Some strange plants call the forests of NZ home.
And so we crossed into the alpine herbfields once more.
Wet snow became more common. To our surprise a weka has passed this way a few hours before. For at least 4km it followed the track. Tough birds.
Soon the wind reached gale strength along the ridge. Despite the blowing rain, we were still mostly dry and warm from the 800 meter (gross) ascent. So we decided to push on, thinking we were closer to Mt Arthur. As we climbed up Gordons Pyramid, the rain turned to sleet, and clouds closed in. Apparently our weather forecast did not survive our ascent into the alpine. Also, $24 Amazon special direct-from-Malaysia rainpants are not waterproof in 90kph winds. I would say they are water resistant, or maybe just water frustrating. Good thing I was wearing wool thermals. For those not-in-the-know, hollow fibers such as wool retain substantial insulation value even when soaking wet. Good thing we packed the hand warmers; Jen was using them for feet and hands!
At the summit of the Pyramid, the ground was coated with freezing rain, and signs still bore a coating from the night previous. Notice Jen’s jacket on the side of the picture. Not an accident, this was the only way to keep the driving rain out of the camera! I firmly believe that these distances are not accurate. I suspect these signs were put up by the tramping club long before GPS…
At this point we realized just how far we had left to go. Already too late to turn back, we trudged on in the wind and rain. As did a bird friend as well. This one seemed a bit large and might be a kiwi's track.
As we descended to the other side of the range, the cloud cleared some, and the rain stopped. It was actually colder on the other side of the saddle! Starving, we found a spot out of the wind to make some quick warm soup. Only then did we discover that I had forgotten to pack the lighter. No problem, I had an igniter on the stove. It broke on the second click… No problem, I got this, spare matches. After 5 matches break, I discover that the sandpaper friction material on the box has worn off! My hands too cold to hold the matches, we give up and settle for a snack bar. After over 400km my boots waterproofing chose today to give out. With the snow frozen to my boots, my toes are numb and soaked. Wool only does so much!
Chilled from the long descent, we are starting to reach exhaustion, we start the climb to the ridge leading to Mt Arthur. To the right is a 40-minute slog to the summit, to the left is a warm hut. At the center of this photo is Mt Arthur rising into the clouds. Obviously we take the route to the hut. Just before the hut, we pass some hunters climbing up. (It is fairly mild and sheltered down here.) They are wearing shorts, chaps, and rubber boots. I hope they didn’t go too far west!
Sitting in the hut trying to warm my feet up, a couple come down from Mt Arthur. Apparently they had to stop before the summit due to meter-deep snow drifts. So much for that warm and clear forecast! Looking east over the valley it is sunny… So mountains do indeed make their own weather!
Here is Mt Arthur from near the Hut.
After finally eating lunch and warming our feet, we decide to walk the remaining hour back to the car park. The hut is near capacity, and our warm foam mattress is calling. With the snow cover, climbing Mt Arthur would not be enjoyable, even if the clouds did clear.
And so we ended our outing. We have had very good weather this summer in NZ in general. There is a reason that people die in the back country here every year. At higher altitudes, it can drop below freezing any time of the year. Windchill and exhaustion can kill. Had we been hiking without the right gear, this hike could have been dangerous. Thankfully it was just a bit miserable.
