Expedition-ifying a 2000 Tundra

The guys at Nalgene were kind enough to send me a sample of this.

I'm going to see what I can find that reliably fits the connection. It'll make it much easier to refill the Drom bags while they're on the back seats, if I can just attach a line with a shutoff valve from a Scepter can to the quick connect.

Details when it arrives :).

*edit* Just found another piece...their bladders use a q/c fitting that looks to be the same size as the valve q/c. The trick is getting a couple of the fittings from Nalgene...help really depends on who you talk to. The first guy I talked to said he'd send me a sample bite valve kit, the lady I talked to minutes later was full of "I don't think that's something we normally do" remarks. The product manager will hopefully call me back :).

*got it* Katadyn Quick Fill Hydration Adapter, P/N 8014399, includes the male q/c piece which fits the Nalgene piece :D.
 
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It took almost exactly one gallon plus a half quart to coat the inside of the cab from the very front of the footwell to below the rear window with three coats of Herculiner. It'll be a few days until it's dry enough that I'm willing to abuse it, but it's all done and I can start putting the trim back together.

At some point, maybe not before the upcoming trip, I plan to Herculine the foot of the Hilift jack and the end of the handle, and the faces and sides of the traction ladders.

Moosejaw had the Katadyne parts and the best pricing and shipping deal, REI sells the Nalgene q/c bite valve conversion kit.
 
A few pics, finally. With the Herculiner and the blue tape, it sorta looks like there should be a fog machine, a disco ball and a laser or two in there as well.

Three layers do a great job covering everything, but take longer to dry when it's 30* in the garage :(. Hopefully I can mount the (finished!) seats tomorrow...

The door seals are back in, as are all the plugs in the floor of the cab. You can see how many holes there are--this was taken right before I plugged everything back up. All the visible holes, except for the largest four at the corners of the cab, drop through the cab and could be used to run cables/hoses/whatever.

The yellow wire loom covering the seatbelt pretensioner lines is visible at the right side front and just to the left of the steering wheel, all hanging over the dash.

The benefits to this are lighter weight and greater durability. The downside will be a noisier cab and more heat from the drivetrain in the cab...also potentially more absorbed heat during the day, however the rear windows are factory tinted and everything else will be more or less covered by seats, floor mats, and other stuff...I do intend to put the stock floor mats back in place for daily driving, and the Husky mats in for dirty stuff.

Haven't decided yet what to do with the box structure that bolts in at the rear, under the bench seat. I'd like to attack it with a dimple die and the sawzall, for starters, but for now it'll just go back in like normal, but bare.

The dirty vents at the rear of the cab, other than being cleaned, need to be sealed better around the edges, and then I'll put a filter over the openings. I think a filter sandwiched between a couple pieces of grating would take up less space and seal better, and with a dryer vent style cover--open at the bottom, like the kind on the outside of a house--will be weather resistant as well (not to mention it's already protected between the cab and the bed).

All the moulding goes back in like stock. I'll get an "after" picture when it's all back in :).
 
The "expedition seats" worked out GREAT. Ended up with a couple minor changes to the plan tho...

The plastic side moulding isn't sturdy enough to get the flashlight on and off easily...the plastic deforms rather than the QF. There is a better way...the lower front of the seat bottom is formed sheetmetal and makes a very sturdy mount. I trimmed two slots in the foam under the seat fabric to allow the QFs to mount flush against the metal and not deform the seat as much, then poked small holes in the fabric large enough to clear the bolts, put the seat covers back on (no holes in the Wet Okoles!), and put the upper half of the back of the QFs over the W/O covers. Works great, and the light can be turned on to shine outside the truck without having to take it out of the clamps.

The original plan for the water bags hung too low. I removed the upper seat section fabric (there's another wire holding the front of the seat fabric in place), and used MSR's supplied webbing to thoroughly secure one keyring to the very top of the seat frame, one carabiner on each side hanging from the frame, and one carabiner on each side down lower on the U-shaped spring sections such that the bag is supported by the four grommets on the sides rather than the top or the bottom. The top and bottom are linked by keyrings and carabiners but are only holding the bag in place, not supporting the weight like the other four. The bag fits just inside the perimeter of the cavity in the seat back, and the Wet Okole cover stretches enough to completely cover the bag and then velcro shut.

