Engine/trans skid

[ryanhewitt]

This is my first post, but have been visiting for a while to get answers. I have an 01, Wrangler that I would like to put an engine/trans skid on. I would like the product to be made somewhere besides China (U.S. preferable) , and would like to be able to still use it if I decide to go with a belly up later. I've seen what's out there:rokman, skid row, rustys, and warn. These are the only ones that I've seen that don't incorporate a long arm mount, new trans mount, etc. Any other ideas? I'm not going to be doing wheel stands and then coming down on the skid. I would just like to have some protection, especially when I'm loaded/aired down. Fortunately when my wife came down on something, it dented the pan but no leaks or interference. Thanks in advance.

 

[ChemicalToilet]

You should steer clear of the Warn, heard it's only 1/8" thick and won't put up with much abuse.

I had the Rusty's and it held up to the beatings I gave it. Having a somewhat low jeep at the time (32's and a budget boost) it got alot of use. I still have my Rusty's on there after my belly up, albeit with some modification. Depending on your fabrication skills I don't see why you can't make any of them work with a belly up. I even reused the front mounting bracket that came with the Rusty's skid after tweaking it a bit.

 

[30-284]

Take a look at Rokmen, good quality stuff!


http://www.rokmen.com/products/skid_plates/up_armor_skids/up_armor_skids.html


Donn

 

[ryanhewitt]

Thanks

Thank you ChemicalToilet for the input. That is the route I was actually thinking. Just wanted to know if a belly could be used down the road, and obviously it can. 30-284 I checked the Rokman and very nice but it looks like you have to buy the entire package up front, and I don't have that $ right now, but thanks for the reply. Chem did you raise the front of the eng. skid when you did your belly up? From what I read about Rusty's, the passenger side would be easy with the drilling of a new mounting hole, but what about the drivers side that comes down from the top? Thanks to both of you again.

 

[ChemicalToilet]

Yes the front is raised as well. It's not really as easy as drilling a new hole. I kept the drivers side as is, cut the passengers side off at the bend for the driveshaft, flipped and bent the passengers side piece, then welded it back together. The skid used to be longer too. So depending on your fab skills, anything can be made to work with anything.

Found some 'before' pics.

 

[ryanhewitt]

Thanks for the pics and words ChemicalToilet. I will be ordering the Rusty's this week!

 

[PhulesAU]

Skid Row, I've beat the Crappp outta mine and sofar have only scratched the paint!!

 

[jeepmedic46]

Rustys is good.:camping:

 

[TCM]

If your transmission is a manual then I would highly recommend the oil pan skid from AEV. It will prevent damage to the oil pan and with a manual you do not need a transmission skid.

https://secure.aev-conversions.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NTH24302AA

 

[ChemicalToilet]

Wanna bet?

 

[P89Jeeper]

Rokmen or Clayton would be the way to go.

 

[ryanhewitt]

Plate installed

Well the skid plate was in stock and arrived from Rustys' (although shipping was a bit more than I though it was going to be, $52). I did the install and everything went smooth, except while torquing one of the bolts to secure the plate to it's mount. The bolt sheared in half. Not a big deal, just replaced it, but the hardware seems a bit weak. The bolt heads and nuts didn't fit my Craftsman sockets that well. Chemical how's changing the oil with the skid in place? The hole in my plate is actually forward and to the drivers side of the pan drain, seems like this is going to be a messy job. Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[Mayne]

Rokmen or Clayton would be the way to go.

Clayton's oil skid, although very good, requires a long arm. I called and asked about it about a year ago. Terra flex has one, and I believe Kilby has one, but I think you need thier transfer case skid.


Mayne

 

[ChemicalToilet]

Well the skid plate was in stock and arrived from Rustys' (although shipping was a bit more than I though it was going to be, $52). I did the install and everything went smooth, except while torquing one of the bolts to secure the plate to it's mount. The bolt sheared in half. Not a big deal, just replaced it, but the hardware seems a bit weak. The bolt heads and nuts didn't fit my Craftsman sockets that well. Chemical how's changing the oil with the skid in place? The hole in my plate is actually forward and to the drivers side of the pan drain, seems like this is going to be a messy job. Thanks again for everyone's input.

I would call Rusty's and inquire about the location of the oil drain hole, maybe it was made wrong. Mine was exactly where it needed to be. Changing the filter makes a bit of a mess, but I always just threw some rags or absorbent mats on the skid to keep it to a minimum. Do you have a 4 or 6 cylinder? Can you take a picture of the skid installed, especially the hole?

I didn't have a problem with the hardware on mine. Can't say I'm surprised though, it seems like that skid is the only thing that Rusty's makes that people recommend, guess that might be going to crap too.

 

[P89Jeeper]

Clayton's oil skid, although very good, requires a long arm. I called and asked about it about a year ago. Terra flex has one, and I believe Kilby has one, but I think you need thier transfer case skid.


Mayne

They must have a different one now. One of my friends has one with a short arm lift.