Expedition wrangler lift question (OME lift)

[Scotsmanspride]

Ok, I need a little help from you guys out there. I have been into wheeling for years but as of late having a family i find myself wanting to do more expedition style trips. My wrangler TJ is still fairly stock because I am hung up on lifts. Here are my requirements. I am wanting to clear 33X10.5 tires and have room for them to flex. I know i can do a 2" OME but i have heard that a 33x10.5 will clear ok on a stock wheel . Also the problem is i am trying to keep this on a budget but do it right. Should i just go for a RE 3.5 with the short arms and do a SYE kit and TW Driveshaft???Or just skimp by for a while on a TC drop kit. I already have a rear dana44 in my garage with a detroit and 4.56's and going with 4.56's and a lockrite in the front. Any help with experience for wranglers will help.

 

[NOMADIC_LJ]

if you are really in a crunch money wise I would suggest this;
- 2" budget boost kit (shocks and spacers) and a 1" body lift. That will clear your 33's, you wont have to do a SYE and may or may not need the TC drop kit. You can also keep your stock drive shaft.

33x10.5 will clear with no lift. The problem is any type of bump and you are going to rub. Forget about going offroad to say the least.

If you can spend a little money, get the RE 3.5 but get the super flex kit as the basic kit is missing a lot of pieces. Even with the super flex kit you still have to get a track bar or drill out your stock one.

just my .02

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

I run 33x10.5s with no rubbing, even with disconnected swaybars, at full articulation.

Here's my setup:

2" Budget Boost (BB)
1" Body Lift (BL)
1" Motor Mount Lift (ML)
OME rear trackbar bracket
BFG 33x10.5 AT
15x8 Wheels with 4" Backspacing (puts them right at the edge of my Sahara flares)

All very easy installs. I don't run a SYE, CV shaft, etc. and have no issues what so ever. You can use stock wheels, but your rear axle will shift to one side a little with the lift so you will have to correct it with either the OME Bracket ($20) or an adjustable trackbar ($150+); if not your tire may hit your spring bucket.

 

[Metcalf]

What about something like a Highline kit....the AEV version or a homemade version? Yes, its a little more expensive than a lift, but you don't have to change ANYTHING in the suspension or powertrain. No driveshaft modifications and you could clear 33s easily.

There are some pretty good homemade versions with write ups floating around now on some of the jeep forums.

The stock TJ suspension with disconnects works really well. Throw a bigger tire under the stock suspension and you get the clearance you need without any of the little quirks of lifting the suspension ( Driveline angles, steering geometry, control arm angles, etc.

The axle and lockers you are planning would still just bolt in.

Down the road I would advise something like the Nth Tummy Tucker and a SYE rear driveshaft to smooth up the underside of the jeep since it will be pretty low to the ground.

 

[Mexican_Hippie]

With a 2" suspension lift you shouldn't need any driveline modifications.

If you go with the RE3.5 you will need the SYE/CV (or drop the tcase skid). You won't be able to get away with a motor mount lift.

 

[ox4mag]

I've got a Rubicon Express 3.5" SuperFlex lift and it works wonderfully for this purpose (I, too, run 33" tires). Or you can try the options from Old Man Emu. Those are always excellent too. Good luck!

 

[BIGdaddy]

i'm not a big fan of non-stock parts, unless they are beefed up versions like chromoly shafts for your dana 30 that are the same spline count as stock, or beefy tubular control arms that are simply WAAAY stronger and therefore justify the change.

problem with things like an ARB air locker that is a larger spline count than stock (super30 kit or super35 kit), requiring non stock axles, or a slip yoke eliminator w/ corresponding aftermarket double cardon driveshaft(i.e. Advanced adapters SYE and Tom woods Dshaft), is that now the after market has you by the man-pears.

You are no longer able to go to napa or a junkyard when you are in BFE, wyoming with a blown drive shaft (me) , or a 38" tire that's out of round (me) or two blown way-larger-than-stock shocks (me)

To this end, I'd say modify what you need to to fit a useful, conservative tire choice, that you can find anywhere. (do a search of the tire stores in the area's you want to go to. Call them and see if they have stock in the size you need. I COULD NOT find a ******** Cepek 38" tire anywhere, even "4wheel parts" stores. All of them had to dropship a week later, so we just dealt with it for 500 miles...haha!