The plumbing bits arrive Friday, and then the seats can go back in the truck. The mostly finished seat in the picture is carrying a 4D Maglite and 2.5gal H2O. All it's missing is the drinking tube. The on/off lever on the Drom bag is easy to access under the velcro at the rear bottom of the seat back.
 
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RoundOut

Explorer
devinsixtyseven said:
All the moulding goes back in like stock. I'll get an "after" picture when it's all back in :).

Will you have issues with the moulding being loose where the carpet was under an edge?

BTW, those seats are BEAUTIFUL!
 
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Last pic of the day, this doesn't have much "expedition" value but it's pretty neat. This is the new rear axle, one side in mocked-up form (incidentally the service caliper is mounted on the "wrong" side...they are "reversible"). It's really all just a bunch of pieces, nothing is greased, torqued, painted, or anything yet...not even spring perches, shock tabs or brake lines.

The large grey caliper is the hydraulic service caliper. The small caliper is the parking and emergency brake. The differential is an ARB, I'll finally get to learn how to drive with a locker. I'll be making the shock mounts, running brake lines, tabs and brackets, air lines, paint and assembly...my request was for a box of parts rather than a finished axle, so I'd know how everything worked and be able to work on it myself when it's time for service.

I also intend to mount the "stock" Hellwig rear sway bar to this axle...it looks like it should fit.
 
Truck's all back together, at least the front seats are back in ;). It's not really noisier, except the vents at the back of the cab are normally behind the bench seat so the sound is blocked. Open cell foam in the vents should allow airflow and keep it quiet, eventually I'd like to put a baffled plate with a proper filter and a seal in their place, but need to pull the bed to reach the vents properly and do it right...a couple nuts tack welded to the outside, with a basic paper, gauze or foam filter sandwiched between two pieces of sheetmetal with holes drilled in them, and an "exterior dryer vent" sorta cover on the outside and inside, similar to stock, to keep water out. That won't be until later this summer :p. Incidentally, Polyperformance sent me some open cell foam today...it had a bunch of D-ring tiedown loops packed around it :D.

The seats with the water bags work out great when driving...all I have to do is reach over my shoulder and grab the bite valve off the magnet...no fiddling around. Already drained the bag on the driver's seat, actually...really, really handy, no more Nalgene bottles rolling around loose in the truck.

It still smells strongly of Xylol (the base for Herculiner).

The frame for the box section that the rear bench sits over will make a great place to stash small stuff, or lash coolers/bags/water jugs in place. Eventually I think they'll make a great place for sliding drawers.

The D-ring tiedowns look like they'll be a great addition. They'll be attached with 3/16" grade 8 bolts, underneath the bed, with a hole cut for access to the D-ring. They're really sturdy, and larger than I expected. They also are predrilled with a drain hole. The large, square versions fit almost exactly within the profile of the two large corrugations running the length of the bed. Four of these are arranged such that the spare tire can be lashed to the bed using the tiedowns.

At the front of the bed, three 5gal jerrycans fit in front of the wheel well, and don't rest beneath the window. Two more D-rings fit in the corrugations to the inside of the jerrycans to lash them in place. I've arranged the tire tiedowns such that they'll keep a 37" tire in place--tested it with a 37" Krawler--but clear the recovery ladders and cooler.

The cooler fits almost exactly between the 37" spare and the jerrycans, and will be lashed down using the tiedowns already in place for the tire and jerrycans. The Hilift fits perfect on the right bedside, clears the jerrycans...guess it will live there after all.

The tailgate will stay in the garage for now :). The recovery ladders are lashed to the factory tiedown loops at the tail end of the bed, inside the bulge in front of the tailgate, so there's really no reason to use the tailgate when everything else can be completely secured in the bed and can't fit through the holes in the recovery ladders. Plus, I can see through the ladders...not so the tailgate :). Voila, another 47# off the truck, and now it weighs about the same--within a couple dozen pounds--of what it did before loading for the last trip (if not actually lighter), but it's much more capable and better protected, I won't be carrying as much STUFF, and the weight is much, much lower on the truck.

