Early ‘99 F-350 Powerstroke work truck turned expo rig, with some work truck in there still!

yamaha225

New member
I think it’s about time I post a build thread for my early ‘99 PSD Super Duty. I’ve been a long time lurker here and would like to document my upcoming build and get input from the community, while giving some knowledge back as well. I’ve been in the off-road scene since college about 12 years ago. I have a ‘97 Jeep Wrangler TJ that has seen more than its fair share of use and abuse. The Jeep is due for a rebuild but since I’ve moved away from off-roading for the sake of off-roading, and more into overlanding, the truck is going to be built first.

I bought the truck about eight years ago. It’s a regular cab, long bed with the 4r100 automatic, the 7.3 PSD, lariat trim, and had 73,000 original miles. Unfortunately, I found out after I bought it that is was a bit more crusty than I thought. New England trucks usually are as many of you know. The bed was shot which I knew, but it turned out that the rear frame was really bad as well. I knew it needed the spare tire crossmember replaced, but when I got in there, I ended up replacing about 2 ft of each frame rail too. I did that work right after I got it and the truck has been a workhorse ever since. About 4 years ago the 4r100 took a dump at about 100,000 miles. Since I was never a fan of it anyways, I took the opportunity to manual swap the truck. Most people with 7.3 superduty’s would swap in a ZF-6 since that’s what would have come with the truck. However, at least in my area, ZF-5’s are way easier to obtain, and about $2,000 less expensive. I got a used ZF-5 for $700 with similar mileage to the truck, and proceeded to swap it in. The ZF-5 actually swaps into superduty’s quite easily and I’d do it again. The 6 speed would be nice but it’s not worth the money to me. If anyone is interested in the swap details, let me know and I’m happy to post more information! Not too long after the manual swap, the truck pulled our 32’ tri axle tiny house across town about 7 miles. At the time (mid completion) I would estimate it weighed around 15,000 lbs. I wouldn’t have wanted to pull it much farther, but the old girl did it without complaint.

This spring when it came time for it to get its yearly Maine inspection sticker, it became clear it needed more rust work. Since I needed the truck, I did more patch work. At the same time I built a quick wooden flatbed for it so I could finally get rid of the rusted out original bed. I made some metal skirts for the bed so it didn’t look quite as bad as many wood beds, and I think it came out pretty well. The truck has been in use since then and is working as well as ever.

However, over the past year, I decided I wanted to build the truck and do it right. Ultimately it’s a low mileage, 7.3 and is a desirable truck. I love the truck, but I hate how crusty it is and want to have a good start to build an expo rig on. To that end, I picked up a really clean frame from Truck Country in Willimantic CT, as well as a clean sterling 10.5 for the back, and a clean Dana 60 for the front. My axles are good mechanically, but are so rusty it’s hard to work on them. I got the frame sandblasted and I’m super stoked with how it came out. It’s all painted and ready to go. Next up is painting the axles and building a rolling chassis. Then I’ll start swapping my motor, trans, transfer case, and cab onto it. Somehow my cab is still really solid so I’m going to put rockers and cab corners on it and run it. Then I’m going to build a 3 or 4 point mounted flatbed similar to Idasho’s. Lastly, I plan on building a hard sided camper for it. The goal is something that could be quite comfortable for full time use so it will have a shower, kitchen, toilet, etc. to start with though, the truck needs to be built. I’ve put some photos below of the truck. Most of them are from the frame repair and bed build this spring. There are also a few of the new frame after sandblasting, after paint, and also of how I got it home. Have to be creative when you don’t have a car trailer. The guys where I bought the frame thought it was quite funny that I showed up with a boat trailer. More to come once I get some time to work on it!
 

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ITTOG

Well-known member
As they say, use what you got. I have used my boat trailer a lot to pick up 20'+ sticks of steel tubing.

I look forward to following your progress.
 

yamaha225

New member
I haven’t had a lot of time to work on the truck build, but I’ve been doing a lot of planning and shopping for parts. In particular I’m trying to figure out what I want to run for a tire and wheel set up on this. The truck has factory 3.73 gears, which with the ZF-5’s overdrive ratio and the 285/75-16’s I have on it now, puts the highway RPM a little higher than needed for the 7.3’s powerband, especially with a tuner. As such, I’d like to go up a bit in tire size, but I don’t want to go too far and have to regear. I’m considering 285/75-17’s with some method 17” wheels. Those work out to about an inch larger than what I have now, which isn’t really as big as I would like. 285/75-18 is closer to what I would like and some of the tire options have great load ratings. The problem is that the methods I like are only available in 17”. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good tire and wheel set up for this truck? I’d also love any feedback on the correct backspacing for this truck since I’m not sure what will fit the best with the leaf spring front suspension and not rub.
 

