Escape to Anticosti Island - This large island in the center of the St-Laurent golf course

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Again ! You read the title «2019» and think I procrastinated! :unsure: Well, you are right !

Hope you enjoy to read it !

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Winter 2019, on a sunny Sunday afternoon, my wife and I were staring at the province of Quebec map to decide our next overlanding destination. We first thought this exercise would be a rather simple task but having on our short selection criteria list, a very specific thing, Terra incognitas, we soon realized that our trips over the last few years made this criteria a challenge.


We reached the Eastern most point of Route 138 in summer 2016. We did the James Bay Road in 2017. The summer 2018 brought us to do the great Newfoundland loop which it was one of the most pleasant and scenic adventures that we had the chance to do. Moreover, we covered pretty much all the destination within a 620 miles radius of our city which is a suburb of Montréal. If you know your North American geography, you will soon realize, as did we, that there are not so many destinations left to reach by road that meet the concept of Terra incognitas.



And then, just like that, we saw it, as plain as a nose in the middle of a face! But we quickly understood the road alone would not help us to reach our goal because we were planning to go on Anticosti Island, right in the middle of the Gulf of St-Lawrence. We also had a burning desire to set foot on this island before it became a popular destination for overlanders since it is currently more of a hunting destination. We can say we were among the first of the Overland community to declare, «been there, done that! »

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Anticosti has a very special history. Occupied by the Natives well before the Europeans, first reported by Jacques Cartier in 1534, the Island was given to Louis Joliet in 1680 by the French king as a reward for his exploration of the Mississippi and his discovery of the Great Lakes region. Bigger than Puerto Rico and three times the size of Long Island, Anticosti is the largest island to have been owned by an individual person. After the death of Joliet the island became the property of the British Crown and then the Province of Quebec. Almost nothing happened until 1895 where it was sold for the sum of $ 125,000 to a rich French chocolate maker, Henri Menier, who made it a personal hunting reserve. To do so, Menier imported from the mainland, 220 white-tailed deer. This event was a milestone in the history of the island since, without natural predator, this cervid is now near 200 000 heads. When Menier died, the island was sold to a logging company. In 1974, the island was bought by the Quebec government and is now recognized for its hunting (apparently, it is the highest success rate for white-tailed deer hunting in North America). Many Americans go there during the hunting season. Hunting is the principal economic activity of the island well in front of the forestry activity. Recently, historians have discovered that, in 1937, the Third Reich became interested in the island and even made an offer to buy it, which did not happen, fortunately. This is a fascinating historical anecdote which cannot find its place in this chronicle.



Just like the great Québec northern territory, the government did not ensure passage in order to access Anticosti. Camping activities are still embryonic and visitors usually use aircraft / rental pickup packages on site. Going there with your own vehicle is still a marginal activity. So we had to use a cargo boat which serves the island and the isolated villages of the north coast of the St-Laurent between Sept-Îles and Blanc Sablon over a distance of about 450 mi.



We packed up our newly acquired Landcruiser HDJ100 named the "Grand Duke" and hooked up our M101 expedition trailer and drove leisurely, in 2 days, the 540mi. from our home to the port of Sept-Îles to containerize our vehicle. Although we drove this first section of our expedition several times, we couldn't stop being dumbfounded by the beauty of this magnificent road that runs along the majestic Saint Lawrence River. The weather was perfect and the nights were were lit by a beautiful moon quarter.

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Halfway, we stopped at an artisan bakery renowned for its delicious pastries to realize the owner is a childhood friend of my wife’s. It was a moment filled with emotion to meet a person so loved but forgotten so far from home.
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Containerizing our vehicle was an amazing step. Generally dedicated to overseas shipping, I had a hard time believing I would ever need to insert my vehicle in a container to reach a destination that is in my own country. While sitting on the edge of the dock, I was anxious to see the crane operator maneuver to load my Landcruiser on board.

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The 93mi. journey on the water lasted 7:30h and we arrived on Anticosti at nightfall. After a long wait for local supply to be unloaded, we finally had access to our vehicle. Having eaten on the ship, we only had to open our RTT in a very humble municipal camping in the only village on the island where slightly more than 200 souls live in summertime.

