Expedition-proofing the truck.

[SOFpirate]

Hey everybody (again).

I was wondering on how to expedition proof my engine, as in waterproofing and dust/sand proofing the truck. This thought came to mind today when I fried my coil doing a water crossing. It wasn't TERRIBLY deep, but I could've gone slower to avoid said situation.

Also, it tends to linger in the gray area between 4HI and 2HI. I'll put it back into 2hi and it'll sit there and blink at me forever, and once after a while, a horrible grinding noise came from the right front wheel. This is also the same and only wheel that's missing one of the little hub caps. I did all the tricks, like back up, neutral, cycling it a bunch, and even gave it a good power washing. Any ideas on how to return it to FULL 2hi?

 

[dirty Bakers]

Regular thorough cleaning and maintenance. Check for tightness on all linkages, caps, ect. I have seen rubber boots that strap around the distributor but I am not sure where to get one. I have never heard of a coil giving out during a water crossing, usually the distributor gets wet on the inside. The remedy is to remove the cap and load the components underneath and the underside of the cap with WD-40,
re-assemble the distributor and it will run good as new.

 

[SOFpirate]

Yeah, that's the thing. I've NEVER heard of it going out on anybody, unless you submerge the truck, but with my luck I guess I just hit it just right.

 

[off-roader]

...but I could've gone slower to avoid said situation...

Thats the key right there. Slow and steady is the best way to go through deep water. The key is to go just fast enough to create a bow wake that you will then stay behind to further minimize water intrusion.

Also, it tends to linger in the gray area between 4HI and 2HI. I'll put it back into 2hi and it'll sit there and blink at me forever, and once after a while, a horrible grinding noise came from the right front wheel. This is also the same and only wheel that's missing one of the little hub caps. I did all the tricks, like back up, neutral, cycling it a bunch, and even gave it a good power washing. Any ideas on how to return it to FULL 2hi?

Knowing what vehicle you're talking about would be very helpful for us to give you an answer.:ylsmoke:

 

[SOFpirate]

Thats the key right there. Slow and steady is the best way to go through deep water. The key is to go just fast enough to create a bow wake that you will then stay behind to further minimize water intrusion.


Knowing what vehicle you're talking about would be very helpful for us to give you an answer.:ylsmoke:

Yeah ... the issue was that the wife was having a lot of fun splashing through the smaller puddles, and when our group hit a bigger one, we all splashed through it.

I was the only one without a Jeep, even though a few of them had the same issues afterwards, but the hot running engines burned off all the water we think.

My bad on the truck. It's a 1996 Mitsubishi Montero LS with the 3.0L V6. Stock everything, 31's on the ground.

 

[off-roader]

Just how deep was it?

Just how deep was it anyway? I ask because I've driven along the banks of slow moving rivers that were hood deep Green River in SE Utah without issues and without any 'extra water' prep. :ylsmoke:

 

[Ozarker]

I use to float a VW in a small river from sand bar to sand bar with the heater vents sealed. I used caulk around the distributor base and wires/coil and a hose on my carb. Never had a problem with that. Today you could use silicone caulk and seal it I would think. OTH, after awhile depending on where you are, you'll get condinsation inside (it did on the VW) and will need to dry it out and spay it, then take off. Never had a problem with the plugs and they were submerged at times, ran rough at times but ran to keep the wheels spinning....

 

[SOFpirate]

The water wasn't terribly deep. It was only about bumper deep, the exhaust wasn't even under water.

After further investigation, it wasn't the coil, it was the two plug setup right before the coil. Totally forgot what it's called right now. But replaced that and she fired right up.

But the truck still sputters a tad, but I think it's because I didn't WD40 the plugs going into it. Going to give that a shot.

 

[PajEvo]

Before I got diesels (and got rid of plugs and dizzies altogether!) I was always cautious during water crossings. Pulled many a vehicle out of a water hole that they had tried to follow me through. So we do have some advantages - ecu is up off the floor (look at the Pathys ecu under the seat). The air intake is inside the fender, not simply behind the headlight. The V6's alternator is up top. The rear diff has a breather going up to a higher crossmember. So we have a good platform to start... fast crossings tend to override many of these advantages, as stated above, so check the level first, and if you decide to cross, resist the urge to raise the roostertails, and go steadily. If a manual trans, try to pick and stick with it. Clutch in means water in bellhousing.

Other than driving carefully, you can help some more. Extend those diff breathers higher. Get a snorkel to put your air intake at roof level. Carry wd40 (as stated above) and use it to dry your igniton if need be. Use dielectric grease on your spark plug boots. Vent your trans up high, esp an auto. Change your diff and trans oils more often. Check your wheelbearings/hubs for water entry. Synth fluids and grease are good choices.

These are probably all common sense items, but worth mentioning.

HTH
Phil

 

[skinzluch]

I had the same blinking issue in my Montero for a while. It turned out that one of the front wheels was at a lower pressure, so it rotated faster and wouldn't allow the hubs to unlock. (The hubs only unlock when the truck is driven in a straight line and with one wheel rotating faster it was, in effect, the same as going around a curve.) Try driving in a slight curve one way or the other. I found that's what did the trick for me before I replaced the leaky tire.

The grinding sound—I'm sorry to say—probably indicates that you fried one of your hubs. If you switch out of 4 wheel drive and drive over about 45-50mph (not sure on the exact speed) with the hubs still engaged (i.e. the front wheel indicator lights still blinking) you risk frying the hubs. I only speak from experience as I did this very thing in my old Trooper.

 

[off-roader]

Just to clarify, the engine should have easily handled that depth water. Can you check the wiring to that broken part? Was the rubber insulation on the wires broken or showing exposed wires?

That's really the only reason it would fail from water intrusion in my experience wheeling Monteros for the last decade...

Alternatively it could have simply gone bad from a combination of both the water and age...

As for the blinking 4x4 lights, see my reply to your other thread...

HTH

 

[SOFpirate]

To close out this thread and move it all to my build thread, the blinky light issue was fixed by going wheeling again.

No joke. I did a water fording or two, and I guess washed out the strategic piece of dirt. Now the truck shifts better between 2 and 4 better than it did. Go figure. As for the ignition control module and all that stuff ... it's because the plug was loose and water seeped in. Unfortunately, enough seeped in to fry the components before I could catch it. Thats fine, replaced it. I now carry plenty of WD-40 in the truck. Done.