Bonus Batter: The X-Jack looks like it will fit perfect over the spare tire. With a tarp (or something) over the X-Jack and tire, both will be protected from dust, rain, mud, snow, sunlight, and prying eyes.

Even the toolbox can be lashed down, and will be more or less hidden in the space between the jerrycans and the cooler (probably also a great place for dirty shoes, wet clothing, trash, other random stuff...a bit of an oubliette, while stuff will be out of sight to everyone else, I may forget it as well. Some of those tools can be secured inside the cab with mini-quick fists now, they are just about exactly the right size to hold 1/2" drive wrenches. I just need to figure out where to stash the crowbar...probably near the shovel.

The second cooler will ride in the cab, possibly also the (hopefully) two Scepter 5gal water jugs, all lashed to the frame in the back of the cab and the three tiedown loops under the rear window. I think there will still be plenty of space for drybags, backpacks, duffle bags, sleeping bags, tents, and miscellany...lots of room still in the bed, just not all of it is in a lashable area at the moment. Fortunately I have almost a dozen of these D-ring tiedowns to work with :D...

Gotta pick up a hole saw, a tarp, and some rope. The space inside the spare tire will make a great storage location for small recovery gear, particularly since it'll be wrapped in a tarp with the X-Jack over top--rope for impromptu chains, Lift-Mate, tow strap and other stuff.

Pics this weekend :D.
 
pskhaat said:
Why is it that you need a new rear axle?
Building up the Tundra axle would mean a disc brake conversion kit, an ARB locker and regear, full float kit with stronger shafts, diff armor and axle brace...in other words a lot of time, effort and money. The jump to a new rear axle was not much in comparison, and now I have thicker axle tubes and diff housing, more clearance under the housing, nearly unbreakable differential and axles, the diff will run cooler, fluid will never leak out of the diff down the axle tubes, the driveshaft will be up and mostly out of the way, the ebrakes should be effective enough (much more so than the "hat" style internal parking brake, or spot calipers) that eventually they can be used as cutting brakes, the bearings are easily servicable, the entire housing end to end is regular mild steel and thick enough to mount tabs and brackets as necessary as I see fit, which will make it easier to run the shock configuration I'd like...there's probably more but OTOH I can't think of anything else.

I'd also like to run a larger tire, and rather be overbuilt than worry about breaking something in very difficult terrain. 37s are the current plan, they will fit in the rear and will fit in front with a few caveats. I still have stock-class IFS...granted it's about as strong as it can be, but I think with clever driving and reliance on an overbuilt rear axle it'll be able to continue down the trail easily with 35s and with some caution on 37s. The hubs can be opened, the rear end will be locked, and climbs rely more on the rear axle for traction than the front, so even in 4WD the rear axle will take more of the load and the front drivetrain should be relatively safe.

I do plan to put a matching proper axle in the front, eventually. The IFS is about as built as it can realistically be...the truck never sees high speed dune time, but it would probably do just fine, minus the things that require long travel as it's only built as medium travel IFS.

If I had a 100 series drivetrain ;), I wouldn't bother with any of this, but I don't. The front diff in my Tundra is the original late model 7.5", plenty of Tundra owners have wrecked their front diff just spinning the front tires in sand and snow with a bone stock truck, and lack of skill combined with 35s is essentially a guarantee to break the differential (a buddy of mine has broken at least two diffs, one axle and at least one CV joint, and that's just one guy). I suspect the only reason mine has lived so long, and will hopefully continue to perform, is I try to drive gently offroad, never, ever! spin the tires except on accident and get off the accelerator as soon as I feel the spin, and I do a lot of driving with the hubs open and choose to lock them only when I need 4WD.

I didn't mention any of it before since it really has absolutely nothing to do with expedition travel...

...The tiedowns in the bed, that's another story :D. Should be getting most of it done tonight :).
 