andy_b

Active member
I haven’t had a lot of time to work on the truck build, but I’ve been doing a lot of planning and shopping for parts. In particular I’m trying to figure out what I want to run for a tire and wheel set up on this. The truck has factory 3.73 gears, which with the ZF-5’s overdrive ratio and the 285/75-16’s I have on it now, puts the highway RPM a little higher than needed for the 7.3’s powerband, especially with a tuner. As such, I’d like to go up a bit in tire size, but I don’t want to go too far and have to regear. I’m considering 285/75-17’s with some method 17” wheels. Those work out to about an inch larger than what I have now, which isn’t really as big as I would like. 285/75-18 is closer to what I would like and some of the tire options have great load ratings. The problem is that the methods I like are only available in 17”. Does anyone have any suggestions for a good tire and wheel set up for this truck? I’d also love any feedback on the correct backspacing for this truck since I’m not sure what will fit the best with the leaf spring front suspension and not rub.
I have the same truck but with the ZF-6. I've also added a KC300x, PHP, and supporting mods so power is not an issue.

My wheels are the Method 701HDs in 18x9. These have the higher 4500lb weight rating. Method has expanded their HD options since I got my wheels, just make sure they have HD in their model name. I'm using Toyo RTs in a 285/75-18. In order to clear the front leaf springs, I am running 25mm spacers to increase the offset.

I'll go ahead any say that you are going to be overweight. Think carefully before putting in as much work as you're considering. The OG Super Duties are one of my favorite trucks but once you're done, it will still be loud, smelly, and lacking in cargo capacity.

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Not sure why I don't have better pics of the wheels.

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Current setup
 

yamaha225

New member
Thanks for the info on the wheels and spacers. That’s very helpful. Do you have any suspension mods or do the tires clear with stock leafs? One of the other reasons I was looking at the 17” methods versus 18” is the backspacing. For some reason they’re different and I figured I would need a spacer to run them.

I also have a PHP, MBRP 4” turbo back straight pipe, and the 6637 filter. So far I’ve kept the turbo and sticks stock but I may do something there down the road.

The weight subject is certainly something I have thought about extensively. I think the ultimate solution is going to be keeping the camper, and everything attached to the truck, as light as possible. Being a regular cab, the truck currently weighs somewhere around 6,700lbs. That was with the factory bed, a toolbox with some tools, and me in the cab. With the 9,900 GVW, that gives me somewhere around 3,200 to work with if I want to be within GVW. I need to weigh the truck as it sits to see what it is now with the flatbed I built. I do plan on going with an aluminum flatbed like you have, but I’d like to do a 3 point mount which will add some weight.

While I agree that it’s always going to be loud and smelly (I like the loud part tbh), modern SRW F-350’s don’t have a ton more payload. It looks like a 2019 F-350 6.2 gas SRW regular cab has a GVW of 10,400 and a curb weight of 6,531 for a payload of 3,869. Since that’s only 700 lbs more and I can’t really afford one anyways, even without a diesel, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to me.

Ultimately this is the truck I have and while I don’t have a huge budget, I do have time to put into it. Also, while I know this is controversial, I’ve hauled substantially more than its payload without issue. It has had a yard and a half of crushed rock in the bed which was likely around 4,500 lbs. The rear springs were nowhere near the bump stops, it had good stopping power and handled it well. So while I know that’s not within the rated limits, I think the truck is up to the task. I do certainly plan to stay within the tire/wheel ratings, and I’d like to stay within the axle ratings. From what I’ve read online, if you’re within those, you are relatively safe.

Out of curiosity, do you know what your rig weighs with and without the camper? It’s an awesome rig by the way. I read your thread a while back.
 

andy_b

Active member
Thanks for the info on the wheels and spacers. That’s very helpful. Do you have any suspension mods or do the tires clear with stock leafs? One of the other reasons I was looking at the 17” methods versus 18” is the backspacing. For some reason they’re different and I figured I would need a spacer to run them.

I also have a PHP, MBRP 4” turbo back straight pipe, and the 6637 filter. So far I’ve kept the turbo and sticks stock but I may do something there down the road.

The weight subject is certainly something I have thought about extensively. I think the ultimate solution is going to be keeping the camper, and everything attached to the truck, as light as possible. Being a regular cab, the truck currently weighs somewhere around 6,700lbs. That was with the factory bed, a toolbox with some tools, and me in the cab. With the 9,900 GVW, that gives me somewhere around 3,200 to work with if I want to be within GVW. I need to weigh the truck as it sits to see what it is now with the flatbed I built. I do plan on going with an aluminum flatbed like you have, but I’d like to do a 3 point mount which will add some weight.

While I agree that it’s always going to be loud and smelly (I like the loud part tbh), modern SRW F-350’s don’t have a ton more payload. It looks like a 2019 F-350 6.2 gas SRW regular cab has a GVW of 10,400 and a curb weight of 6,531 for a payload of 3,869. Since that’s only 700 lbs more and I can’t really afford one anyways, even without a diesel, it doesn’t make a lot of sense to me.

