Electrical Build (Dual Batt, Solar, Inverter, Charger, Panels, Fridge) LR Discovery 2

[jeegro]

Hello everyone,

This is a work in progress. I'm not a pro, but I do consider myself mostly up to date on 12v wiring. Enough not to fry my willy off anyway. Most of the components have been selected and purchased, now its on to where to layout everything, decide on wiring accessories (terminal blocks, panels, fuses) and then the appropriate connectors and wire.

A lot of what I'm doing is overkill (PWM solar would have been fine, batt monitory is not crucial) but whatever, it's fun. This Disco is mostly going to be a weekender for camping and a few extended road trips, but I'm setting the bar more towards a proper expedition vehicle.

Component Layout Mockup (wiring TBD)


Components (and links to where I purchased them)
Most of these have been selected based on general forum consensus.

Batteries: 2x Odyssey 34-PC1500 (have not bought yet, waiting on tray below to estimate fit)
Battery Terminals**: Milspec $25 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X36RILW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Dual Battery Tray: Columbia Overland Land Rover Disco II $200 https://columbiaoverland.squarespac...rover-discovery-2-dual-battery-tray-1999-2002
Dual Battery Isolator: Blue Sea ML-ACR 7622 $175 (http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Blue-Sea-7622-Ml-Series-Heavy-Duty-Automatic-Charg-p/blu7622.htm)
Battery Monitor: Blue Sea M2 1830 $187 (price went up to $225, maybe look elsewhere... http://www.hodgesmarine.com/Blue-Sea-7622-Ml-Series-Heavy-Duty-Automatic-Charg-p/blu7622.htm)
Solar Panel: Solar Cynergy Flexible 120W $119 (https://www.solarblvd.com/product_info.php?products_id=3082)
Solar Controller: MorningStar SunSaver MPPT 15A $213 (https://www.solar-electric.com/mosumpsochco.html)
Solar Monitor: MorningStar Remote Monitor $78 (https://www.solar-electric.com/mormredime.html)
Solar Remote Temperature Probe: MorningStar $25 (https://www.solar-electric.com/prosremtempr.html)
Inverter: Xantrex 600w Prowatt $160 (https://www.amazon.com/Xantrex-806-...d=1481308931&sr=8-4&keywords=xantrex+inverter)
Battery Charger: CTEK Multi US 25000 $217 (price went up, look elsewhere http://www.tunersports.com/ctek-multi-us-25000-56-674_p5950.html)
Fuse Panel (under steering wheel)**: Blue Sea 12 Circuit Switched (https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Sys...0220&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+panel&th=1)

Accessories
Fridge: Dometic CFX 65 (https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-CFX-...F8&qid=1481309067&sr=8-1&keywords=dometic+cfx)
Gauges Coolant Temp / Oil Temp / Oil Pressure gauges**: Auber (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=5_21)

Wiring Components
Relay for switched fuse panel**: 80A Solenoid (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050I94XG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
80A circuit breaker**: Blue Sea 80A (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005BI5466/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Power distro block for fuse panel under steering wheel** might replace this due to the screw type connection (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F6W4FW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Many more components TBD

Tools
Hydraulic Battery Crimper (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0114QC3OY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)


** currently installed in vehicle (previous project)

Some pics of what I've done to date
The Auber gauges were fun. I did 2 add-a-fuses on the factory fuse panel to pull in a switched + circuit for the relay, and for the dimmer (I think I wired it to headlights). I really like the look of the gauges and how well they blend in to the dash. I was not a fan of the bulky, tacky looking round gauges, so I'm glad I found Auber.


Wrapping up my engine rebuild. I had top hat liners put in! Need to put her back in, but its freezing and snowing here in the PNW


Cut and crimped the factory cables in favor of milspec


I hope this build won't just be a documentation of what I do, so please chime in if you have any suggestions, ideas, or improvements.

 

[jeegro]

My thoughts today

A panel for the rear to mount the fuse panel, solar controller, solar monitor and batt monitor on. Not a fan of plywood. Thinking King Starlite.

A clean way to distribute power from the batteries to items in the cab: 2 fuse panels, inverter, charger. I'm thinking to use a Blue Sea safety hub (https://www.bluesea.com/products/7748/SafetyHub_150_Fuse_Block) for the integrated large amperage fuse benefits and mount under the passenger footwell area. Or, regular screw type terminal blocks. Or run cables for each item to the batt, but since I'm running negative wire too.. well I'm short on firewall grommet space as it is, and I've already drilled 2 extra holes.

Modifying the CTEK charger. I thought it was to come with detachable leads, but the clamps are non removable. Nor does it have any mounting holes. I guess this unit wasn't designed to be permanently mounted. Darn. I'm thinking to cut the clamps off close to the charger, replace with anderson plugs, and create 2 sets of leads: clamps and ring terminals.

 

[jeegro]

HDPE was a great recommendation. I went with 1/2" King Starboard ... which is a variation of HDPE.

Where I'm at... still collecting the final few parts. I would like to add rocker switches so I can toggle the 6 circuits on the Blue Sea panel, however it complicates the wiring exponentially. I'd need relays, a few terminal blocks, switch panel, tons more wires, a bus bar to split 12v power off to the switches, another fuse panel for the switches???, etc. Or I scrap the Blue Sea panel (already bought it) and go for a integrated fuse or breaker panel with switches.

Since I plan to eventually add rear work lights, it'll be best that I figure this out now. anyone have any sugggestions?