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Due to arriving in the dark, we were oblivious to the beauty of our camping environment which was revealed to us when we woke up. We were right next to a marshland where the sun reflected among the herbs and an abundance of water lilies.

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Our breakfast having barely begun, we met our first 2 deer right next to our vehicle. This first exciting deer meeting quickly became much less surprising over the next few days as we met well over a hundred of them during our stay on the island.

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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
We packed up and went to meet the tourist guides to obtain the information required to ensure a good understanding of the island before embarking on our adventure. We learned that there was no police, no doctor, only one hardware store and one grocery store that sold food at high prices. The bank is just a desk in a tiny desk in an office.

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Then, we set off to explore the island. We enjoyed driving the tough, dusty and winding roads. The little information we got about the road as we were planning this trip turned out to be right. The road surface is essentially crushed sedimentary rock composed of sharp-edged stone that literally eats your tires! Driving on board of a vehicle fitted with an excellent tire must be done reasonably to avoid punctures of the tire side wall.

Here a tire of the Park Ranger pick-up

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Close to 99% of the main road runs through a spruce forest. I had to admit to myself that, despite the excitement of being on Anticosti, it was surprisingly but slowly getting rather annoying. This is how we set out to find a parallel route that could lead us to the shore where we could settle for the afternoon and the night.

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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
This possibility quickly presented itself to us and we took a very old logger road where the vegetation had been overrun for some years. This decision turned out to be risky, almost reckless, but so rewarding. The route taken leads us to a small cove on the northern shore of the island.

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There we found a narrow pebble beach where we set our bivouac.

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We took a long walk and we saw some seals which are very curious animals. We can confirm this since they accompanied us by following us, not too far, by the sea, over a rather long distance. The air was pleasant, the meal delicious, the night windy but very comfortable.

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The next day, we got back on the road quickly and only 200 feet further, wanting to avoid a huge fallen tree and thus deviating slightly from the path, my heavy 100 series with its trailer got stuck in a long slope covered with vegetation much wetter than it seemed. At this time and for the rest of our stay on the island, I had in mind that if a problem arose, clearly, it would result in hours of walking without being guaranteed to meet someone who could currently helps us. Moreover, depending on the problem, there was a chance that the solution could not even be found on the island! Since you are reading this, well, you will understand that we got out of this stressful moment!
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
While the previous day was devoted to relaxation, this day was dedicated to a hike in order to explore certain geological attractions that make the beauty of the island. First hike was in the «Canyon de l’observation»

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and then, we proceeded to «Baie-de-la-tour» which is a bay surrounded by two spectacular rock cliffs and its beach made up of pebbles. These spectacular cliffs are made up of countless layers of pale grey sedimentary rock. Anticosti has the most complete sedimentary sequence in North America for the Ordovician and Silurian period. The hike is between the cliff and the water on a relatively narrow beach. The impression is strange since there is a 90-degree wall on one side while the water and the horizon is on the other. Regularly, we heard pieces of rock coming off the cliff but judging by certain immense rocks lying on the beach, we had to stay alert since we knew that we could be crushed under a falling piece larger than a car while we were there.

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Then we set off to find a nice place to spend the rest of the day as well as the night. At this moment, I would like to remind you that the island is filled with deer. If you want to imagine what it is like to drive on Anticosti, it's simple, every 10 minutes that passes on the road you will see at least 1 deer if not more. They cross the road quickly, they drink water from a stream on the side of the road, they graze and get up as we pass. Then, despite our noisy approach, there are also grouses who calmly remain on the road, in front of our Cruiser. We even stop to go out and take photos when they are only ten feet ahead. These birds are definitely indifferent!
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Since the island is relatively flat, the rivers which traverse it have either created canyons or have made their way flush with the rock. This is how an excellent place by a shallow river not far from the road, presented itself to us. In spring, our location would most likely be covered by water, but in August, the water level was low and we settled on a rocky plate gently touching the water. I had to maneuver very carefully to prevent the sharp rocky stone puncturing my tires. The ground being made of immense rocky plates resting one on the other, we heard loud but muffled cracking noises under the weight of the vehicle. It was impressive. I am convinced that no vehicle has ever driven there. Our dinner was punctuated by the passage of a few bald eagles and, obviously, deer. We fell asleep to the sounds of a lone hooting owl.

