Dual Battery System for 2003 F-150

[baletag]

Any advice/thoughts would be welcome as I'm looking to put together a dual battery system for my 2003 F-150. I have a 130 amp alternator on a 5.4L V-8

The primary purpose is to run a fridge, which is not bought yet but planned to be a 50 qt Indel B. A few lights and charging capacity for phones, tablets, etc. might be in the mix as well.

Under the hood, there is no room for a second battery. My truck has a Leer topper with a bed slide for access to storage in the bed. So, I think I will need to locate a second battery in the bed and have considered a small platform in the front right of the bed at the level of the top of the bed so it will be stationary and independent of the slide.

I like the monitoring and control capability of the T-Max and National Luna kits. The National Luna is pricier but it also has what I think is enough cable to reach the back and fuses in the kit. From what I can tell with the T-Max, you supply your own cable and fuses.

So, a few questions:
How large of a solenoid is enough? The National Luna is an 85 amp solenoid - is that enough for my alternator?
What size battery? Will a Group 24 with 102 amp hours @ 1 amp be enough?
Is there a more cost effective way to go than a kit and still have the monitor and control capability in the cab?
Cable length is an issue from front to back. I figure I need at most 5m of cable to get to the bed, so that would be a 10m circuit length total. What is the minimum cable size I should consider? If the battery is placed on the bed slide, then when it is extended that would add another meter or so of cable. That would be convenient but Im concerned with power loss over a 12m circuit. Would a 12m circuit be too much?
Is there a better solution for running the fridge. In other words, is my assumption that I need a dual battery system correct?

I know these are a lot of questions, but there are some knowledgeable folks here and I'm just looking for some direction. Thanks in advance.

 

[mykdee]

Will be watching! I also have a 1998 F150 with a 5.4 and was going to install a second battery.

 

[1Louder]

You might consider getting an Arkpak or GoalZero 400 and forgo the cost of a dual battery setup. I had a dual battery setup and I am considering simplifying to something like this. Having a voltage gauge generally causes one to stare to often at the conditions of their batteries vs enjoying the outdoors. This article from Arkpak gives a pretty good summary of using their device as a "dual battery" http://www.arkportablepower.com/blo...attery-systems-explained-benefits-and-options

Because of some structural issues with my DIY dual battery mount in my FJ the entire system has been gutted. I run a large Group 31 battery and just keep it topped up with a solar panel and driving of course. No issues on short weekend trips even if we are stationary. I personally think a good portable panel is becoming much more worthwhile than multiple batteries. I also have a jumpbox in case my battery fails.

As for your question of distance while you may lose a little voltage plenty of people place 2nd batteries in the backs of their vehicles. If you look at the National Luna documentation I believe they discuss a 2nd battery can be far away.

I run one fridge, sometimes 2, 2 ham radios, 1 CB, extra USB ports which are always on and have never had any issues.

This guy has a nice setup similar to what I am considering, http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...nd-ARB-Fridge-Install?highlight=xterra+fridge

To me the only true reason to have a dual battery setup is for winch use. Yes, I have had all of these discussions in my head and yes I spent the money on a robust dual battery setup with a National Luna controller, etc. I just don't think in most instances it is necessary even though I convinced myself otherwise. Only time I think it is good is if you are on solo journeys in the middle of nowhere and want a bit of peace of mind. Even if I don't go the Arkpak route I can simply throw my charged up 2nd battery in the back of my vehicle and swap it out with a bad battery if that ever happens.


Is there a better solution for running the fridge. In other words, is my assumption that I need a dual battery system correct?
As I discussed above I think your assumption is probably incorrect. How long will you be out camping and not driving to top up the battery with your alternator? If you know you will be parked for 3-4 days at a time your single battery with all the accessories on it likely will not be able to keep up. That means your 2nd battery will either be low and require charging, or if all of your accessories are on your main battery you may need a jump from the 2nd battery. Most fridges would prevent this though. Dual doesn't mean you are doubling the potential capacity unless you run batteries in parallel. (Note: Plenty of smarter people than me on that topic) You will be the guy running your vehicle 45 minutes at a time while parked trying to charge things up. Get a good 90-120 watt solar panel setup from a company like Renogy and use that to keep your battery charged.
RENOGY® Monocrystalline Foldable Solar Suitcase Kit - $249.00 http://amzn.com/B00HR8YNK6 - Less $$$ than just a National Luna setup.