CornDog

Observer
devinsixtyseven said:
Building up the Tundra axle would mean a disc brake conversion kit, an ARB locker and regear, full float kit with stronger shafts, diff armor and axle brace...

Not to keep on the axle thing, but rather then building that monster in the pic, why not just go with a Rockwell 2.5 w/ diskbrake conversion and ARB?
Rebuilt 2.5- $800
Disk Brake Swap- $800
(usa6x6.com)
 
Well...other than usa6x6 having an exceedingly poor reputation...

Rocks are really, really heavy. This axle was designed from the ground up based on existing parts and plans through Diamond Axle, with strength, stability, reliability, braking redundancy, build flexibility, clearance and ease of maintenance/repair in mind. In addition to rail slides on concrete halfpipes (not by me), this axle will be able to easily and reliably run at highway speed, keep unsprung weight at a minimum despite its strength, use easily sourced OEM parts for consumables (bearings, rotors, pads, service calipers), allow me to "drive by feel" with the rear axle, continue to run a completely street legal setup (no driveshaft or pinion e-brakes), and minimize overall weight as it affects braking distance and general handling. A Rockwell axle is strong, but the size, weight, options, parts and I've heard even material make it unsuited to my needs and wants.

There's nothing wrong with my stock axle :). It's still unbroken and in great shape. However, I think this new axle will serve my (our?) needs better as my interests expand and the vehicle evolves. Built right, this truck can be a rock crawler, a dune jumper AND an expedition vehicle, and this axle is just a part of that :).

The bottom line is the axle was a want, not a need, driven by my desire to safely, reliably and easily negotiate more difficult terrain with a fully loaded truck, and make complete use of the capability that larger tires can provide.

-Sean
 

CornDog

Observer
devinsixtyseven said:
Well...other than usa6x6 having an exceedingly poor reputation...
Yea, I've heard of their rep... I was just using them for a price basis.
devinsixtyseven said:
Rocks are really, really heavy. ...

I knew the 2.5s were heavy, but I didn't think they were that heavy. I've never heard of the over all build quality being that bad either, but you probably know better than me!
Thanks for the info, and great write up!
 
Got a few things done over the weekend :D.

The heavy duty D-ring tiedowns went in underneath the bed, with four 3/8" Grade 8 bolts each. They take a 2.5" hole saw and a finishing cut with a sawzall to allow the ring to fully pivot upward and back. All four lie in the two wide channels in the bed...measured from the rear lip of the bed, the close edge of the rear tiedowns is at 8.5" and the forwards at 43.5"...it's enough to lock down a 39" spare, if I had one.

When the spare tire is loaded face down, the cavity in the rim can be filled with stuff. On top of that, the X-Jack, then a tarp, and ratchet straps. A pair of camp chairs are lashed to the straps with a tautline hitch, so they're quick & easy to get in and out. There's a better way, but they're tied down.

Hilift jack is mounted on the right bedside with a 4XRAC. It's more stable than Quick Fists, but the provided mounting hardware isn't really very helpful...better to source your own 1/4" fasteners, since the included fasteners are rather long and only include nylock nuts. Kind of awkward in tight spaces. The label side is facing in to the bed, and the foot is facing the cab (and the jerrycans), so if it did come loose nobody gets hurt.

The Nupla shovel is mounted with QFs to the left bedside, over the wheel well.

There are three jerrycans strapped down on either side of the front of the bed, using another pair of lighter duty D-ring tiedowns. Because of their layout and location, they had to be mounted on top of the bed. The cans are protected from the bolt head by a couple thick sheets of neoprene...actually fender covers for working in an engine bay, handy to have around in any case. There is a better way, I just have to DIY, and they will sit in the channel like the spare tire tiedowns. The cans are strapped in tight--strap, crank, burp, repeat. I'll burp them again at altitude, to minimize trapped air and pressure buildup. The better way is an auxiliary fuel cell.

In between the six jerrycans, behind the sliding rear window, there's currently a 5gal blue water jug. They're durable enough, and I have crates for them. The crates can be strapped to the same tiedowns holding the jerrycans. There's another blue jug at the end of the bed, on the left. Better solution is a pair of 5gal Scepter H2O jugs, strapped in the center between the fuel cans.

