ejs262's Suburban(s?)!
- Thread starter ejs262
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Is Anti-Seize a lubricant, abrasive, or both?
I'll flesh my personal bias at the outset - being a heavy diesel mechanic for a time, and mechanically inclined my entire life, I use Anti-Seize wherever I can. If it has threads and it's not part ...
mechanics.stackexchange.com
The scientific debate, hotly contested in certain forums
6:20 mark from the oracle
The World of Anti-Seize
Anti-seize lubricants are specialty lubricants that reduce friction between threaded and mated metal parts as well as prevent corrosion and seizure of parts under pressure and at temperatures well beyond the performance of conventional lubricants.Esse
www.crcindustries.com
“Encapsulated silica dioxide”
“Mark why would they go through the hassle of putting it in a separate container if was the same stuff?!”
Settled for me in my high school auto shop class by Mr Pantle.
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Copper Anti Seize Grease & New Firearms
www.glocktalk.com
The first link above is pretty good
Yes the Metallic elements are softer on the Kuhl scale but nobody I know would walk up an toss a handful of metallic flakes into a rotating assembly. Shrug, you do what you want.
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Copper Anti Seize Grease & New Firearms
The first link above is pretty good
Yes the Metallic elements are softer on the Kuhl scale but nobody I know would walk up an toss a handful of metallic flakes into a rotating assembly. Shrug, you do what you want.
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Thanks for the info. I'm going to read both threads extensively when I get a minute.
I think in this case, it should be fine, as noted earlier, the adjusters rarely move, and when they do, it's a slow, short movement. we'll find out for sure when I take them apart for inspection.
I’m jealous that your radio mount was semi intact. Mine is all cut out. It’s low on the priority list, but I’ll eventually fix it. Thinking of using anti-seize...
I was pretty happy to see the metal there, I thought for sure I would have to find or make a patch panel, now all I have to do is replace the dash surround. I wasn't too worried about fixing it, but with the metal there, I'll find a halfway decent radio to through in and have a nicer interior.
started working on a list of things I either need to do, or acquire for taking the Pig Rig on longer trips, like to Alaska and back
one of the major things I started with was spare parts, in this case, I looked for single point failure parts that disable the truck and can't be easily rigged up or bypassed to limp home on, and then added things that can make roadside "repairs" get you somewhere where a real repair can be completed.
Parts/materials:
IGN coil
IGN module
Belts
Fuel filter
JB weld
Zip ties
Bailing wire
Electrical wire/crimps/tape
RTV
with the exception of the belts, I'm 99% sure all of that will fit into a single 7.62 ammo can, the belts might fit as well depending on how tight I can cram everything in.
but obviously, this is only half the picture, if you have parts, but no tools to install them, then you may as well not have the parts, so I'm also going to make up a tool list containing the tools necessary to install belts/coils/modules, as well as a few common wrench sizes and a small socket set, double covering common GM sizes like 3/8, 1/2, and 9/16.
one of the major things I started with was spare parts, in this case, I looked for single point failure parts that disable the truck and can't be easily rigged up or bypassed to limp home on, and then added things that can make roadside "repairs" get you somewhere where a real repair can be completed.
Parts/materials:
IGN coil
IGN module
Belts
Fuel filter
JB weld
Zip ties
Bailing wire
Electrical wire/crimps/tape
RTV
with the exception of the belts, I'm 99% sure all of that will fit into a single 7.62 ammo can, the belts might fit as well depending on how tight I can cram everything in.
but obviously, this is only half the picture, if you have parts, but no tools to install them, then you may as well not have the parts, so I'm also going to make up a tool list containing the tools necessary to install belts/coils/modules, as well as a few common wrench sizes and a small socket set, double covering common GM sizes like 3/8, 1/2, and 9/16.
The only issue with using anti seize is it tends to dry out and lose its lubricity. It will still stop things from corroding or seizing together but it may not allow the adjusters to spin very freely. I use high temp brake grease, just like on caliper slide pins thats exactly what its made for.
I'm not too worried about it right now, if I have to take it apart, later and redo it, then I'll add brake grease.
last night at work, I made another list, I began looking at things I would like to add to make trails and trips more accommodating.
The truck has an AUX battery already, but I'm not sure what circuit triggers the solenoid to allow it to be put to use.
I need some means of adding pressure to the tires when getting off the trails
Recovery gear in in the event I get stuck, which is a whole topic by itself...
camping gear to include a means of cooking food and making coffee
a water supply
communications of some kind, I'm looking into signal boosters for cell phones.
animal control (bear spray and the like)
and a charging station for go-pros, phones, and the like.
I will elaborate more on how I plan to accomplish some of these ideas as I go, but it shouldn't be too hard.
last night at work, I made another list, I began looking at things I would like to add to make trails and trips more accommodating.
