Electrical Work Time Dilation

carbon60

Explorer
I've pulled engines and torn them down in less time than it's taken me to run a few wires. I'm adding an Aux fuse box on one of my cars for some added circuits, worked on it for 4 hours last night and I barely got the box and circuit breaker installed, haven't even run wires yet.

Exactly my sentiment! I remember rewiring the control box on my winch. That job started mid-morning and I'm pretty sure my friend and I were at it into the wee hours. We did a really good job, though. I think we argued about the route for the main positive cable for at least two beers…

It's taken me years to figure this out, but proper tools make the job go a lot easier. I finally have a good set of wire strippers and crimpers. I wish I had known that 20 years ago so I wouldn't have to deal with crappy tools. If you plan on doing any wiring get a pair of these strippers. I have 2 now, so I have the entire range from 10ga to 28ga covered.

I totally agree with this! I have a couple of Klein strippers that seem to do pretty well. Good tools make jobs way more fun, too.

good advise.
do you have a crimper (link) that works well? crimpers seem to be $14 or $400, and while I could spend a bit more than the former, but not do enough work to justify the latter.

A friend is rewiring a 41' sailboat and got a set of these crimpers:

https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/diy-modular-crimp-tool

Seems to like them, so I will also order a set.
 

s.e.charles

Well-known member
Crimper needs to match type and size of connector. There are dozens.
For 10AWG & smaller, I mostly use an assortment of AMP SuperChamp crimpers.
Simple to use albeit require better awareness of simple mechanical task for success.


then they're definitely out of my league
 

tanuki.himself

Active member
Soldering and crimping is acceptable in some situations. Proper solder jobs require more skill, and are not as repeatable as a quality crimp. Soldered joints need good support nearby, or stress cracking can result. Personally I just crimp for most everything. Faster, and fewer burnt fingers!


I use the FASTON uninsulated crimps from RS Components1528847670029.png

plated brass. Ok, you have to buy them in minimum quantities of 100 , but they work out at about 6 pence/( cents each, and the basic proper tool isn't expensive and it folds the ends of the crimp over and down into the wire for a really good fit. Then I just heat it with a pencil propane torch and run a little solder in from the exposed end of the wire - not a highly skilled job. The larger rear crimp is to go round the end of the cable insulation and seems to do a good job of relieving stress. then cover with slip on the plastic covers or shrink wrap. The also do 90 degree versions for going round corners.

When I think of all the crap crimps i've replaced with these over the years it makes me so mad - if you are a mechanic doing automotive electrical work investing in these would save you so much money over the years, and do such a better job. The 5th wheel caravan we bought in Oz had 4 electric brakes all fitted by the dealer with those crappy colour coded crimps you buy in high street shops, and every single connection had failed - they guy we bought it from had basically been cruising round towing 3 1/2 tonnes with no working brakes. Shudder

in fact, i've carried this crimp kit with me from Oz to New Zealand to the US and still have it with me in the toolkit in the Suzuki, and i'll take it back to europe in my luggage next year. One of my all time favourite tools, along with my Bergen 1/4" socket set and Fluke multimeter.

Maybe we need to start a couple of new threads - favourite tools and worst dealer work.....although that one could run and run
 

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