Dual battery setup with ArkPak and Ctek charger.

[VanDominator13]

I'm in the process of setting up a similar ArkPak 730 based dual battery system. VanDominator1: I understand everything in your setup except the need for the CTEK 250S charger. Was charging through the Anderson plug inadequate? My plan is to run the live line directly from a Wirthco 150A isolator at the starter battery to a 150A circuit breaker and then to the big connector on the side of the ArkPak. I'm not sure about ground yet; I'll probably run an independent ground the same path from the starter battery back to the truck bed.

Hi Rick,
That’s basically the same setup I’m running. I’m planning on putting a150amp fuse in-line closer to the ArkPak in addition to the one in my engine compartment. Two is one , one is none as they say.
With my daughter we rarely drive long enough to charge the ArkPak from the alternator.
The CTek can charge at 28v which gets the ArkPak charged much faster than the alternator. I also got it to use as a charge controller once I decide to add solar.
An added bonus of the 250s which I didn’t know before is that it has a built in battery separator, if you haven’t already installed a Wirthco it might be a good alternative.

 

[john61ct]

If you care about your batt you should not allow voltages outside the mfg spec.

But the CTEK is not setpoint adjustable anyway right? So where is that 28V coming from?

All DCDC chargers remove the need for a different relay/combiner/VSR between those two banks.

 

[DiploStrat]

...
All DCDC chargers remove the need for a different relay/combiner/VSR between those two banks.

Thank you for asking. I was wondering about that myself.
N.B. There may be several reasons for using a manual switch, either to kill the B2B entirely, or, as once recommended by Charlie Sterling, as bypass for self jumping, but I can't see the logic in a VSR.

 

[VanDominator13]

If you care about your batt you should not allow voltages outside the mfg spec.

But the CTEK is not setpoint adjustable anyway right? So where is that 28V coming from?

All DCDC chargers remove the need for a different relay/combiner/VSR between those two banks.

The manual says the max charge current is 20A, which is within the manufacturers spec. From what I understand the Ctek puts a load on the alternator to maintain optimal charge/maintenance current for the battery.

 

[john61ct]

I said nothing about amps or current.

You said 28 volts

 

[VanDominator13]

I said nothing about amps or current.

You said 28 volts

Yeah, I misread the instructions, the max input voltage is 28v. The peak charge voltage is 14.4v

 

[rickc]

Mikey: Why did you run a ground wire all the way from front to back instead of locating a suitable chassis ground under the truck bed? I've been playing with both options (in my head). If I can locate a really good rear ground, it will be significantly cheaper to go this route. I had already ordered parts when I joined this thread; my Wirthco 150A Battery Doctor and 150A breaker arrived yesterday. Slowly catching up with you..

 

[VanDominator13]

Hey Rick,
I did ground to chassis, in addition I ran a redundant ground to the battery.
From what I’ve read there are conflicting views on whether or not chassis grounding is entirely reliable. So I wasn’t taking any chances. Also, if I want to add solar later on I want the system to be up to spec, I’ll probably end up running another 1ga lead for the ground.

 

[john61ct]

I don't trust chassis grounds for anything significant.

Might be fine today, but then not further down the road.

Modern build techniques make things very variable now.

But yes, if properly returning with same-gauge cable back to source, no harm in also tting the various chassis parts in as well.

Long as you don't think it's a true ground, as in earth.