I'd say that mexican hippie has the right idea for a low-buck, conservative lift that clears anything from 31's to 33's. That was my plan when I had my LJ unlimited.

Also: do some research on a tummy tuck. you basically use a motor mount lift, body lift, and an aftermarket high-clearance skid plate to move your drivetrain up and out of the way. You get a flat, snagfree belly AND you gain an honest 2-3". a truck with a tummy tuck and budget boost is a very effective solution. I think the comparison was a truck with 31's and a tummy tuck, actually had more clearance mid-truck than one lifted 2-3" on 33's...I forget exactly, though...You'd definitely sidehill a lot better than a truck on 33's.

 

[BIGdaddy]

another option is swapping in a NV241or tcase (rubicon 4:1) with its flanged rear output.

Be sure to grab the stock rear double cardon driveshaft.

 

[alosix]

For 33s (both 10 and 12.5 wide) my fav combination is the Rubicon Express budget boost and a 1" body lift.

Its very cost effective and rides nice (especially if you get the BB with the mono tube shocks on it).

The only real issue left on the Jeep at that point is the somewhat weak TJ control arms.
Ex:

Its not too hard to bend, beat them, and tear them. I did that front upper just by having a very flex happy day. It was probably weakened a bit earlier though.

Added the OME kit would be the next step up in that setup. It def rides nice, though to me its never really be worth the price of it.

The RE 3.5 kit is really nice. I'm not all that sure the superflex is necessary, just the RE1600 track bar with it (though, I'd honestly always do the 1610 on a TJ).

I wouldn't be all that worried about using an SYE and a driveshaft either. They are not that hard to fix in the bush with napa parts. You'll be able to find everything but the shaft and the housing @ Napa. The driveshaft will be the same as well, with the only difference from a stock TJ front shaft being the length of the shaft when it comes to serviceable parts. The trick is knowing what parts you have on your rig as they won't be able to lookup the bearings or rear DS parts on their computer.

Jason

 

[Lumberjack]

Here was my 05 unlimited...

I had medium front and heavy rear OME springs on stock wheels with 33x10.50's. Also had 1" bodylift and tummytuck. The BL was not needed for wheel travel. I did need to put a couple of washers under the steering stop to reduce rubbing. It reduced turning radius a little... I also feel this helps reduce the chance of binding up the front u-joints. It had tons of flex and the ride was near stock... even stuffed full of gear for 2 week Colorado adventure.

Note: Any lift may cause driveline vibes and can be hit or miss with a 2 1/2" lift. I would plan on a SLE kit. As for a Ruby box, I find the 4:1 in my TJ too low for adventure/expo wheelin.

Dennis

 

[BIGdaddy]

For 33s (both 10 and 12.5 wide) my fav combination is the Rubicon Express budget boost and a 1" body lift.

Its very cost effective and rides nice (especially if you get the BB with the mono tube shocks on it).

The only real issue left on the Jeep at that point is the somewhat weak TJ control arms.
Ex:

Its not too hard to bend, beat them, and tear them. I did that front upper just by having a very flex happy day. It was probably weakened a bit earlier though.

Added the OME kit would be the next step up in that setup. It def rides nice, though to me its never really be worth the price of it.

The RE 3.5 kit is really nice. I'm not all that sure the superflex is necessary, just the RE1600 track bar with it (though, I'd honestly always do the 1610 on a TJ).

I wouldn't be all that worried about using an SYE and a driveshaft either. They are not that hard to fix in the bush with napa parts. You'll be able to find everything but the shaft and the housing @ Napa. The driveshaft will be the same as well, with the only difference from a stock TJ front shaft being the length of the shaft when it comes to serviceable parts. The trick is knowing what parts you have on your rig as they won't be able to lookup the bearings or rear DS parts on their computer.

Jason

In XJ buildups I've heard of using a stock xj front double cardon shaft, in the rear attached to the SYE flange. I wonder if that would work on a TJ. That way you'd have a clear set of part numbers to ask for, or parts to look for @ a junkyard.

