E350 Long term rust prevention and Polyurethane insulations tips wanted....

[ricardo]

FYI: Typical Minnesota rusty bucket van...

Sorry I'm sure this have been ask a million times already (but I may have a good idea too)

What is the best product, method to stop the rust from eating my newer van (is already half eaten in some places)

I love POR 15 but the amount I will need will cost me more than the van itself, I don't like the "Oils" I want something "Solid" after I'm done removing as much rust as possible (Minnesota van you know)..

Second on the sprinter forum I have seeing some really sad pictures of vans that use polyurethane foam and the panels "Canned" like crazy, i'm sure the steel on the E350 is much thicker..
My funky idea, the main critic about the polyurethane is that is Hydrophilic, ergo will end up rusting the toe kick panels (the very bottom of the panels)
So my silly idea is to install "Whipping tubes" (The tubes the use on the outside of foundations, that is full of holes but has a mesh to prevent the dirt from coming inside (on the top and sides will be covered by the expanded foam), the concept is very basic, the Bottom of the panel will be fill by the Tube so no space for the wet dirt/dust to accumulate, then with some holes drilled on the metal the water will drop out the vehicle..

kick my butt if is stupid, but I don't think is a half bad cook concept..

This is my procedure so far, but I welcome all the sound advice I can get..

I already have the small poliurahen kit ready to go..


Please tell me if I'm missing a step or i have a obvious misconception

1) take all the plastic cover panels.
2) dust off as much as possible
3) gatter the collection of candy rappers mix it with dirt
4) power wire brush the inside of the walls
5) apply the "Anti rust" chemical and paint on top for added protection for the metal.
6) install the "Drainage tubes" (or whatever is the best solution to avoid stagnant wetness and moisture accumulation.
7) save "Channels" for stereo components and whatever other wires, tubes or fixtures will bring long term benefits.
8) Spray the Polyurethane foam as thick as the inner wall permits.
9) trip the over spray (over grow)
10) Install plastic panels back and enjoy winters with out the engine running.

I'm sure I'm missing something, help please.

 

[Stevemo]

Which one is the new one? Do not use expanding foam, it traps moisture against the inside of the body. That is why Dodge had such a bad problem with their pick-up truck beds rusting out so quickly.

 

[ricardo]

Which one is the new one?

The burgundy is the newer one, the white one is a 7.3 that i'm going to sell..

Do not use expanding foam, it traps moisture against the inside of the body. That is why Dodge had such a bad problem with their pick-up truck beds rusting out so quickly.

I have seen the foam mention so many times on the sprinter forums that I assume it was fine, but I was worried about water retention so i came up with the idea of the pipe full of little holes..

thanks for the heads up

Ps: I try and sometimes repair a bunch of older windsurf board and I'm well aware of the capacity of the polyurethane foam to hold water (forever actually)

 

[canuck 1]

use a closed cell foam

 

[Stevemo]

The burgundy van will be a challenge, it would be best to cut out the rust and install patch panels. In Ontario where I'm at they would require the patch panels to be welded in to pass a safety inspection. The old way of doing it would be to cut out the rust and use some sheet metal screws to hold on the patches. The sneaky way would be to spray foam the cavities, sculpt the foam after it hardens, and paint over it with body colour.

Using the foam on the inside wouldn't pose a risk for rust, just on the outside and cavities that rain and road splash can get into. You will definately want an RV rated smoke alarm and RV rated CO alarm. There doesn't seem to be a combo RV rated smoke/CO alarm on the market.

 

[ricardo]

The burgundy van will be a challenge, it would be best to cut out the rust and install patch panels. In Ontario where I'm at they would require the patch panels to be welded in to pass a safety inspection. The old way of doing it would be to cut out the rust and use some sheet metal screws to hold on the patches. The sneaky way would be to spray foam the cavities, sculpt the foam after it hardens, and paint over it with body colour.

First Minnesota those nt have any kind of safety inspection, Personally i find it ridiculous, how idea how many cars are driving around with fully corroded brake lines and stuff like that..

On the burgundy van I'm only worried about the inside that is 100% rust free, I already wire wheel the whole floor and the lower part of the sides and is totally sound..

The outside rust i will fix the minute I get my mig welder set up, i have done a few patches, i'm confident I can tackle this ones..

Using the foam on the inside wouldn't pose a risk for rust, just on the outside and cavities that rain and road splash can get into. You will definitely want an RV rated smoke alarm and RV rated CO alarm. There doesn't seem to be a combo RV rated smoke/CO alarm on the market.

Oh totally understand, to clarified I just want to improve the R value and sound dampening on the inside of the van (I'm rebuilding it from the ground up on the inside, Nothing fancy, in fact actually nothing since I'm going to used it mostly to carry and move big items, but I will like it quiet and also prolong the life of the interior as much as feasible

Their is no rust on any of the inside metal (well at the bottom of the seams because the water is prone to accumulate, the van was a family van, but they live a few miles into a dirt road, you can not imagine the amount of "Dust/dirt" inside the panels..

For comparison the white one was a work one, Looks like they dis sheet rock or something very dusty and they are patches of corrosion everywhere the dust got to accumulate..

I plan to lift the front end of the burgundy as much as possible and use a Power washer to clean to the very last corner (then again is getting to be winter here and maybe the water will take to long to evaporate if ever..

Maybe somebody has a better suggestion of a cleaning method, I try leaf blowers of all kinds but the dust is so fine those not get affected by the air....