Expedition-ifying a 2000 Tundra

Since the welder is on the way, and I'm finally looking at rooftop tents and refridgerators, I thought I'd start a thread...not for what's already on the truck, but what I'm gonna do to it in the very near future.

A couple of comparisons between Canbacks and Technitops:

Canback-- ~80# (a bit more if it's stainless, which mine is), with the CG about 12" above the lip of the bed. It's the same height as the cab, it's impossible to see out the sides when it's rolled down, difficult to see out the back with the small window. Weatherproof, more or less. Easy to get stuff through the sides. Durable, more or less. Windows are poor in extreme cold, like any other plastic.

Technitop-- ~130#, CG roughly 5"(?) above the lip of the bed. 11" high closed, so I can see out the top half of the rear window in any direction. Durable plastic case is more or less "everything proof". If it's mounted over the bed, I can't get to stuff in the bed except through the tailgate. About 1.5' of open space remains at the end of the bed for easy access.

So here's my thoughts at the moment. I want a rooftop tent...and I have a big truck that I drive like it's a lot smaller. The bedsides and fenders are already fiberglass. The only reason I still have a bed (other than hauling stuff around town) is because the Canback sits on it, and two people can comfortably sleep under the Canback. However, that means the bed must be empty, which means unloading and reloading every time we make or break camp. Either that, or sleep on the ground, which is something I'd like to avoid if possible (wind, rain, snow, drainage, etc...been there, done all that, recently even).

The tailgate has been rendered useless except as a camp shelf due to the recovery ladders that sit just inside the tailgate. Otherwise, its use is around town, keeping stuff in the bed when I'm hauling things.

Properly equipped, I don't need a large box to hold everything, I need reliable access to various box-like items that are almost exclusively shorter than the bed height and can be mounted wherever expedient. A "bed-top" tent would make this difficult, and I don't want a tall truck since I like being able to fit in garages and low CG means the truck is more stable.

The rear of the truck is wide, and it's width I don't need since I don't use the tailgate, and the ladders are shorter than the gate is wide.

In other words, I don't need the bed, and a tent mounted solid to a frame over the bed would get in the way. The tailgate is unnecessary since there's something there already that acts as a gate. So, a dovetailed bed cage with a rooftop tent on a forward hinge and the recovery ladders on a hinged dropout at the tail would make for easy access to all the gear under the tent, the spare tire, the recovery ladders, and shave a significant amount of weight off the back which can go toward water, aux fuel and toys. 55# is a lot to try and lift, but a couple of those gas assist tubes would help a lot and a brace would keep it safe in the upright position. A slightly offset front pivot would allow the tent to back up right against the cab--the front of the tent drops down instead of moving forward.

The rear can be dovetailed almost 10" on each side and still maintain enough forward space for a rooftop tent, enough cargo space for a large spare tire, fuel, water and other things--almost all the cargo is carried at the front, not the rear of the bed--and still leave more than six square feet of space open between the back of the tent and the recovery ladders.

If it's bolted on using the existing holes for the bed, I can even swap the two if I want the bed back...may as well, since the bed is already trimmed to hang the glass, and a bed is handy.

The part I'm having trouble with at the moment is how to carry the bikes. I think they could ride on top of the tent, since the Technitop uses that hard plastic shell. They'd end up about 1' over the top of the cab, where most people let them ride anyway.

With this setup (sans bikes), I could do hard 4WD work in style with a rooftop tent, maintain visibility and a low COG, carry necessary items in designed space rather than splitting a box (the glass bedsides could even be hinged, so shovels and such could be accessed from the side and hidden otherwise), and essentially keep it low profile but extremely capable and comfortable.

I'll get some CAD drawings of this up later.

The truck is already "built", but not for expedition travel yet...just 4WD stuff. The new rear axle is ready in the next week or two, sez the FROR crew...pics when I pick it up :D.

-Sean
 

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
devinsixtyseven said:
So here's my thoughts at the moment. I want a rooftop tent...and I have a big truck that I drive like it's a lot smaller. The bedsides and fenders are already fiberglass. The only reason I still have a bed (other than hauling stuff around town) is because the Canback sits on it

The tailgate has been rendered useless except as a camp shelf due to the recovery ladders that sit just inside the tailgate.

