Elmo's New Toy Hauler Build
- Thread starter elmo_4_vt
- Start date
I'm still looking for a trailer; of course nothing I've seen is as awesome as yours. Did you get a chance to measure the width of the center?
Thanks!
MIke
EDIT: just watched the video of you riding your small bike in there, which showed how tight it was. Definitely no way to get a big bike in there.
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elmo_4_vt
Explorer
I had thought I gave you those measurements, but looking back, it seems I dropped the ball. Sorry about that. There is exactly 32" between the two sides. I was thinking about how easily that could be expanded, and unfortuantely, it wouldn't be very easy, and most of the wood structure would have to be redone/replaced. Sorry it didn't work out, but thanks for the interest.
Don
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Don
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Damn, crash bars around the jugs are 32". So close... only 3 bolts to pull the crash bars on each side, hmmm
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rideglobally
Adventurer
thanks for sharing, i am also trying to build a small "expedition" toy hauler for my sidecar motorcycle. i will reach out to your trailer builder.
OK, I still haven't given up thinking about your trailer
Looks like for your Ford you've got 5 lugs; how hard would it be to swap parts to make it a 6 lug, so Chevy wheels would fit? Sorry if it's a dumb question, mechanics aren't my strong suit lol
elmo_4_vt
Explorer
OK, I still haven't given up thinking about your trailer
Looks like for your Ford you've got 5 lugs; how hard would it be to swap parts to make it a 6 lug, so Chevy wheels would fit? Sorry if it's a dumb question, mechanics aren't my strong suit lol
haha... Sounds like you've got the bug... And if not this one, will have one soon. :bike_rider:
As far as the lug pattern, If you tell me the specific truck you have, I can find out. I don't know much about the specifications of Chevy's. As far as the change, it would either be a new brake shoe/hub assembly at about $60, or an adapter. The later is less ideal because it changes your axle width and reduces strength a little (moving the tire centerline off of the bearing center), and is probably a little more expensive. That is the only option however if a matching hub assembly doesn't exist.
Don
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ya think
I've got an 04 Avalanche 1500, which I assume should be standard enough to have a hub assemble available. Was pondering the thought of, if I decided to get this one, swapping out the tires/wheels to match mine (18" Fuel Offroad Hostages, with 35" Nitto Trail Grappers... though I am going to go down to 33s after I wear this pair out, to give me a little more power back lol), with a spare, so the spare would be good all the way around
Here's my current trailer, a 1963 Rolite that used to be a pop-up, which someone framed out popped up and then hacked out the back end and made a ramp door.
I've had it for a year and it does OK on short trips, but I took it on a 6800 mile road trip and I about shook the darn thing apart. Too old for long hauls! So I sold it to a buddy for $500 to park at his mining claim and camp in, which means unless I want to go back to a :tent: I need to get something soon! It was a nice simple set-up, I had a hammock slung corner to corner, so I could haul my mining gear and still sleep above it while on the road.
I didn't think about having one I could put my bike in until after that road trip, but the primary use will be camping, so I could accept not being able to fit the GS in it. I just retired after 30 years in the Air Force and plan on spending as much time in the field prospecting as I can. So I figure I better get a trailer that will make me a little more comfortable than I am now
How far off the ground is the body with your setup? Do you worry about the rear receiver bars sticking out the side slightly getting caught on something? How do you use your rear jacks with that? E.g. does the jack have an adapter that slides into it welded on?
Thanks,
David
Thanks,
David
elmo_4_vt
Explorer
Hi David,
The bottom of the camper is basically about 2.5' off the ground. This gives a lot of ground clearance which is important with a trailer going off road. The bars sticking out on the rear are only about 2.5-3" off the main body. Their 1/4" steel, so I'd be more worried about what-ever they hit than the steel pieces themselves. Either way, it'd be pretty hard to hit without damaging something else. And yes, their are three jacks that I used for the trailer, that all have 2" steel bars welded onto them. Two 5000lb jacks that slide into the rear tubes, and one 8000lb jack that slides into the front of the trailer. The three of them can completely lift the trailer off the ground pretty easily for leveling or even just changing tires.
Don
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The bottom of the camper is basically about 2.5' off the ground. This gives a lot of ground clearance which is important with a trailer going off road. The bars sticking out on the rear are only about 2.5-3" off the main body. Their 1/4" steel, so I'd be more worried about what-ever they hit than the steel pieces themselves. Either way, it'd be pretty hard to hit without damaging something else. And yes, their are three jacks that I used for the trailer, that all have 2" steel bars welded onto them. Two 5000lb jacks that slide into the rear tubes, and one 8000lb jack that slides into the front of the trailer. The three of them can completely lift the trailer off the ground pretty easily for leveling or even just changing tires.
Don
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elmo_4_vt
Explorer
David,
Looks like your axle is 6 on 5.5 bolt pattern. That is a stock size pattern for Dexter axles, so the swap out would be easy and just require about 15 minutes per side.
Don
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Petrolburner
Explorer
Just went back to page 3 to see how the axle was mounted. Is it on stock leaf springs? Shocks for damping? How did you get the lift to mount the 35" tires?
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