Experience With Preparing ISUZU NPS Camper: Body

[gait]

what bummer, its nice when vehicle and house are same volts.

Misunderstood (as usual). Parallel two charging sources to battery and the currents add. Lots of alternator amps plus very little solar amps will attempt to charge at the solar regulator set point (typically higher than alternator regulator). Alternator amps is typically more than the Redarc can handle.

There are also B2B chargers that handle more than 40A, and "smart" alternator regulators.

It was just a thought.

 

[IcedVolvo]

Just a quick note about solar panels and capacity, we have the following devices in our truck:

Calculations
fridge 3.6A ~50% operating time => 40Ah per day.
low power tv ~1.2A ~2hrs per day => 2Ah per day
led lighting ~1A ~4Ahrs per day => 4Ah per day
standard pressure based water pump, vacuum toilet, switch panel, instruments etc guess 2Ah per day
total ~ 50Ah per day

Theory
200W mono panel + MPPT charger (guessed 4hrs @ 15A + 2hrs @ 10A => 80Ah per day)
2 x 120Ah Gel batteries => 240Ah total capacity and 2 days of usable capacity @ 2/3 discharged to preserve battery life)

Reality
Even in full sun in summer the 200W panel only pushes ~9A into the batteries and at ~13.5V that's only ~130W so that's only about 65% efficiency, 58Ah is the maximum we have recorded for a full day in full sun with panel flat and unshaded (note the batteries may have reached full charge which may have limited the total current). On partially cloudy days we have only been averaging 25-26 Ah per day.

Message
So I suppose the take home message is: work out your power requirements and roughly DOUBLE that to get the solar capacity you actually need to be safe; in our case (and we are using high quality MPPT chargers and panels) we seem to get a maximum of ~30Ah per 100W of panel on a sunny day and some research shows that this is the most common figure quoted around the web;

So in our case of 50Ah of usage requires 200W of panel in full sun every day all day; to account for cloudy days you probably need twice this at 400W!!

[please note I have edited this post!!]

 

[4x4coaster]

Also please note this item is ans ABSOLUTE MUST:
They are not fitted to ISUZUs as standard and a fuel pump is ~$10,000 to repair.

If you don't have one (the fuel pre filter and water trap not the power point!!) get one fitted NOW!!!

View attachment 190335

Icedvolvo,
do you know the LPH figure for the fuel pump?
I've been trying to find it with no luck so far.
Need this to determine the model of fuel filter/separator to use.
what model did you use & what are the flow rates and micron filter rates?

 

[Curtis in Texas]

Hi People,

Just a small addition to my body stuff; I wanted to take a motorbike on the back so I made myself a carrier.

View attachment 151342

Note with the bike on this version is technically illegal by ~60mm because it exceeds the 60% of wheelbase rule but I have a solution for that in the works which will allow me to put the bike up there and then slide it back towards the truck body.

Just wanted to bring up an alternative option for easy loading carrying a motorcycle across the back of yours and anyone elses truck. This one makes loading a motorcycle a lot easier.
I am currently building this rail on the back of my Class A Motorhome.
(I got sick right after this post so I haven't gotten back out out to the shop to finish. But I have all the pieces made and the Engineering done!)

I've been thinking of raising up the carrier for more rear ground clearance and adding a temporary rail extension so loading can still be seemless.

I did this write up on the Hard Sided Section of this Forum. So I'll link it here!

http://www.expeditionportal.com/for...cle-With-A-Truck-Camper?p=1696022#post1696022

If you want to know more PM me and I'll send you a copy of the Patents. It's over 40 years old, so it's Public Domain now. You'll have to work out the measurments for your application, but I have the critical #'s needed for the lift mechanisms! Be happy to share! (don't tell the wife but I'm thinking of buying an NPS and doing the same thing you guys are doing.)

BTY, I worked for the Designer building these for his Company back in the 70's and they were so slick! But, I added the winch because my bike is a big one, and it makes getting it tied to the ramp so much safer.
I plan to either carry my Yamaha 1200 Tenere or 650 KLR with it.

So mine is, shall we say, ROBUST.

 

[IcedVolvo]

Just one final addition when not carrying the trusty KTM:



His and hers matching fat bikes

PS if you are up in North QLD u must do the classic bike tracks up there (Bump track etc) even if on hired bikes, just awesome riding.

 

[SkiFreak]

I'd be interested in seeing some more images of your bike rack (from different angles), should feel comfortable sharing...

 

[grinch]

Hi 1Engine, mine is a 2009 Euro IV

You are absolutely correct in both points. I was going to try and relocate the standard system but there is a air mass or flo sensor in just before the turbo which makes it tricky. Where did you get the "plumbing" for the Donaldson from, I have been searching for someone who deals in this sort of stuff in Oz?