Properly equipped, I don't need a large box to hold everything, I need reliable access to various box-like items that are almost exclusively shorter than the bed height
I snipped heavily. I read that and what jumps out to me is to take the bed off completely, replace it with a flat bed tray with utility boxes on the sides. Then build a rack to hold the tent where ever you want.

Like a Aussie ute tray, but maybe add locking utility trays along the side to protect your stuff from weather and theft.

triton.jpg


I'm not all that different from you, except that I have a WilderNest and that fits nicely on a stock bed. Plus having a strong rails is key to not tearing the 'Nest off when it's open. To fab anything similar would end up as or more heavy than the bed and probably be less weatherproof anyway.
 
yeah, almost exactly like that. just picture normal bedsides covering the box, and the box will only be what's necessary, and lower profile. i need the tent and a way to carry gear, and a box isn't necessarily the most efficient way to do that.

those wildernests are really nice. i used to have a snugtop, which was also completely weatherproof...weather is one of the downsides to the canback, and i've gone with ammo cans, drybags and tupperware to keep everything weatherproof and continue using the canback. fuel and water cans are weatherproof anyway, as is the tire, shovel, and other stuff...it's really just tools, tents and clothing that needs somewhere sealed and protected, if i have a rooftop tent, and that's all fairly small stuff.
 

BajaTaco

Swashbuckler
This sounds like a really cool concept. I have thought about similar ideas myself. The only part of your description that I am fuzzy on, is how you will stow all of your gear. You mentioned a "box". Would it have pull-out drawers? Or would the hinged tent open like a big lid to access the box? I would think I might want to be able to access the gear without disturbing the tent (like in the case of a multi-day camp).
 
Gear

I meant box as in the stock bed, not a gear box.

I'm actually not worried about gear storage. The major items that would stow underneath the tent would be storage for water and auxiliary fuel, with chuckwagon gear and general large camp items to the rear of liquid storage, and the remainder of the open box left for soft goods, toys and random stuff.

A standard 5gal jerrycan is about 19x7x14, or taller than the bedsides of a Yota standing up. On their sides, they fit a couple inches below the bed, and a pair leaves either space in the center or crush space at the edges. The open center would be a great spot for an auxiliary water tank. Ten cans (30g fuel, 20g water) would only require 3' from the front of the bed, or not quite all the way under a rooftop tent mounted over the bed. There would still be about a foot under the rtt, and another 3' of open space to the tailgate. A gargantuan spare tire fits at the rear and leaves about a foot of completely empty space somewhere in the mix for "stuff", plus about a 9" high space over the spare inside the bedrails. That doesnt even include the blank space from the jerrycans--they take up about 40" width at the centerline, leaving almost 10" per side, or a 20" wide blank in the center. That's enough to stow shovel, ax, hilift, camp chairs, recovery gear, tools, snowboards, etc.

The recovery ladders can either ride at the very bottom, or just under the tent. I don't think it's a problem to raise the tent for fuel, and I'd prefer water be in a dedicated tank anyway that doesn't require moving the tank for access. With water at the front (it's heavier anyway), fuel would be easy to access by lifting the tent like a tonneau cover, and if it's a multi-day camp I won't need to be digging for fuel anyway, until it's go time and then the tent will be stowed.

Here's a quick, rough autocad sketch. It's all to scale, that's a 44x51 Technitop set to open rearward, with the axle in about the correct location and the planned width, with the planned backspacing and tire size. The left shows the planned dovetail design, the right is what it looks like right now (but with the new axle and tire, stock actually sits inside the fiberglass an inch). I'll have to TRY to bounce the rear of the bed off things.

I'm gonna work at this more later, and in color, to show where I plan to stash fuel, water, and the spare tire, then fill in the blanks with tools and gear, including the passenger compartment. This is a really, really rough sketch and it's only accurate to about an inch or so.

If I do like I was talking elsewhere, water and food go in the cab, which frees up almost 2' of space along the bed. I'm also assuming that "most necessary" clothing and emergency items go in the cab, they will fit even with a fridge and water containers in the cab. Tundras have quite a bit of cargo volume to play with.

*edit* You would not believe the flaming hoops I had to jump to upload a bmp. The front axle is on the right, rear on the left, bottom is the passenger side (not dovetailed), top shows the planned dovetail.

