Expedition wrangler lift question (OME lift)

[Ford Prefect]

FIRSTLY...

Lots of people who have not tried it will tell you that you can not run 33's on a stock TJ. The fact is that if you trim the fender flares you can run 35's on a STOCK tj with some rubbing at full flex.

I HIGHLY recommend considering the Highline fenders front and rear. Gen-right has a set that you can pick up for about a grand. With that you can run anything from 35 down with ease. (no lift)

If that is too pricey for you I would still do the teraflex 2" BB and shocks, then get a set of JKS disconnects. If you want more clearance then put on a tummy tucker or similar t-case skid. (this will likely require an SYE but every jeep is different, and a longer rear d-shaft.)

IF it were me I would go with the Genright Highlines front and rear, Tera 2" BB a tummy tucker, and 36's To run 36's on a tj in any other way will cost you a good $2-3000.oo I figure for about $1-1500 you can run it the way I have laid out. (I have done the math, it works)

Good luck whatever you go with. Oh yeah, and, do not forget, opinions...are like feet. Everyone has them and they all stink.

 

[gpndave]

I put 70K miles on my 99 TJ with OME HD lift, 1" motor lift and 1.5" body lift. The motor lift and body lift kept the drive line correct, so not T-case drop needed and no vibes. Ran 33X10.5R15 BFG ATs on stock wheels with one washer behind the passenger side turn stop. Ride was better than stock on road and flex was excellent off road. Good durable set-up. With 4.56 gears it had good off-line power, but was buzzy at 70+mph. Averaged 16 mpg.

 

[JohnnyS]

I'm running 33x10.50 KM2s on stock 15" wheels with an OME ZJ/LJ lift (one washer on each side behind the steering stops) & JKS discos, with no rubbing.
The combo works really well on the road but I find myself digging into low range much more on the trail (NSG 470 & 4.10s), my LJ is pretty heavy though (4500 lbs empty).
I like it though.

 

[Ford Prefect]

Yeah, if you are going to do gears I would go for 4.10 4.11 and no bigger (numerically). My CJ can easily get me up to 95 running my 33.5x12.50 and I have the 4.10, if you get into a 4.56 it was intended for a larger tire and thus will slow your top end spead down.

ALSO I just thought of this, but you can look up DIY/ JUNKYARD on a jeep forum, in fact jeepforum.com has several threads. There you will find things like a ZJ front spring can lift the front of a TJ 3" and a Ford Crown Vic. rear springs can lift a TJ 3-3.5" (and they are plug and play, in other words they bolt right in.) This is one way you can go for a 3" lift for around 100 bucks.

 

[roadkill]

Yeah, if you are going to do gears I would go for 4.10 4.11 and no bigger (numerically). My CJ can easily get me up to 95 running my 33.5x12.50 and I have the 4.10, if you get into a 4.56 it was intended for a larger tire and thus will slow your top end spead down.

this may be true for a standard or 3 spd auto but if the OP has a 4 spd auto he will need 4.88s or 5.13s since the 4spd has a .69 OD. I run 5.13s and 33s and it works out perfect. 70mph is around 2600-2700 rpms. when I had stock 4.10 gears and 33s 70mph was close to 2100 rpms and would actuallu lug the engine and cause the tranny to constantly downshift in high headwinds and/or climbing hills.

 

[troy]

In my old '01 TJ, I ran OME heavies front and rear. 1.25" JKS body lift and 1" MML. No vibes and it would stuff 33"x12.5" tires just inside of the fender flares. I was running stock canyon wheels with 1.25" spacers.

With 10.5" tires on stock wheels I think would be perfect. I put over 100K on this setup as a DD and expo truck. It drove and handled as good or better than stock. You may need a washer or two under the steering stops as mentioned above.

Another vote for:

BB or OME, BL, and MML to clear your 33x10.5. Good simple set up.

 

[ox4mag]

FIRSTLY...

Lots of people who have not tried it will tell you that you can not run 33's on a stock TJ. The fact is that if you trim the fender flares you can run 35's on a STOCK tj with some rubbing at full flex.

I would think this would only be true though if the gearing is upgraded. The stock gearing on a non-Rubicon TJ would have a very hard time with a tire that large. But yes, making some adjustments to the fender flares etc would allow for that size. Just make sure the other mechanical aspects are covered if going that route.

 

[BigAl]

Off topic, but I wonder if you could easily "box" that arm for strength or are the ends weak too?

 

[roadkill]

Off topic, but I wonder if you could easily "box" that arm for strength or are the ends weak too?

why? they were designed to twist and give. if you box them in the only give they will have are the rubber bushings and you will most likely be tearing off mounts next. much better to either upgrade to a better control arm that has johnny joints at both ends or twist in the middle like the JKS or simply acquire (usually for free) stock arms to carry as spares.

 

[Scotsmanspride]

So far lots of good info. My gearing has already been taken care of . I am swapping out my 35C for a tj dana 44 that already has a detroit locker and 4.56 gears and doing the front with a lockrite and matching gears. This should be the perfect setup with my 6 speed manual to put me near 2600 RPM. I am so far leaning towards doing the OME lift by itself and running the tires. I have JKS discos already and will probably just upgrade suspension parts as needed. I am not too worried about breakage on some parts as i will have an on board welder to patch most things up. I am still trying to find more info on the front xj DS swapped to the rear. For most use i have seen a TW driveshaft to be near overkill but could really overdo it and just get a 1 ton DS built:Wow1: Just got the snorkel on the other day and now also looking into my options for a roof rack since a tj SUCKS for space.

 

[Backwoods Rambler]

Off topic, but I wonder if you could easily "box" that arm for strength or are the ends weak too?

Boxing Stock CA's :ylsmoke:

 

[Root Moose]

Not a fan.

The way the stock arms are so "plastic" the welds will be popping apart with heavy wheeling or there will be cracks forming at the ends because you have introduced a stress riser at either end of the welded plate.

Control arms aren't big money. Stop being a cheap *** and do it right.

 

[alosix]

Not a fan.

The way the stock arms are so "plastic" the welds will be popping apart with heavy wheeling or there will be cracks forming at the ends because you have introduced a stress riser at either end of the welded plate.

Control arms aren't big money. Stop being a cheap *** and do it right.

I'll 2nd that in a less harsh tone ....

mine had a small stress riser created by the 1st gen of the Airock sensor attachment points. You'll notice now that Steve won't sell you those...

Building another Jeep like the one here (33s on an LJ). I'd probably just grab a set of RE bushing arms and leave it at that. The only issue there is that they tend to be a little longer (1/8" I think) which can screw with the caster a little up front.

if anything though. The nice thing about a 5 link is that you can drive home with one of the CA's missing.

Jason

 

[Scotsmanspride]

Well i just got off the phone with T%T customs and was looking into a highline kit. Well apparently their tube fenders are cut differently. From what they are saying I can clear 33's easily with just the front tube fender and their rear corner guards...and that would set me back $900 without doing Any driveline modifications. any thoughts on this route??

 

[alosix]

The lower the better

If you can handle the looks of their kit (got a link?) I'd def go that direction.

Throw in a TT later and put some decent shocks on it.

If mine didn't take a whole new front clip for an AEV highlight (1996 build 'beta' TJ) I would have probably pulled some of my lift and installed one of those a while ago.