 

[BIGdaddy]

another thought is a budget boost/small lift, w/ a set of tube fenders, and trimming in the rear. tube fenders don't approach the pricepoint of a set of AEV Highlines and are usually a fairly easy install with just some re-arranging under the hood.

Bonus, is they add strength to the fender area themselves, a "crumple-prone" area, for sure.\


paruse this website. http://www.rokmen.com/

They've got a jeep on 40's with 2.5" of lift apparently. Worth a look, probably!

 

[Lumberjack]

In XJ buildups I've heard of using a stock xj front double cardon shaft, in the rear attached to the SYE flange. I wonder if that would work on a TJ. That way you'd have a clear set of part numbers to ask for, or parts to look for @ a junkyard.

Yep, I used a double cardon shaft I had from a ZJ (I had used it in place of the stock CV shaft, kept it when I sold the ZJ), had it shortened to work in rear my extended TJ. I believe the shaft was originally out of a XJ. The double cardon parts can be bought at almost any parts store. I used to carry a complete assembly(2 U-joints, centering ball, and cage, all assembled) because I heard they can be a pain to fix in the field. Never had a problem with one though...

Dennis

Edit: I also used the hack-a-shaft for close to 3 years with no trouble and wish I would have never spent the money for a full kit.

 

[alosix]

Yep, I used a double cardon shaft I had from a ZJ (I had used it in place of the stock CV shaft, kept it when I sold the ZJ), had it shortened to work in rear my extended TJ. I believe the shaft was originally out of a XJ. The double cardon parts can be bought at almost any parts store. I used to carry a complete assembly(2 U-joints, centering ball, and cage, all assembled) because I heard they can be a pain to fix in the field. Never had a problem with one though...

Dennis

Edit: I also used the hack-a-shaft for close to 3 years with no trouble and wish I would have never spent the money for a full kit.

Yeah really. I can't believe how well those things hold up. I've got several friends running them and the RCRocs comp Jeep we ran had one on it and a 4.1 t-case as well.

Me, I've got one of the JB super short ones because I needed all of the shaft I could get with an AW-4 stuffed in there. My old AA normal SYE is now living in an XJ that has 2 front drive shafts.

I'll second the 4:1 being a little too slow for expo work. I find my 2.72 about dead on when doing 'expo' style trails. You also don't really gain much as the rubi's don't have a double cardon driveshaft. I think I really want a 4 speed Atlas (2.72 and 4:1) or a 3:1 and 5:1 Stak case in the Jeep.

 

[86cj]

Ok, I need a little help from you guys out there. I have been into wheeling for years but as of late having a family i find myself wanting to do more expedition style trips. My wrangler TJ is still fairly stock because I am hung up on lifts. Here are my requirements. I am wanting to clear 33X10.5 tires and have room for them to flex. I know i can do a 2" OME but i have heard that a 33x10.5 will clear ok on a stock wheel . Also the problem is i am trying to keep this on a budget but do it right. Should i just go for a RE 3.5 with the short arms and do a SYE kit and TW Driveshaft???Or just skimp by for a while on a TC drop kit. I already have a rear dana44 in my garage with a detroit and 4.56's and going with 4.56's and a lockrite in the front. Any help with experience for wranglers will help.

I put 33x10.50's a BB w/ Hydro shocks and a 1" BL and MML combo on my LJ the first day it came home (36 miles). They will fit fine, just watch the rear spring cup for rubbing, a 10.50 should be OK, I used a hammer to round the edge a bit.
I think the stock rear springs are to soft and upgraded to 3" BDS springs. You could use the stock springs and put some Airlift bags in them ($70) then spend some money on Bilstein 5100 shocks for a 3" lift, they work fine with my bumpstop spacers that came with the BB . I Highly recommend them they really made the Jeep stable and controlled. I used the OME rear trackbar bracket with the BB also and my RR axle is centered, for the front a JKS trackbar is used and recommended for centering, rather than redrilling the hole which is OK. That is about as basic as I would go and build from there......