The space between the jerrycans and the spare tire is full of cooler. Right now, it's a 58 quart Coleman...we discovered we can pack 11 days of food and some drinks (frozen, ice in the cracks, etc) in that cooler, and a few frozen drinks in a smaller cooler. I think the 82 quart cooler is similar dimensions except length, and there is plenty of room to either side...I see an 82qt fitting there in the future, and no need for a second cooler with everything precooked, frozen and sealed in individual containers.

Right now the CO2 tank is sitting at the right rear bed corner. I think there is a better way, but for now this will suffice.

With the rear seat and carpet removed, the two storage wells are easily accessed. A small toolbox is lashed in the right well, it sticks up a bit, eventually I'd like to make it a sliding tool drawer, with everything packed using QFs, foam, small drawers, etc. The right well contains the 1/2" drive stuff...breaker bar, torque wrench, ratchet...and they'll all be attached to the inside front of that well using mini QFs.

In the cab, the space under the seats is perfect for a couple tarps, maybe some rope, pair of flip flops...it's a couple inches high and almost a foot square.

In the back seat area, two large blue tupperware bins get lashed in place. One contains non-perishable goods and cookware, the other is clothing.

The tent rides on the floor behind one of the seats, the duffel containing various stuff (fire extinguisher, duct tape, flares, gloves, paper towel, etc) goes behind the other. A couple drybags of clothing can rest wherever--probably behind the seats again--and the sleeping pads and bags can also sit in the back seat somewhere.

Should be plenty of room in the bed, maybe even back of the cab, for a couple packs.

Last items are a couple tarp stakes...a pair of lightweight wooden dowels to lash wherever in the bed for a high ceiling, and a pair of metal stakes to be buried in the ground at the other end as shelter from the weather.

End result is proper loading, great visibility out the rear, truck doesn't wallow or ride low in back, and we're ready for 11 days of whatever and only need to resupply with water somewhere in the middle. I think the truck could easily still carry another 15gal H2O, if it were held in Scepter cans...they have a better shape than the round jugs we're using now, two can go in the front, another pair can sit to either side of the cooler, and one more in the rear left corner where a blue jug is sitting now. All this except the last would be riding forward of the rear axle.
 
Here's how it all stacked up.

The final weight with about 3/4 tank was 3500# front, 3000# rear.

The d-ring tiedowns worked great...nothing shifted around, ever, period.

I'm glad I brought a second regulator since the quick-connect busted on one of them. Fortunately the regulator itself is fine, just need a new q/c.

I left out the cupholders in the center console...it actually makes it easier to set stuff there, I'm leaving them out.

We left the duffel that normally carries all the "stuff" at home...the "stuff" found homes in the rear under-seat compartments and in the center console.

The water bags in the seatbacks worked great! As did the flashlights pointing sideways. Fortunately we did not need to use any of the recovery gear. It was great being able to see through the "tailgate". We did end up using the crowbar, copper tube and the large tarp.

I blew the front shocks again.

Nothing on the truck broke other than the front shocks and the alignment going nuts.

Next project...finish the welding table, learn to weld properly, then build, fit, finish and install the rear axle :D...as well as the shock hoop, then the compressor and dual batteries relocated to the rear. I intend to continue loading like I did for the last trip, relocating power to the rear and adding a second battery will improve handling since the weight distribution will be closer to 50/50, at least until I get a winch.

Also need to find a good place for the fire extinguisher, and I'd like to make sliding trays for the under-seat storage in the back of the extended cab.
 
Finished the welding table :D, rebuilt the coilovers, currently assembling the axle :jump:.

To-Do List---
Hang the rear axle
-Shock hoop
-Brake hard lines and proportioning valve
-Ebrake lines
Check for 37" tire clearance
Regear front diff
Make wheel well liners
Install compressor
-Look at full pneumatic
-Mod an ammo box to hold the unit
Relocate batteries

This will straighten out the weight distro a little more...right now it's 53/47, moving the battery from the front and adding a second will pull it closer to 50/50.
 

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