F-350 Cab and Chassis- Suspension lift

[trailridge127]

Hello all,

I have a 2025 F350 cab and chassis on order from from Ford. I went cab and chassis because a good friend of friend is building a custom aluminum flatbed for me and that was his recommendation. I did not know at the time some of the challenges suspension lifts are for CC especially at the 350 build. At 450 and 550 Kelderman or liquid springs are on the table.
Anybody have ideas for a suspension lift. Overland build with the ability to pull gooseneck.

Goal is to fit 35" maybe even 37" tires. And the cc has fuel tank behind axle so am looking to get the frame some more clearance.

I am happy to show design drawings for the flatbed. It is going to be really nice. If anyone is interested.

 

[andy_b]

Hello all,

I have a 2025 F350 cab and chassis on order from from Ford. I went cab and chassis because a good friend of friend is building a custom aluminum flatbed for me and that was his recommendation. I did not know at the time some of the challenges suspension lifts are for CC especially at the 350 build. At 450 and 550 Kelderman or liquid springs are on the table.
Anybody have ideas for a suspension lift. Overland build with the ability to pull gooseneck.

Goal is to fit 35" maybe even 37" tires. And the cc has fuel tank behind axle so am looking to get the frame some more clearance.

I am happy to show design drawings for the flatbed. It is going to be really nice. If anyone is interested.

IIRC, much of the trouble with c&c trucks is with the upper mount on the rear shocks. That should be a problem that a competent fab shop can solve. For the springs, once you have your final weight, I’d get custom rear springs made for the weight and lift you want. Not off the shelf but fairly easy. The front should be the same as a regular 350 since those don’t have the wide axle but I may be wrong.

 

[pappawheely]

Am I wrong in assuming that 35's or 37's would fit easily with no lift or minimal lift? Lift is counterproductive off road unless you're building a mud bogger.

 

[rruff]

I went cab and chassis because a good friend of friend is building a custom aluminum flatbed for me and that was his recommendation.

Cancel it! Well... maybe...

I assume this is something you will take offroad, and C&C has the straight C-channel frame that needs a pivoting bed of some kind. I doubt the "friend of a friend" knows anything about that, and suggested the C&C because he normally makes beds for utility/work trucks...?

The F350 pickup model will simplify things because the frame is fully boxed and very stiff, so the bed can be hard-mounted. If the camper will be on all the time, you only need a very rudimentary "bed" to interface with the camper.

Will the camper be custom built? If so you can make it with hard points that mate with the F350 bed mounts, and you wouldn't need a subframe at all.

 

[andy_b]

Am I wrong in assuming that 35's or 37's would fit easily with no lift or minimal lift? Lift is counterproductive off road unless you're building a mud bogger.

The 2023 and later Super Duties can fit 37s stock, especially with aftermarket wheels with less offset. However, my own experience is that this is for mall-crawlers only. Once there is articulation or the tires get any amount of mud or snow, there is a lot of rubbing on the aft portions of the wheel wells. These trucks need probably 2-3” of front end lift (eg - leveling kit at the bare minimum) for max off-road performance with 37s.

The rubbing isn’t serious but 37s, plus off-road articulation +/- mud, plus a fully loaded camper means a small lift is needed, IMHO.

 

[trailridge127]

There was a typo. A good friend of mine. He is knowledgeable but appreciate the wealth of knowledge from others here. You are correct he has more experience with utility trucks. I am planning on taking this off road but more so to get to nice campsites versus off roading for the sake of it. When it gets hard, I prefer to be on my dirt bike. I like the idea of a pop up, looking at the four-wheel Granby or the OEV flatbed camper Hudson. Intrigued by your builds out there and just started looking at other alternatives. I have read a few threads here recommending the 3-point spring isolation.

We were going to run sandwich clamps up front to allow some movement but the bed will be hard bolted at the gooseneck and the bumper pull assembly. What 3 points springs do you recommend.

Thank you for the information

 

[andy_b]

Cancel it! Well... maybe...

I assume this is something you will take offroad, and C&C has the straight C-channel frame that needs a pivoting bed of some kind. I doubt the "friend of a friend" knows anything about that, and suggested the C&C because he normally makes beds for utility/work trucks...?