Ultimately this is the truck I have and while I don’t have a huge budget, I do have time to put into it. Also, while I know this is controversial, I’ve hauled substantially more than its payload without issue. It has had a yard and a half of crushed rock in the bed which was likely around 4,500 lbs. The rear springs were nowhere near the bump stops, it had good stopping power and handled it well. So while I know that’s not within the rated limits, I think the truck is up to the task. I do certainly plan to stay within the tire/wheel ratings, and I’d like to stay within the axle ratings. From what I’ve read online, if you’re within those, you are relatively safe.

Out of curiosity, do you know what your rig weighs with and without the camper? It’s an awesome rig by the way. I read your thread a while back.

I have custom leafs by Alcan and 2.5" shocks by ADS. The wheels plus a 25mm spacer got the offset correct to clear the springs.

I should be more clear - I think an expedition camper like this should be on a 550/5500 series chassis.
 

yamaha225

New member
Do you have a weight on your rig? I agree that a 550 chassis would be nice, but if you keep the weight down to a reasonable amount for a 350, I don’t see why that won’t work. I certainly don’t expect to build a 5000 - 6000 pound camper and throw it on there, but a 3500 pound camper is totally reasonable and there are loads of people doing it. Idasho has a ton of miles on his setup with a 350.

I also plan to tow a small enclosed trailer for gear if we find we need to take more stuff than we should put on just the truck.
 

andy_b

Active member
Do you have a weight on your rig? I agree that a 550 chassis would be nice, but if you keep the weight down to a reasonable amount for a 350, I don’t see why that won’t work. I certainly don’t expect to build a 5000 - 6000 pound camper and throw it on there, but a 3500 pound camper is totally reasonable and there are loads of people doing it. Idasho has a ton of miles on his setup with a 350.

I also plan to tow a small enclosed trailer for gear if we find we need to take more stuff than we should put on just the truck.

Fully loaded, it whole truck tends to be between 10k - 11k. I don't have a weight on the shell alone as logistics weren't on my side when I picked it up. Our circumstances has us taking pretty short trips - it would be even heavier if we were carrying enough kit to last for weeks to months at a time.

I agree that many people have put far heavier campers on and have done fine. I am not a member of the "you'll explode at GVWR + 1lb" camp; I mentioned it because despite my best efforts at keeping it light, it wasn't. I think most people end up in that camp. Many don't even realize and as a consequence, it doesn't bother them. Since I tried to keep an eye on it, the fact that we are heavy gives me some anxiety that I wouldn't otherwise have. I am hoping to provide some experienced-based insight for others who are considering a build like this.
 

yamaha225

New member
Thanks very much for the insight! I’d love a 550 and I have considered it, but it’s just not in the cards right now. If I can keep it to 10,000 - 10,500 I’ll be more than happy and feel perfectly comfortable driving it. Like I said, I plan to utilize a small enclosed trailer for gear if needed to take weight off the truck. We’ll see how it works out!
 

yamaha225

New member
Well it’s about time I provided an update to this thread. About a month ago I dove head first into the rebuild of the truck side of this project. I had gotten about as much prep done as I could before tearing the truck apart, so I finally had to commit.

I put the truck in one side of my two car garage, and staged the new frame in the other side. Then I began the disassembly. Currently both axles and all suspension parts are out of the truck. I have also pulled the transmission and transfer case. This weekend I’ll be pulling the motor. Then once the motor is out I’m going to support the cab and drop the frame out. Since I don’t have a car lift, there will be some creative lifting involved. Basically the plan is to get the frame and cab as high as possible and then support the cab. Then I’ll drop the frame out, pull it out of the garage and roll the new one back in under it. All avoiding moving or lifting the cab.

The new frame and axles are all assembled into a rolling chassis and ready to go back under the truck. Here are a few pics of the current status of things. I’ll try to grab a few more this weekend.

If anyone has any 7.3 experience and suggestions on maintenance to do while the motor is out I’m all ears. It has about 111,000 on it, but anything I can do while it’s out I’m open to.

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andy_b

Active member
...

If anyone has any 7.3 experience and suggestions on maintenance to do while the motor is out I’m all ears. It has about 111,000 on it, but anything I can do while it’s out I’m open to...
What exactly are you wondering about? Virtually every job will be easier with the motor out from under the cab. The obvious answer would be to address leaks on the motor (eg - turbo pedestal, the fuel bowl, etc) at a bare minimum. Other “upgrade” type projects like the up-pipes and turbo will also be super easy to do with the body off. Your only limits are time and budget lol.

Also, doing the Hutch and harpoon mods in the fuel tank will also be a lot easier without the body on.
 

ExpoMike

Well-known member
Having pulled the cab off a frame in the past, get some car dollies and remove the wheels. Put the dollies under the rotors/drums to slide it out from under the cab. This way you don't need to have the cab as high off the ground, to slide the frame out from under. Good luck!
 

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