This article does an excellent job explaining battery size and use, http://www.arkportablepower.com/blo...reezer-and-battery-life-what-you-need-to-know

What size battery? Will a Group 24 with 102 amp hours @ 1 amp be enough?
Bigger is generally better. Stay away from the Sears PM-1 or large Odyssey equivalent. You can see a lengthy thread on here about charging issues. I own one.

Is there a more cost effective way to go than a kit and still have the monitor and control capability in the cab?
Search for Blue Sea options although I don't think you get remote monitor capabilities. I also think that function is over rated. You can put in a cheap volt meter/monitor to see the status of the batteries if you wish.

We all have a tendency to promote the setups we have without really determining if they are the right setup. I had my dual battery setup for a little over a year. The failure of my DIY mount caused me to take a step back and think about what I really needed. It's all free advice. Ok my coffee cup is empty so this lecture is over...

PS: The Indel-B fridge is a good choice. I currently have a 37qt ARB but I am going to get an Indel-B 50 by next summer. I will then run one as a freezer and one as a fridge for long trips.

 

[SportsmanJake]

Welcome to the forum.
This past week I was looking into the possibilities of running dual batteries in my F150.
I posted some info in 3rd page of my build thread about battery fitment in the engine bay. It is all hypothetical at the moment, but it might help.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/141896-1998-Ford-F150-quot-Training-Wheels-quot-Build

 

[Ducky's Dad]

I am a fan of dual battery systems, and have had dual/triple batteries in my trucks for the last 17 or so years. They have saved my butt several times, and thus are worth it to me. Mounting them can be a pain. Wiring them can be a pain, so keep it simple. Maintaining them can be a pain, so heed the above advice and do not get a 31M from Odyssey or Sears unless you are a glutton for punishment. The smaller Odysseys are great. The justification for dual batteries depends entirely on how your truck is set up and how it is used. What works for me may not be necessary for you. I have a big winch, big OBA, fridge, lots of lights. My fridge is an Indel-B/50 and in the AZ desert summer it will wipe out an Optima Grp 34 in about 16-18 hrs. On the other hand, it will also freeze the contents to -21C when ambient temps are north of 110F. I like the Indel-B. Would I rather have an ARB fridge? Yes, but the Indel-B seems to be about 98% as good as the ARB for about 55% of the price.

I don't have an F-150, so not sure where you can mount a second battery. On my Dodge, I have two Optima 34Ms mounted on the outside of the frame rail, under the cab on the passenger side, tucked up high enough for protection from rocks and stumps. Have never had an issue with that mounting. I am not willing to give up cab or bed space for a battery. My solenoids on both trucks are from Painless Performance, and I think they are rated at 250 amps. These are their old heavy duty units that were mil-spec or something like that, probably still available. Nothing automatic, switchable from a toggle on the dash. Think twice about the National Luna dual battery system. There are some threads on here describing a variety of problems with the NL system. When you buy components, buy marine stuff from companies like Blue Sea Systems or Marinco (same parent company). Use wire that is bigger than you think you need. Re monitoring from the cab, you can add voltage gauges, or you can use the battery monitors from NL. The NL monitors are easy to mount and give you the ability to set alarms for low voltage conditions, and to see battery condition and charging status in real time. They give a rough indication of battery and charging status, because they use a series of LEDs rather than a digital readout, and you can get a dual monitor with separate leads to run to each battery. Another option would be an electronic gauge pod from a company like Edge with their Insight unit, assuming that your ECU provides that parameter. A simple way to monitor system voltage in real time is to use the voltage gauge feature on some radar detectors, such as Escorts.