Duraburb Newbi + Intro

cestlaviethree

New member
Hey Gents,
New to the Diesel world, I've been doing most of my Expedition on two wheels. So now I've gone ahead and jumped in the deep end of the diesel world and will have Eric from Duraburb begin a conversion on our 2007 2500 Suburban. Here is the down and dirty on the build, feel free to follow our blog during the build if you are interested. Build starts 12-Sept. Link to our blog for pics and updates (http://cestlaviethree.com/the-man-cave/duraburb-july-2015/)

I first learned about Duramax powered suburban on a business trip. The burb’s gas engine and drivetrain was all replaced with a Duramax and 1 ton running gear. It was astonishing, the fit and finish was factory in appearance, great quality and professionally done, and I never heard a negative word mentioned about the truck. So, I made a couple of google searches and it didn’t take long to find the man responsible, enter Eric of Duraburb in Apopka, Florida. The truck forums across the internet covered Eric and his company in praise. So on one of our wayward Disney World trips I swung by and had a talk with Eric and toured his shop. The shop wasn’t anything impressive, but Eric and his products on the other hand were. He spent the better part of 2 hours answering questions, brain storming, and shooting the breeze. So I left Duraburb with a plan…

Step 1: Find a high mileage, low cost, ¾ ton Suburban (4×4 optional)
Step 2: Get on Eric’s build schedule
Step 3: Enjoy the potential


Step 1 is complete. We picked up a used 2007 ¾ ton suburban from a family in Louisiana. The ‘burb is sporting an LT package, 6.0L engine, 130k miles, 2 wheel drive, and a fair amount neglect…but the price was right we walked away paying $13K. Leaving $22k in our budgets. Since picking up the truck we’ve towed our trailer 36' about 2400 miles. Here is what I’ve noticed. The towing capacity on these things is borderline false. The trailer owns the Suburban, as the trailer fights pretty hard even with a 12K lb weight distribution hitch with sway control. The engine under load is struggling, heaven help us if we ever go anywhere with a slight elevation change, foot floored on a typicall 6% grade will yield me only 45-50mph. Most of the time we cruise in the mid 3K RPM range at 60mph, which chugs gas. Best MPG I’ve ever recorded off of DIC is 8MPG and 8.7 hand calculated MPG.

This reaffirmed our decision to contract out a build with Duraburb, so we contacted Brenda and Eric and schedule a build date and specifications. Here’s the details…

Convert 6.0L gas engine to LMM Duramax Turbo Diesel
Replace transmission with Allison 1000 Transmission
Install 4 Wheel Drive (Transfer case, Differential, half shaft, etc.)
Install 11.5 AAM rear axle with 3:73 gears
Install 4in Exhaust
Delete emissions equipment
Install Cold Air Intake System
Install Duramax Power Tune w/ 5 position switch

The goal is to make this a 500K mile truck, which will slowly be converted to an Overlanding Vehicle which can tackle our wildest dreams of exploring. Let the fun begin.

Before and After pictures to be posted.

:)
 

Bushcoat

one trail at a time
In for the 500k. Have you done research about the front differential? Is it a pretty much bolt in deal, or do you have something else planned?
 

Littlehouse

Adventurer
Extremely excited for this build. I see they have a California edition, and I'd love to replace my fathers '97 2500 with something like this for him.
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
IMO with the amount of money you're investing why not just go ahead and put a Dana 60 in the front end too
 

cestlaviethree

New member
The only plan I have for the front diff is to build up the half shafts, and maybe consider a Solid Axle swap down the road. What's the going recommendation on the front diff to keep it going?
 

cestlaviethree

New member
I know it sounds hypocritical but I'm still under the impression the front will handle the work load I'm going to be asking for. Plus for the time being it is still going to be th e wife's grocery getter. But long term, I'd love to put a 60 under it.
 

marshal

Burrito Enthusiast
it just seems like with the amount of time that its going to be in the shop, as well as the amount work you're having done, throwing a 60 in the front wouldn't be that big of a deal or that much more money.

correct me if I'm wrong, i don't know a lot about the specifics of GM products - but i think the 1 ton trucks have a larger front differential and half shafts than the other variants. thats money right there.
 

mccustomize

Explorer
The 3/4ton and 1ton front diffs are fairly strong as is, so are the shafts. It's a 9.25" ring gear and 33 spline elsewhere, RCV's are always an option and for an overlanding rig the GM 3/4 ton IFS with RCV's and upgraded steering components, a set of uniball upper control arms will be bulletproof. Yukon even makes chromo stub shafts for the diff.

I know you hear "with all that work just put a 60 under it, it's not that much more work" when indeed it is, and a lot more money. I am roughly $5000 into my solid axle swap and that does not account for any labor, since I've done it all myself.

The IFS is going to be fine for what you are going to throw at it and ride way better. Not to mention with a solid axle swap you are looking at a height increase of at least 5 inches, which does not sound like it fits in to the plans for your suburban.

I look forward to seeing the build!
 

legendaryandrew

Adventurer
Agreed. My IFS is so much nicer to drive than my solid axle truck lol. I upgraded all the steering components, and thus far it's been reliable.
 

Klutch7

Member
Very interested to see how this turns out! I have always loved Eric's work and would love a lowered Tahoe with a DMax in it for a DD. Any reason why you went with the LMM over the LBZ? I know he figured out how to swap the LBZ into the newer trucks. Is it more cost-efficient since you don't have to delete the emissions parts?

Nice color 'Burb, too! That's one of my favorite GM truck colors behind Sheer Silver.
 

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