Econoline E350 Quigley 7.3 - engine removal to the front - need advice

[derjack]

Hi folks,

I have (or my mechanic) an issue with the engine removal of my E350 Econoline 7.3 IDI Quigley.
http://www.derjackistweg.de/engine-swap/

The engine should go out to the front. As you can see everything has already been removed. Though it´s not possible to lift the engine high enough, due to the oi sump to lift it above the front engine mount.

Problem is: At this stage, my mechanic is moving from "an easy swap" to a big amount of labor costs, is he needs to totally remove everything ...
Looks like no chance to to remove with the oil sump in place. To remove the oil sump (+ oil pump etc) itself you also need to lift the engine at least 15cm or 6 inch. And from that point on it gets dirty and tricky. For installation I would need to install the engine with an open bottom end- not a good idea.

Has anyone a better idea, made out of any experience? My guys tried with a fork lift and failed. The fork lift lifted itself, when tried to lift the engine :Wow1: Though that´s not the main issue at the moment.

Any advice to get the 7.3 out?

 

[ujoint]

Just responded to the thread on the SMB forum...

You need to get the boom as close to the block as possible so you have the most travel and then the engine can tilt forward to slide the pan forward over the x-member.

Also a good idea to get the main wiring harness loose and pulled up towards the windshield so you can get that extra travel up.

 

[spencyg]

I've removed the 6.9 from my van once, and that was enough for a lifetime. Both seats out of the front and the doghouse removed helps. It was a couple years ago so I'm a bit foggy on the specifics, but I can tell you there was an engine crane coming in from the front and a floor jack holding up the sump during that critical phase when trying to get the sump to clear the cross member. Once the cross member was clear, I was able to get the crane boom in very tight to the intake manifold and then SLOWLY move the engine forward, literally inch by inch. I am a well seasoned amature mechanic, having built many cars and trucks from the ground up and I still had nearly 40 hours of wrenching into the project before the engine was free. I'd love to tell you it was much easier going back in, but that would be a lie. For re-entry I had a fork truck which helped immensely, and it still sucked. I couldn't have afforded to pay a mechanic what they would have charged to pull the engine and replace it....at typical $75/hr small shop rates I would have been in it for thousands upon thousands of dollars.









Best of luck.

SG

 

[derjack]

@Chris: I noticed your response, thanks. That lets me hope ...
@spencyg: looks terrible for sure. Though a gen 3 van has a different frame, not sure if this makes things easier or worse.

I think an engine lift, disconnecting tranny, and tilting sounds like the way to try.

 

[TinkerGnome]

If you loosen your body mount bolts and disconnect your steering shaft. You can lift the front of the body to get another 3 to 4 inches of clearance.

 

[naterry]

Just a quick safety note-

A 7.3 PSD long block weighs ~920lbs dry. Not sure if you're leaving the tranny attached but either way I'd take note of the cherry picker's capacities and stay away from that 1/2 ton position.

 

[derjack]

I am aware of the weight. The new engine is laying next to the van, and I know Wikipedia as well ;-)

I have a 4 link air suspension at the rear, with some additional air and electric lines, making a body lift more complicated.
Monday is another try ....

 

[bdog1]

Maybe clean off the top? Filter. IP. Lines and injectors. Intake.

Get some extra clearance that way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[FordGuy1]

We use the OTC adapter for the hoist and they come right out.