preacherman,
I got an Explorer for parts, but it may have been less expensive to just buy the bits separately. It's very straightforward, to be honest, even the wiring is dead simple, 4-5 wires to be welded together.
Bits lifted from the Explorer:
- transmission
- transmission plate (little plate in the cab)
- shift stick
- rubber boot
- flywheel (had it resurfaced)
- clutch pedal (incredible PITA)
- ECU
- starter
Parts bought
- clutch kit (new)
- clutch slave (new)
- clutch master (used ... Explorer and Ranger masters are different, at least from a 91 X to 94 Ranger)
I made a thread for it on therangerstation.com, if ya want to do a bit of reading (bunch of pictures too)
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14966
Stumpy,
only recently have I figured out that the previous owner had left the auto hub nut on the now manual hub. And it's locked via notches ... usually one notch is a bit loose, and the next one is just too tight. Since I burned down a bearing by having it "one too tight", I run them one too slack.
I will see if the new nut/counter-nut for the manual hub will work better (at least it will be torqued accurately!). It still won't solve the water intrusion problems.
I got an Explorer for parts, but it may have been less expensive to just buy the bits separately. It's very straightforward, to be honest, even the wiring is dead simple, 4-5 wires to be welded together.
Bits lifted from the Explorer:
- transmission
- transmission plate (little plate in the cab)
- shift stick
- rubber boot
- flywheel (had it resurfaced)
- clutch pedal (incredible PITA)
- ECU
- starter
Parts bought
- clutch kit (new)
- clutch slave (new)
- clutch master (used ... Explorer and Ranger masters are different, at least from a 91 X to 94 Ranger)
I made a thread for it on therangerstation.com, if ya want to do a bit of reading (bunch of pictures too)
http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14966
Stumpy,
only recently have I figured out that the previous owner had left the auto hub nut on the now manual hub. And it's locked via notches ... usually one notch is a bit loose, and the next one is just too tight. Since I burned down a bearing by having it "one too tight", I run them one too slack.
I will see if the new nut/counter-nut for the manual hub will work better (at least it will be torqued accurately!). It still won't solve the water intrusion problems.