods can probably get him what he seems to need. 1600 pounds is not that much of a load, depending on how his truck is configured from the factory. On the other hand, if it's a base 2WD with the wrong engine, trans and differential ratio, then the cost of appropriate mods may exceed the cost of just getting another truck. We don't know enough about his truck or his use or his terrain.

 

[Oobray]

The problem in my opinion is less of actual capability and more of liability. Let's say you're tooling down the highway and the guy in front of you stops for no reason and you rear end him. Had nothing to do with GVWR but guess what it's gonna be about when you get taken to court!?!?! It does suck having a beautiful new truck that doesn't have the payload you want. You actually don't even have #1,600. When the payload is calculated it's for a specific model and trim, usually the single cab short bed 2wd. This is what I learned when in the market for an F150 Ecoboost. It's payload is calculated based on above, so the model I would want (quad cab, 4x4) added another couple hundred pounds further reducing payload. Then you factor in a family of four (mine is approximately 325 total plus me at 190lbs.) so you have effectively reduced your payload down to where you can barely attached #600 pounds to the tongue (or bed) and be wishing GVWR let alone a whole truck camper!!!!

I would recommend going and getting the truck weighed with you in it. I'm pretty sure the GVWR is #7,200 (it's on the door) and that will tell you EXACTLY how much more you have left.