The welder arrives in four days, and then it's soooo awwwwnnn :jump:
 
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Batteries

Odyssey has a new cell out as of last summer, it's a 1500DT...lighter than a 1700, more reserve than a 1200, and no need for liner or metal jacket. 50#, and fits (rough rounded estimate with cables) in a box 12"x12"x8". It's the same size as a group 34 cell, ie same size as a standard Optima.

They also have an electronic wall charger...it'll charge Optimas as well, and it's about the size of a large cell phone charger. There's an Odyssey-specific charger as well, only difference I think is higher current, which few batteries can handle outside the Odyssey.

How they stack up:
Battery/CCA@0F/RSV@25A/Gp/Wt
Optima/750/120/34M/43
Odyssey/825/125/34M/49

They're the same size, the Odyssey is 6# heavier...running through the numbers, the Optima just barely has the edge on the Odyssey as far as output per pound...like around 3%. With the increase in CCA and the better charge/discharge characteristics of the Odyssey, I'm going to give these a shot.
 

BajaTaco

Swashbuckler
Cool, I kind of got lost in your description, but it sounds like I will be able to see photos before too long. So you are planning to use ten jerry cans? And you will not have a passenger?
 
If I do it right, I should be able to carry at least one passenger. Ideally, three! But two would have to be smaller, like girls, or midgets, or girl midgets.

Ten jerrycans, well, ideally just six jerry cans. I'd prefer to carry 20g water in a dedicated tank at the centerline of the vehicle...under the Technitop, between the gas cans. That pushes the liquid storage forward more, and keeps a major consumable source of weight centered. Water in the rear also leaves more room for gear in the cab, the fridge will be centered low in the back seat and I think I can keep the two outer seats intact for passengers. I'd at least like to keep one seat there, and if possible keep both areas open...it's really nice to be able to put soft goods, food and drinks in the back seat when it's only two people, or carry a few friends on a short trip. I mean...riding shotgun is great, but riding next to the cold drinks in the obf might be even better.

Actually, the only thing I'm still working out is where to put the CO2 tank. It might work out to move the Technitop back enough to load the tank behind the cab (where it loads now), and have a toolbox or something spanning the remainder of the forward space.

Here's another cool item. The rooftop tent doesn't need to open sideways, it actually works out better to open backwards. It clears the tailgate even in the forwardmost position over the bed, and could rest on the aft end of the truck, allowing the whole deal to be repositioned while the tent is open. I think gjackson mentioned something about this a while back, regarding tents opening forward (mounting to the bull bar) or sideways. Also, with a privacy screen type deal, the tailgate can be opened inside the screen for weather-shielded access to the cargo area. I gotta go back and measure clearance and stowage for the 5' recovery ladders, I still think they can fit below the tent for a good, clean package and preserve visibility out the rear window. It also means I can do whatever I want with the tailgate area.

I'll get a chance to lay it out better in acad tonight...I'm psyched, the glue gun arrives Friday :D.

The attached jpg is completely not to scale, I just sketched some stuff over the acad clip using paint :p. The jerrycans are red, water tank is blue, Technitop is green, recovery ladders yellow, the spare tire is that wierd brownish greyish color.

I should wind up a little more aerodynamic from the dovetail and the low profile in the back, though it's like putting a wing on a brick and calling it aero I'll take anything I can get. With the water and fuel I should get a range of 600+ miles on-road and ten days in the desert with just myself, or five days with two. I'll make the water tank as long as possible, and losing the bed means it can actually be taller than it would otherwise, and a sump can easily be fit in the front. I'll also have to be really trying in order to carnage the bedsides and taillights.

The downside to all this is having to come up with some sort of ridiculous mudflap design for running around more "retentive" areas. I haven't had a problem yet, but the tires are still inside the glass right now. They'll be outside the glass several inches even at the front of the bed, and almost totally exposed at the rear after the dovetail. Maybe some Arctic Trucks flaps would be cool...

Oh and I got my tech callsign :jump:. One more toy to locate, buy and install...

