Nice find. Will bookmark. I ended up putting 2 different coils rates in to help my left/right side ocd !
Thank you for letting me know I am not alone in my need for symmetry! I feel seen.
Nice find. Will bookmark. I ended up putting 2 different coils rates in to help my left/right side ocd !
"I agree that off-road vehicles need some means of articulation. I’m comparing apples to apples - building a subframe or dynamic mount for a C&C frame is easier and cheaper than doing the same on a pickup."
^ But since the pickup doesn't need one, and the C&C does...
The reason for the articulating frame is so the frame twist doesn't over-stress the camper... which will not be nearly as flexible. The PU frames don't twist, so no reason for it. You could use cab/bed mounts in between the frame and camper if you wanted.I think all campers like this that are intended to be heavy and used off-road should have some way to isolate the camper body from the vehicle.
In either case, deck height would be determined by tire height and up travel plus articulation, if you are optimizing... and you don't want it to rub. Also, I didn't realize the C&C had shorter leafs... that will negatively effect suspension travel and performance.Regardless, the C&C gives an extra foot of frame to work with and the deck has the potential to be at a lower load height.
All I'm saying is that the deck either needs to articulate, or it needs to be the PU frame. Articulating frames I've seen for sale are very expensive. I don't think they need to be, but they are. Most people DIY, as I did myself.I for one won't rain on their parade like some might (not you Andy) I mean ... guys getting a brand new truck and a custom deck, c'mon be happy for the him !
I made a pseudo 3 point using poly isolators... generic Energy Suspension cab mounts. 4 in the front spaced wide, and 2 in the rear on the centerline. If I did it over, I'd put 4 in the rear also. They are cheap and easy to use and there is no downside to having more. It's working great so far.What 3 points springs do you recommend.
Last year's northern winter trip averaged 22.2 L/100 including fuel burned in the Webasto. 30, that's a beast, F550 right? Maybe just leave the jacuzzi at homeNice, so around 23L/100 ? I'm expecting 30 with a new rig (!).
Any chance you can post a few photos of the subframe?More data for the OP. Our cabin mounts to an F350 c&c (scab with the 7.3 gas engine) via a 3-pt pivoting suspension which keeps the cabin as low as possible. The result is superb road manners, virtually unaffected by crosswinds, and none of the vices associated with a higher centre of gravity. There is no frame-mounted aux gasoline tank available for my 2020 srw c&c and no room with my set-up if there was. Still, I can carry 100L (26 US gal) externally in addition to the onboard 150L (40 US gal) for a range of around 1100 km or 680 miles. I want more but a little voice says I shouldn't even consider stashing a few cans inside the cab...
On the suspension side, we did upgrade to custom Radflo shocks but otherwise stock. The c&c rear spring pack has served us well. When we traversed numerous tank-traps on a deactivated logging road last year, the first thing that rubbed was the cab running boards, followed by the rear hitch receiver (didn't bend anything though). I'll be installing shortened brackets this spring to cure the first.
Did a few tripods here but never felt tippy...
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Unfortunately not, the manufacturer didn’t provide any.Any chance you can post a few photos of the subframe?