The updated list is as follows:

1: super single conversions, several groups do a single 19.5 rim

2: wading depth is pretty poor at 300mm (ISUZUs recommended maximum).

• DPD exhaust should not be submerged
• wiring insertion points in gearbox etc
• fuse box needs to be relocated
• brakes take a long long LONG time to start working again after submersion

3: Standard fuel tank is way too low

4: Need a protective screen to cover gap between inter-cooler and radiator (getting grass etc in here will kill your $8000 turbo!)

5: Dust sealing is atrocious

6: front steps need to be modified higher

7: transfer case is lower than chassis rail and really needs a "bash plate" to protect it.

8: rear shock absorbers are in front of the axle and get annihilated by stones, need a protective shield of some sort.

9: front sway bar is way too low, needs to be moved or removed altogether (potentially dangerous.....)

10: need to fit screens between engine bay and wheel wells, these are available commercially as are wheel arch flares etc.

11: fit extended breathers to 4 (yes four) points:

• front diff, careful to avoid connector hitting sump
• rear diff
• gearbox
• transfer case (this is really hard to find, go to a dealers and have a look at a bare chassis to see it.

12: Air filter absolutely needs replacing!! It is a paper element and is fitted straight from the standard road going N series , it even has water drain at the bottom. It is a VERY real risk for water entry as it is so low.

Paper elements are the best, the oiled foam and k&n style filters let dust through.

 

[trackadda]

Icedvolvo,
do you know the LPH figure for the fuel pump?
I've been trying to find it with no luck so far.
Need this to determine the model of fuel filter/separator to use.
what model did you use & what are the flow rates and micron filter rates?

can any one shed a bit of light on this, have a 2007 nps300 and looking to add a 2nd filter/water trap

 

[PKDreamers]

Hi a fair few companys do filter trap/filters for crd.
Try these two.
http://www.flashlube.com/en/products/diesel-filter.html
http://dieseldistributors.com.au/products/filtration/fuel-manager-pre-filter-kits/

 

[christopher p weinberger]

Great thread..
I just wanted to say something in support/ defence of the Isuzu truck here. I've been planning an expedition camper build of my own and have spent a lot of time reading up on expedition portal forums...a quick thank you as it is a very quick way to gain a lot of insight. I don't believe Isuzu ever thought people/ companies would take their medium duty box/ tray haulers to the extreme level 4x4 that ATW, earthcruiser have. The Isuzu is first and foremost a medium duty commercial hauler, best suited for short to intermediate distances. The 4x4 option is just an effort to gain market space. I see the NPS competing with MB 4x4 not UNIMOG. The Japanese don't offer a competitor to the MOG. Likely too niche a market.
In conclusion, raise the fuel tank, add better suspension, add breathers and add protection, these few modifications will get you the best(only?) COE 14,000lb 4x4 out there.
IMHO New fuel environmental standard vehicles made 2007+ Are largely unsuitable for multi continental deep bush exploration, I'm looking into purchasing a pre 2007 vehicle.

 

[dlh62c]

Only add a filter and water separator if neither currently exist in the fuel system.

Otherwise let the OEM filter and water separator do their thing. OEM filters and water separators are sized to protect the fuel systems they are used on. Just carry additional OEM filters and your good to go.

Nothing will stop your forward progress more that diesel fuel contaminated with gasoline and/or alcohol. Ruining fuel pumps and blowing injectors.

Additional water and dirt protection can be achieved using a Mr Funnel to trap both at the point where the fuel goes into the tank.

 

[dlh62c]

IMHO New fuel environmental standard vehicles made 2007+ Are largely unsuitable for multi continental deep bush exploration, I'm looking into purchasing a pre 2007 vehicle.

Everyone wants to travel and explore far away lands and remote locations. Once you start crossing borders and jumping continents, vehicle preservation should be forefront in an overlander's mind.

 

[SkiFreak]

Nothing will stop your forward progress more that diesel fuel contaminated with gasoline and/or alcohol. Ruining fuel pumps and blowing injectors.

I would argue that water in the fuel is worse, as it has no lubricity and will destroy a common rail fuel system in no time flat.
Filtering the fuel as you put it into the tank can definitely be beneficial, but this will not stop condensation from occurring inside the tank. A water trap in between the tank and the injector pump is the only certain way of reducing this problem.

 

[dlh62c]

Filtering the fuel as you put it into the tank can definitely be beneficial, but this will not stop condensation from occurring inside the tank. A water trap in between the tank and the injector pump is the only certain way of reducing this problem.

Fuel tank condensation is easy to solve with an air vent dryer.

 

[SkiFreak]

Each to their own, but I do not regret installing the water trap into my fuel line, as it is a decent insurance addition, in my opinion.
Also, I don't know how you would go filling a tank using a Hi-Flow fuel pump via a funnel.