-Sean
 
It all fits :D....and I can easily get 30g H2O right up against the back of the cab, down low. The cad I did this evening (will post tomorrow) has the water tank at 25.3g without sump and at the same height as the gas cans, but I know it can rider lower by at least 3 inches--that'd be over 30g, I could run a shower off the thing as well AND let the Technitop ride at least an inch below the top of the bed rails and still clear a massive spare tire.

Also found that a pair of Odyssey 1500s will fit on their sides about 10" back from the rear axle, under the spare and higher than the bottom of the frame rail, and out of the way of a shock hoop.

The dovetail plan is 6" on each side. There's still a huge amount of room left for things like camp chairs and drybags.

Total payload in the drawing so far (including passengers) is about 1100#. This doesn't include tools, recovery gear, food or toys. It also doesn't account for the weight loss of the fiberglass, the bed and tailgate, or the bed cage.

The truck has a max payload rating of 1790#. I'm glad I'm ditching the bed and tailgate, and already went to fiberglass. With the skidplates and rock sliders, I'll be right close to the max sprung payload weight once the truck is loaded for a long trip, including tools, camping gear, recovery equip, food, clothing, toys, and miscellany.

Autocad pic tomorrow :D.

-Sean
 

BajaTaco

Swashbuckler
I still don't know what the heck is really going on... but it sounds awesome :D Seriously though, I think I have a pretty good idea of what you mean now. This is a super cool project. You are basically designing a variant of a project that I have been mixing up in my head for a while now. The only issue of contention that I can see... is dust. With the setup as you describe, I imagine everything coated in dust and grime. Any thoughts on that?
 

RoundOut

Explorer
Fuel

Sean,

I know you already own blitz cans, but here's another idea...

As long as your blitz cans were under the tent, your tent MUST at a minimum, ride at a height of about 19-20" to clear the 18.5" blitz can.

With an auxiliary fuel cell, such as this one from Northern Tool, you could hold 37 gallons of extra fuel, and have a much lower CG. It's baffled, so sloshing isn't going to be a huge issue.

I was even thinking of this for under my box, but I'd have to find one that is 8" or less high. Our beds are plenty wide, and the witdth (front to back) is perfect for under my box, but it is too high. :-(

Gary
 

RoundOut

Explorer
Your new glue gun

Can you weld aluminum with that thing? Using aluminum would shave quite a bit more weight off the design. I hear that aluminum is harder to weld than steel, but I have no knowledge of this personally. Just a thought, and since your just talking about framing, and not bumper-type stuff, you would have all the strength you need from AL and lots less weight.
 
No aluminum with the PP180, at least not easily. The Miller guys tried it, it's frustrating at best...I might look in to ways to attach a spool gun later, but it's not a priority. I'm definately using steel for the cage, as it'll be integrated later with the rest of the truck...it's actually pretty easy to integrate the bed cage with the rear half of a cab cage, it's the front of the cab cage that's the hard part.

I have a pair of Blitz cans and would only transport them upright...I'm not sure I trust the seal. I also have a half dozen NATO cans that seal really well, that's what I'll be using as I trust them laying down backwards, same as a few people run them here on the front of their racks. Upright, they are around 19" or so and rise above the bed rail, but laying down they're only about 14". BTW 1 gallon = 231 cubic inches and I think you could get 20-30 gallons under the back of the bed, where the spare tire used to ride...but also keep in mind 1 gallon gasoline weighs on average about 6.5 pounds (water is about 8.3 pounds) at "room temperature", all the weight aft of the axle makes a big difference in handling.

I am considering an aux fuel cell, but the aux cell would contain more volume than the regular tank, and I'm not sure how well it'd work as the aux tank would be a gravity feed to the main tank. I guess a Super Siphon would work, it's definately something I'm keeping in mind and might be better in the long run than the jerrycans. In the configuration in the attachment, it would replace the space taken by the cans but would be smaller widthwise, and if the depth is increased it can be shorter in length. The more I think about it, the more I like the aux tank vs the cans, actually...hmmm. Also it would be lighter than 6 cans and associated brackets, and I wouldn't have to move anything around on a trip as long as the access port is on the left with the stock filler. It sounds like it'd be a better option, actually.