The F350 pickup model will simplify things because the frame is fully boxed and very stiff, so the bed can be hard-mounted. If the camper will be on all the time, you only need a very rudimentary "bed" to interface with the camper.

Will the camper be custom built? If so you can make it with hard points that mate with the F350 bed mounts, and you wouldn't need a subframe at all.

I think the counterpoint is that the flat rails of the C&C means the flatbed is easier to mount and building a subframe is easier to design and cheaper to fabricate. Assuming you’re ok with the other compromises associated with a C&C (like the suspension you’re asking about or the whole SRW vs DRW debate), it is always better.

 

[trailridge127]

Thank you all for the good information. Maybe a leveling kit with upgraded springs and shocks with air bags might get me where I want to be. It has been a good learning experience, and it has just started.

 

[trailridge127]

 

[andy_b]

Thank you all for the good information. Maybe a leveling kit with upgraded springs and shocks with air bags might get me where I want to be. It has been a good learning experience, and it has just started.

If your springs are made properly, you shouldn’t need airbags. I’m only running airbags for leveling at camp these days (Mainly bc I had them lying around).

 

[trailridge127]

Reason for two receivers: One for towing the other for 2" for dirt bike rack. L track on the side rails which will be 2x3 aluminum tubing. Decking is 1" aluminum extrusions. Cross member 2" tube. The Channel runners are TBD but 4- 6" C channel. all aluminum

 

[klahanie]

IIRC, much of the trouble with c&c trucks is with the upper mount on the rear shocks. That should be a problem that a competent fab shop can solve.

Interesting, hadn't heard. FWIW here's a pic of late model F550 (driver's side)



and my F350 from 15 years ago (passenger side). I notice the F550s now have an added heat shield (at least on the diesels)



Similar, maybe not as strong ?, but you'd have to check the current builds.

Funny I did have a problem with the lower rear shock mount. They are u-bolted onto a stud on the axle tube (my era) and I managed to break it and rotate it up. I guess the shock was too short and I ran one whoops too many.

Agreed, the front sb same as the F2/350 pick ups. The rear shocks sb shorter than the PU version, and the rear leaf springs will be shorter (eye to eye).

From what I've read, 35s should fit stock up front. A 37 wouldn't need much - a coil spring spacer would prob do it (and longer front shocks).
Rear could be leaf spring work for a lift.

 

[andy_b]

Interesting, hadn't heard. FWIW here's a pic of late model F550 (driver's side)

View attachment 866838

and my F350 from 15 years ago (passenger side). I notice the F550s now have an added heat shield (at least on the diesels)

View attachment 866839

Similar, maybe not as strong ?, but you'd have to check the current builds.

Funny I did have a problem with the lower rear shock mount. They are u-bolted onto a stud on the axle tube and I managed to break it and rotate it up. I guess the shock was too short and I ran one whoops too many.

Agreed, the front sb same as the F2/350 pick ups. The rear shocks sb shorter than the PU version, and the rear leaf springs will be shorter (eye to eye).

From what I've read, 35s should fit stock. A 37 wouldn't need much - a coil spring spacer would prob do it (and longer front shocks).
Rear could be leaf spring work.

I have to be honest and say I’m not 100% familiar with the limitations of the C&C suspension mods. I know that besides being flat, the spacing between the rails is different between the two. Ultimately, the main issue is that no one has an off-the-shelf solution but that doesn’t mean it isn’t solvable. Just requires calling around and maybe a few more $$$ compared to a pickup.

A new to me alternative to a regular space was this adjustable spacer from OUO. I’m running this now with some Icon coils and it is working pretty well. Normally, I’m not a huge fan of spacer lifts but this solution also lets me adjust the stance perfectly which helps my OCD lol.

 

[rruff]

I think the counterpoint is that the flat rails of the C&C means the flatbed is easier to mount and building a subframe is easier to design and cheaper to fabricate.

For an overland build it needs to articulate though, which ends up making it much more expensive... and usually difficult for most people. Mounting is easy on a pickup frame if you just use the bed-mount points.

 

[andy_b]

For an overland build it needs to articulate though, which ends up making it much more expensive... and usually difficult for most people. Mounting is easy on a pickup frame if you just use the bed-mount points.

I agree that off-road vehicles need some means of articulation. I’m comparing apples to apples - building a subframe or dynamic mount for a C&C frame is easier and cheaper than doing the same on a pickup.