The truck has an AUX battery already, but I'm not sure what circuit triggers the solenoid to allow it to be put to use.
I need some means of adding pressure to the tires when getting off the trails
Recovery gear in in the event I get stuck, which is a whole topic by itself...
camping gear to include a means of cooking food and making coffee
a water supply
communications of some kind, I'm looking into signal boosters for cell phones.
animal control (bear spray and the like)
and a charging station for go-pros, phones, and the like.
I will elaborate more on how I plan to accomplish some of these ideas as I go, but it shouldn't be too hard.
zoomad75
K5 Camper guy
For your spares I'd suggest a pair of extra lockout hubs. Any of the brand hubs can fail and they are dead easy to swap out on the fly if needed. They do fall under the better to have them and not need them than need them and not have them category. I carry a spare set of Superwinch hubs I pulled from a junkyard for $20 and keep them inside some ziploc baggies to keep the grease from getting over the other stuff. They do require carrying the right allen key to remove/install for the tools though.
As far as the aux battery relay goes, it looks like that's triggered off of the radio fuse that is hot in accy or run modes. If my schematic is right from Prodemand I use at work it's a brown/white wire that is the trigger circuit to the relay.
As far as the aux battery relay goes, it looks like that's triggered off of the radio fuse that is hot in accy or run modes. If my schematic is right from Prodemand I use at work it's a brown/white wire that is the trigger circuit to the relay.
Your aux battery should be wired with an isolator. It will allow the aux to charge but not work with the factory circuits. Any circuts you want powered by the aux should be wired directly to it bypassing the starter battery circuits. If you need to start the truck off of it just use jumper cables.
Lockouts! that's a good one, I'll pick up another set and add them to the box. won't necessarily stand you, but could make getting back to real pavement a bit of a bear, and they are stupid easy to swap.
I'm pretty sure there is a black wire, and a black with white on it right now, but, as old as this truck is, black with white could be faded brown! I'll trace it back, thanks!
There's a big solenoid on the driver's side fender that it's hooked up to, I haven't looked at the schematics yet, but it definitely looks stock. I'll look closer at it tomorrow.
zoomad75
K5 Camper guy
I went back and rechecked Prodemand as I had looked up an 85 before. Looked again for an 88 and it does not show the aux battery relay for the 350 engine. That don't mean they didn't build them that way, but the aftermarket schematic isn't 100% accurate. My buddy has my 88 GM wiring manual as we've been ironing out his M1008 (military K5) with an 8.1. We had swapped out the M1008 dash harness for an 87 gas truck dash harness with gauges. I'm off track though...
Really it shouldn't be too hard to figure out which terminal is the control side of the relay. I'd put a voltmeter on that circuit at the relay and confirm when it has power based on the key position. It will most likely be in run and accessory like I noted before. That setup is just fine if it is that way. It's pretty simple, key in run the batteries are tied together allowing both to be charged. Key off, the aux battery is divorced from the main battery thereby allowing any loads you put on the aux battery will not affect the main cranking battery. I set mine up this way originally before I wired in a 3 position rocker switch to my aux battery relay.
As far as the lockouts go, I've yet to break one in the last 2 years of wheeling (knock on wood). I've broken a stub axle and a u-joint at different times, but had I not had the spare lockouts in the spare bag, I probably would have broken one of them instead of the stub axle or joint.
Really it shouldn't be too hard to figure out which terminal is the control side of the relay. I'd put a voltmeter on that circuit at the relay and confirm when it has power based on the key position. It will most likely be in run and accessory like I noted before. That setup is just fine if it is that way. It's pretty simple, key in run the batteries are tied together allowing both to be charged. Key off, the aux battery is divorced from the main battery thereby allowing any loads you put on the aux battery will not affect the main cranking battery. I set mine up this way originally before I wired in a 3 position rocker switch to my aux battery relay.
As far as the lockouts go, I've yet to break one in the last 2 years of wheeling (knock on wood). I've broken a stub axle and a u-joint at different times, but had I not had the spare lockouts in the spare bag, I probably would have broken one of them instead of the stub axle or joint.
it shouldn't be too hard, I just haven't taken the time to probe it with the multi meter yet, I've had a pile of other more important things to deal with like brakes, driveshafts, crappy PO wiring jobs... lol. as far as it not being stock, it would really surprise me if it wasn't, it damn sure looks tied into the stock harness. if they both charge while the engine is running, then they should be a matched pair right?Edit: they being the two batteries.
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it wasn't really a question, more a statement that I'm just not sure how it's wired into the truck. I need to get my DMM out and do some probing to see how exactly it's wired, so I can ensure it's doing it's job.