I will wrap the wheel wells, crud won't be an issue from the tires. The auxiliary tank(s?) will be sealed anyway, all it should take is a gentle hose to clean them, and there is no issue with the spare tire or recovery ladders, and I like the Technitop as it has the shell vs a soft cover. I'm thinking of doing something very simple, like plastic sheeting similar to what's used to skin rock buggies, to keep dust out/away from soft goods...or perhaps eventually a set of aluminum cargo boxes outboard of the fluid storage. My roommate and I were throwing ideas around yesterday and came up with a great solution, but I'm not gonna post it yet since you'll probably be cracking up :p.

In the attached drawing, the bed is dovetailed 6" each side--10" was a bit much I think (was crawling around the truck last night). Red is the jerrycans (or where the fuel cell would go), blue is H2O, orange is the recovery ladders, green is the tent, yellow is the battery boxes, tire is dark grey, fiberglass is light grey.

H2O is in the middle as it's densest. The batteries are a total 100#, vertically they're below the stock bed, and 10" aft of the rear axle they're clear of where the shock hoop will sit. I'm thinking of running a section of conduit up to a patch panel somewhere...someone else was recently thinking through battery relocation and cable routing, I think the conduit will make it easier/safer and the right frame rail is completely empty. If the patch panel/box is in the engine compartment, everything will seem stock including jump starts and accessory wiring, except the batteries will be elsewhere. Everything in the drawing is actually scaled this time, I rounded up an inch or so for the fuel cans to allow space for mounting brackets.

The mounting height of the tent is mostly dependent on the spare tire since it has to be able to fold out on top of the tire...at the moment I'm guessing about 14-15" above the floor of the stock bed, but hopefully the tire can be mounted lower. BTW that is "normal" backspacing on the rims--4.5" on a 9" rim. I don't think they'll stick out that far as I should be able to run a couple inches more backspacing on the new setup.
 
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The welder has arrived, it's Miller time :D.

This past weekend, I had a chance to REALLY crank on a few things, leading to some Tundra-specific 4WD observations...

Locker are really, really helpful, and I need one.

If you change your configuration to something specific to a certain kind of travel, make sure you can change it back at the end of the day to something capable of safe, legal, high speed freeway operation...whether it's your license plate bracket, tire pressure, fenders, mud flaps, sheetmetal, etc.

A few inches of additional track width--as long as it's not outrageous--really helps overall stability. I'm currently at the same track width in front as a "fullsize" axle...seventy inches...and with a 12.5" wide tire on 4.5" backspacing and 1.5" adapters the tire was maybe an inch beyond the stock TRD fender flares...it sounds wide, it's really not. I could go to 72" and deeper backspacing (actually, I am), resulting in a better scrub radius, more stability, proper bearing loads, and sufficient clearance to the frame, and still be no more than an inch beyond the stock TRD flares. For reference, stock front WMS on a Tundra is 67". What brought on this thought was a poseur shot on a small rock...the pre-05 Taco I was running with was working on a pretty good roll angle. My roll angle was nowhere near as severe.

The shackle hangers and tailpipe are both in awkward places. I can now state with all confidence that the tailpipe will definately hit first, followed by the shackle hangers, which will then put a dent in the tailpipe and provide it some support so you dont tear out your exhaust system. The tailpipe needs to be moved and protected first, followed by a shackle flip, and then a brace on the frame to prevent landing on the shackle or the rear end of the leaf spring.

The ARB Sahara bar for the Tundra is HUGE. It really puts the hurt on the approach angle, particularly compared to a stock pre-05 Tacoma. It will prevent the truck from doing anything particularly steep offroad, and limits tire size. I've griped about this in the past, but it was particularly evident this past weekend.

3/16" plate is barely adequate to land the front of a ~5000# truck (6K# loaded). The skid plates could use a couple braces on the backside to take pressure off the crossmembers and keep the skid plate more or less straight--for instance, cutting a piece of HREW tube in half the long way and putting the half-rounds down the length of the top of the skid plate. The plate is flanged up on the sides about an inch, doing something similar in the middle would go a long way to prevent the puckering and bending I caused over the weekend. Angle might be a bad idea in case the plate actually failed, as it would drive the wedge in to critical components--the tube halves would be better. I plan to do this to the engine and transmission skid plates, and later the belly skid.

Finally, I can't count the number of times I said "I wish we had a tent with us, because this would be a great place to camp."

-Sean
 

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