F-350 Cab and Chassis- Suspension lift

[klahanie]

I have to be honest and say I’m not 100% familiar with the limitations of the C&C suspension mods. I know that besides being flat, the spacing between the rails is different between the two. Ultimately, the main issue is that no one has an off-the-shelf solution but that doesn’t mean it isn’t solvable. Just requires calling around and maybe a few more $$$ compared to a pickup.

A new to me alternative to a regular space was this adjustable spacer from OUO. I’m running this now with some Icon coils and it is working pretty well. Normally, I’m not a huge fan of spacer lifts but this solution also lets me adjust the stance perfectly which helps my OCD lol.

Nice find. Will bookmark. I ended up putting 2 different coils rates in to help my left/right side ocd !

 

[andy_b]

Nice find. Will bookmark. I ended up putting 2 different coils rates in to help my left/right side ocd !

Thank you for letting me know I am not alone in my need for symmetry! I feel seen.

 

[rruff]

"I agree that off-road vehicles need some means of articulation. I’m comparing apples to apples - building a subframe or dynamic mount for a C&C frame is easier and cheaper than doing the same on a pickup."

^ But since the pickup doesn't need one, and the C&C does...

 

[andy_b]

"I agree that off-road vehicles need some means of articulation. I’m comparing apples to apples - building a subframe or dynamic mount for a C&C frame is easier and cheaper than doing the same on a pickup."

^ But since the pickup doesn't need one, and the C&C does...

But no one “knows” either of these positions. The OP never mentioned what specifically he is getting - he mentioned a crappy stick built camper or a modern composite one. For my own use, TC told me their composite camper bodies must be isolated, even on a modern boxed F350 pickup chassis.

We all make assumptions and decision based on prior success, but that is different than knowing. I think all campers like this that are intended to be heavy and used off-road should have some way to isolate the camper body from the vehicle. A C&C would be an easier platform to build that on plus all of the other advantages that come with a C&C (if it were a 550).

 

[klahanie]

A C&C would be an easier platform to build that on plus all of the other advantages that come with a C&C (if it were a 550).

Even the F350C&C can have some advantages over the F350 PU.

One might argue (I won't ) that the C&Cs are designed to haul whereas the PUs are maximised for towing. Certainly the F350 C&C shares much of the same architectural design - not frame thickness tho - as it's bigger brothers.

Regardless, the C&C gives an extra foot of frame to work with and the deck has the potential to be at a lower load height. If if an owner won't be using the PU under frame spare tire location (37s for eg) that length could be useful for sorting the "where to put the spare tire" headache.

If they add under-deck boxes to that flat deck there is about 4" more space between the cab and axle, the truck frame is narrower and the leaf spring pack about 11" shorter. All that adds up to more real estate for storage boxes.

Speaking of leaves, mine had 10 vs 3-4 for the PU version. A HD pack that was easier to alter if too stiff and provides more friction dampening.

Big one for me was the ability to add an aux fuel tank between the frame rails. Easy aftermarket for diesel. Harder, but I think (hope !) doable for gas. Not cheap tho, unless it's a dually, then it's just tick off the factory order option box. Others like to carry J cans, that's OK.

In my time the axle gear ratios were a bit lower also and a few other goodies that might not apply now. The standard equip package on the C&Cs might be beneficial for some - for eg. dual alts for gas.

Anyway, my .02, it's all depends on what the OP's application and wants, PU vs C&C.

I for one won't rain on their parade like some might (not you Andy) I mean ... guys getting a brand new truck and a custom deck, c'mon be happy for the him !

 

[rruff]

I think all campers like this that are intended to be heavy and used off-road should have some way to isolate the camper body from the vehicle.

The reason for the articulating frame is so the frame twist doesn't over-stress the camper... which will not be nearly as flexible. The PU frames don't twist, so no reason for it. You could use cab/bed mounts in between the frame and camper if you wanted.

The flatbeds are usually stiff in torsion, which saves the camper... but then adds stress to the truck frame.

Regardless, the C&C gives an extra foot of frame to work with and the deck has the potential to be at a lower load height.

In either case, deck height would be determined by tire height and up travel plus articulation, if you are optimizing... and you don't want it to rub. Also, I didn't realize the C&C had shorter leafs... that will negatively effect suspension travel and performance.

I for one won't rain on their parade like some might (not you Andy) I mean ... guys getting a brand new truck and a custom deck, c'mon be happy for the him !

All I'm saying is that the deck either needs to articulate, or it needs to be the PU frame. Articulating frames I've seen for sale are very expensive. I don't think they need to be, but they are. Most people DIY, as I did myself.

 

[rruff]

What 3 points springs do you recommend.

I made a pseudo 3 point using poly isolators... generic Energy Suspension cab mounts. 4 in the front spaced wide, and 2 in the rear on the centerline. If I did it over, I'd put 4 in the rear also. They are cheap and easy to use and there is no downside to having more. It's working great so far.