Edit: after doing a bunch of research on switches, going with standard Contura switches + panels is probably the best route. https://www.bluesea.com/products/8260/Contura_Switch_Mounting_Panel_-_6_Position . I will need to switch from 1/2" to 3/8" for the HDPE panel. More to come...

edit #2: After more deliberation, with myself, it makes much more sense to do a circuit breaker panel instead of a fuse panel + contura switches + relays + a bajillion terminal blocks. Reasons:
- flippable breakers means integrated switches.
- Switches wouldn't be mounted far from the fuse panel, so the benefit, or need, of doing relays doesn't make much sense.
- Makes more sense to put a solar controller and battery charger behind a circuit breaker than a switch+relay
- breakers are easily accessible (vs having a fuse panel on the back of the panel)
- much simpler wiring

 

[autarkus]

Looks like a good setup. I'm thinking of doing something very similar might have some questions for you once I get my thoughts laid out.

The link you supplied for the Battery Monitor in the first post actually goes to the Blue Sea ML-ACR.

 

[Bigred2017]

Good Stuff. I'm still piecing together my schematics for my electrical system. I've got all the accesories, switches, relays, battery monitor and isolator. I just need to figure out my solar charging system to reduce some stress on my alternator.

 

[jeegro]

Finally getting ready to begin the project... had a slight detour as I ended up going overkill with a custom Blue Sea 360 panel. I wanted the ability to toggle circuits easily, without relays/switches, and with all the other blue seas stuff I already have, it made more and more sense to combine it all into a nice panel.

Also picked up a pair of Odyssey Group 34 batteries for under $400.

Some more features of the build:

- shore power plug, setup to an inverter relay so plugged in devices switch to shore power

First step will be wiring the battery tray which will consist of:
- ML-ACR
- Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse panel for anything that needs to be powered under the hood
- Shunt
- Dualbus wired to starter battery to easily fix the battery monitor cables
- Adding a new frame ground (parts are on order from Mcmaster)
- solar temp probe and battery charger temp probe
- 2 sets of mil-spec style battery terminals
- Columbia Overland dual battery tray
- circuit breaker to send a power feed to the SafetyHub inside the cab, which will in turn power the 360 panel, inverter, and 12 circuit fuse panel already installed under the steering column

 

[wrenchMonkey_]

and I thought I put a lot of time into my dual battery install hahah! Very impressive. Looks like you've thought of everything and no doubt you'll be pleased with the end result with all the Blue Sea stuff. They make a quality product.

So, where you putting all this?

Also, on my install, I fell in love with using the screw top posts on my PC1200's. I had MilSpec termials before, but I found I can get play with the angles of the cables going to and from the battery a bit more than with termials. You can still get 4 lugs on each post if needed to.

 

[jeegro]

Thanks wrenchmonkey. Yes.. no doubt I think I have all my bases covered. As for the screw-top batteries, I was trying to get a pair of those but since they're the "marine version" the markup was 80-100+$ per battery.

I like your welded hold-down!

As for space, I'm pleased that the battery tray I purchased has walls, perfect for fitting everything I need. Pic in next post

 

[jeegro]

Battery Tray Progress

Whipped up some panels out of 1/4" King Starboard (great stuff) to fit onto the side and rear of the tray. Fuse panel will go on the side, the rest on the back (components pictured)

Since the battery tray hold-down wasn't wide enough... I made a ghetto aluminum plate + 2 starboard spacers

Most of the components are going to be put into the rear of the truck. I gutted the flimsy interior trim and will be using some combination of aluminum angle brackets, starboard, and aluminum sheet to fit it all together. No idea yet on how I'm going to do it, as the backside of the panel goes pretty deep so I think a cabinet-like solution will be best

 

[Facethewolf]

Jeegro, that looks like a very fun weekend. It's fun to plug everything together, and get some life to the system

Sent from my SM-T230NU using Tapatalk

 

[jeegro]

Some parts from McMaster came in today. I'm going to add another ground point or two to the frame. The existing ones are all used and must be around #10 sized - not ideal for a 2/0 gauge cable.

The idea is the serrated bolt fits into the backside, is held tight by the locking thumb screw, lugs go on, and a serrated flange nut tightens them down.

 

[jeegro]

Started putting together the rear panel.

Used 1/4" king starboard, made some cut outs. This panel will then affix onto a custom aluminum trim panel (still figuring out how I'm going to do that) to replace the factory plastic panel. Piano hinge on the bottom, and thumb screws at the top for easy access

 

[patoz]

Looking good, and very clean!

 

[jeegro]

Wrapping up the dual battery tray. 150a breaker will send power to a couple fuse panels in the cabin. The PowerPost provides a convenient location to monitor voltage on the starting battery... couldn't think of anything simpler without running thin gauge wires directly off the battery. The negative powerpost I realized later is really not necessary, since both batteries share a common ground.

I spray painted the tray because the positive battery terminal is dangerously close to the tray (less than an inch). As its solid aluminum & grounded to the frame... this is a serious short hazard. Still worried about it. I might add a strip of plastic as well.

The grounding strip will actually fit beneath the battery tray. House Batt -> Shunt -> Ground Bar (frame, starting battery, fuse panel are on this)

 

[jeegro]

Here are the leads for the solar panel input. I used parallel connectors from DelCity to reduce the wires from 2 to 1. Worked really well. Crimped with a hydraulic crimper.

The plan is to mount these APP connectors up high on the rear pillar (D pillar I guess?) to remind myself these are solar only.