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mosquito control

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We woke up on a rainy day. The road, which previously on our passage, raised a fine dust of limestone, was now pasty and slippery. The back of our Landcruiser and our whole trailer was covered with dirt, it looked like a beige and thick paste. Our coats impregnated with this fine dirt while we were handling the doors or tent covers remained impregnated until a good laundry washing once returned home.

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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Under this rain, we hiked to the iconic attraction, what pretty much always appears when doing an internet search for Anticosti, the Vauréal falls. This intermediate hike is in a canyon, on the river bed where we must regularly set foot in the water. After multiple turns, the fall is revealed, while the canyon ends there. Had the temperature been more pleasant, I would certainly have bathed there.2019-08-09.1  (12).JPG2019-08-09.1  (20).JPG2019-08-09.1  (26).JPG
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
We headed south to Chicotte.

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Knowing the Anticosti’s official maps do not show all the practicable roads, I carefully studied the internet satellite maps before we left. So we then would take a path previously saved on my tablet and headed to the “Pointe sud-ouest”.


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At this place, there is an abandoned lighthouse which was built in 1831. A sign installed nearby specifies that 200 cords of wood were needed in wintertime to ensure a minimum of comfort! Woah!

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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Not far from the light house, we found a delightful place on a rocky promontory overlooking the water. Behind us and the entire waterfront of the bay, as far as we could see were stunted conifers, bare, bleached and bent by the salty winds. It's always amazing to see the resilience of the vegetation facing the harassing nature.

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We were visited by a few curious foxes, as well as, you guessed it, deer! Being on the waterfront and facing south-west, we were able to enjoy the first sunset of our journey. Enjoying a small campfire, these moments are always filled with pleasant romance.
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
The last day on Anticosti led us to the most famous river on the island, Jupiter River, which is, like most of the rivers on the island a salmon river. We stopped where it flows into the Saint Lawrence in order to appreciate the landscape of exceptional beauty.

The beach was soft

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The sky was cloudy and gray just like the pebbles where we were but the crystalline water in the river was in shades of blue almost turquoise, characterized by the type of water running through a bed of limestone rocks. In this place lay several dozens of whitish tree trunk with their roots washed by saline water adding to the landscape an air of ruin.

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The way leading to the main road runs along the Jupiter River. In several places it overhangs the river revealing many places where we could appreciate the beauty of this river and its bed of pebbles. This forest road is without a doubt, the most beautiful of the whole island.
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David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
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We then, before leaving, spend some time around the only city of the island

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The ferry approaching

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In the afternoon, we took the ship back to the mainland after a 400mi expedition on Anticosti. At the departure dock, we also notice they take out of Anticosti, a LOT of wood !

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Unoading the 100 at Sept-Iles

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The road back home was pleasant. Mid-way, we stopped where we were now welcome to spend the night on a private property next to the Saguenay River with these impressive beautifully steep walls.

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We went to bed while the air changed rapidly. The sky was lit with incessant lightning and it ended with a hailstorm almost as big as ping pong balls. The din of this hail on my Land Cruiser made me believe that my windshield was a total loss. Fortunately, this was not the case.

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Once at home, always so grateful to my Landcruiser to lead us in remote location without problems, I took a pencil and added the route travelled on my expedition map. Then, setting my eyes on the left side of it, I was not surprised, to already consider many more expeditions, henceforth, in the western United States.
 
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Mass_Mopar

Don't Litter
Excellent write up and great pictures! Do you recall approximately how expensive the round-trip ferry was for you + vehicle? Is fuel available in Port Menier?
 

David*BJ70

Looking forward to reach the end of the world
Excellent write up and great pictures! Do you recall approximately how expensive the round-trip ferry was for you + vehicle? Is fuel available in Port Menier?

Fuel available at Port-Menier and 2 other into Gouvernment outfiter facilities (only 1 with Diesel).

As for the ferry cost, you can get inboard from several place. We embarked at Sept-iles, Was about 800$ for 2 containers and 350$ for 2 persons (round trip). Very surprisingly, it was slightly more expensive to paid for 2 containers round trip than 1 oversized container one way !

Be aware the size limitation : 6m x 2.1m x 2.1m.

Because of the this we chose to not use a RTT on the top of the vehicule and, instend, used ou trailer. The 2 containers option, and at this price, was a no brainer.
 

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