Dual Battery Tray for Tacoma, 4Runner and T100
- Thread starter lwg
- Start date
or 1st gen 4runners/ 2nd gen pickups by chance?
How did the install go. wondering if ya had any problems or ways to improve.
trump
Adventurist
Offer the cables already.:sombrero:
Priced out the two Die Hard Platinum P-5's I plan on putting in mine today... looks like my install will be taking awhile.:snorkel:
lwg
Member
We should have the material next week to start building the cables.
PHXtaco
Adventurer
Going to eventually be a long write up-- but in short, so far I am pleased Columbia Overland's design.
I went with Die Hard Platinum P-5's which are slightly larger than the Odyssey 1400s.
Odyssey 1400: 9.46L x 6.58W x 8.69H
Die Hard P-5's: 9.5L x 6.9W x 8.9H
I have had to fight for every 1/16th of an inch! I have had to modify the truck (fender, radiator fan shroud, and fuse box), the battery case, and the mount itself to get the Die Hards to fit. After 2 days of fighting they are in! Now waiting on cables, fittings, and other electrical parts to finish.
For those considering this you might want to just go with the Odyssey 1400s, but I wanted Die Hards for a number of reasons, mainly ease of warranty.
PHXtaco
Adventurer
A couple teasers:
First, I went with a P-5 and a P-6. They are the same size/rating, just the terminals are flip-flopped. This allowed me to have positive and negative on the same side when installed in the dual battery tray:
For those considering doing this, the P-6 is currently on national back order. My local store did not know when they would be able to get them, though you might still be able to order them online. Another Sears nearby had one so I drove there to get it.
To give you an idea of extremes I was going to in order to get the Die Hards to fit...
I had to grind off the clamping base from 2 sides of one battery and one side of the other:
I cleaned it up afterwards and it is not noticeable if you are not looking for it--- so if I ever do have to take the battery in for warranty, hopefully they will not notice
The bolt that held the fan shroud in place would likely wear through the battery case over time:
I tried several different things, but ended up running a short bolt though the back side. This allows the shroud to hang in the stud:
While this does not hold the shroud forward, when the battery is in place, the battery holds (wedges with extreme force really) the shroud forward.
These are just a sample of a number of things I did and will have a separate longer write up when I am done.
First, I went with a P-5 and a P-6. They are the same size/rating, just the terminals are flip-flopped. This allowed me to have positive and negative on the same side when installed in the dual battery tray:
For those considering doing this, the P-6 is currently on national back order. My local store did not know when they would be able to get them, though you might still be able to order them online. Another Sears nearby had one so I drove there to get it.
To give you an idea of extremes I was going to in order to get the Die Hards to fit...
I had to grind off the clamping base from 2 sides of one battery and one side of the other:
I cleaned it up afterwards and it is not noticeable if you are not looking for it--- so if I ever do have to take the battery in for warranty, hopefully they will not notice
The bolt that held the fan shroud in place would likely wear through the battery case over time:
I tried several different things, but ended up running a short bolt though the back side. This allows the shroud to hang in the stud:
While this does not hold the shroud forward, when the battery is in place, the battery holds (wedges with extreme force really) the shroud forward.
These are just a sample of a number of things I did and will have a separate longer write up when I am done.
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Same here, would like to do something with my '91!
lwg
Member
I doesn't attach to the fender at all. Just uses the stock forward and rearward mounting points for the stock battery tray. All the mounting points are visible on the top plate, the left or passenger side just attaches the top plate to the bottom tray.
TangoBlue
American Adventurist
My question was too vague I think. So what does the kit base plate attach to? I assume basic assembly starts with the left fender apron battery support base plate, batteries, and top plate in that order, right? Then utilize existing radiatior support upper top tie bar, battery bracket, and J-hook.
How is the kit base plate secured to the fender apron battery support?
How is the kit base plate secured to the fender apron battery support?
PHXtaco
Adventurer
The base plate just sits on top of the fenderwell bracket. I know, I know, I thought the same thing, but the stock base plate just sits there too. It is wedged in there pretty good, so there is nowhere for it to slide out. Then once you put two 50 pound batteries on top and clamp them down, there is nowhere that base plate is going.
PHXtaco
Adventurer
Question/comment for the Columbia Overland guys
At first I thought it was just that the battery I was using was shorter, but it is actually taller. Not sure if it is a difference with my truck (2004 DC) or if you did something to resolve this on the truck you did, but if I place the batteries directly on the base plate, the top hold down plate hits the fuse box before clamping the battery unless I remove the lid:
To fix this I took a plastic cutting board and cut a base out to lift the battery high enough for the clamp to work:
…but it ended up lifting the battery too high in the front and the hood would not close:
So I then cut the cutting board down to just a strip and this worked:
Any ideas as to why the difference in the clearance issues? I am using a taller battery so the top plate should not have hit the fuse box.
As a side note, if I need to get into the fuse box I will have to loosen the battery clamp. A minor inconvenience in my opinion, but just wanted to let others who are considering this mod know so they can take it into consideration.
At first I thought it was just that the battery I was using was shorter, but it is actually taller. Not sure if it is a difference with my truck (2004 DC) or if you did something to resolve this on the truck you did, but if I place the batteries directly on the base plate, the top hold down plate hits the fuse box before clamping the battery unless I remove the lid:
To fix this I took a plastic cutting board and cut a base out to lift the battery high enough for the clamp to work:
…but it ended up lifting the battery too high in the front and the hood would not close:
So I then cut the cutting board down to just a strip and this worked:
Any ideas as to why the difference in the clearance issues? I am using a taller battery so the top plate should not have hit the fuse box.
As a side note, if I need to get into the fuse box I will have to loosen the battery clamp. A minor inconvenience in my opinion, but just wanted to let others who are considering this mod know so they can take it into consideration.