F150 upgrades

[Splinter57]

I have a 2019 Lariat F150 3.5 eco boost, 3.55 elect. locking rear axle, 4X4 without FX package. I am putting a camper shell on it and I have added up all the camping gear, me the wife and the dog and it will be at 1600 Lbs MAX while camping and 800 Lbs around town, it’s my daily driver. Payload is 1850 Lbs .I want to take it on easy off roads camping, not rock crawling The question is what upgrades should I do without adding any more weight with things like armor, winch or bumpers. Maybe add stuff later. Of course I think I definitely need AT tires. Staying with stock size 275/65R18, do I get tires with a load rating of SL 116T like I have. A pair of Falken Wildpeak A/T3 for example. Or do I go up to an E rated tire load rated 123 like BFG KO2s. Smother ride on long highway miles, and less added weight with the SL tires, but more durable with the E rated ones. Also, which ones air down better? With this kind of load do I need upgraded leaf springs, shocks or sway bar for better handling ? I suppose I will figure it out as I go but I would like to know what I'm have to look forward to.

 

[Regcabguy]

E-rated tires and maybe some cheap Bilsteins.

 

[CM_CUMMINS]

I have basically the same truck as you but a 2016 so I have some first hand experience on this topic. I went through the same planning stages as you and have worked through different setups till landing on where I am now.

First, always great seeing you keep a close eye on payload. I have a lesser payload then you but when I go out on my multi week trips I'm usually knocking on the door of my 1795# payload. To handle that load, which is mostly in the bed, I did an auto spring add-a-leaf and it was a huge help in handling that load especially offroad. Around town when its empty I barley notice a difference but its not my daily driver so maybe I'm not as critical.

Tires are an important upgrade for sure and I would recommend getting a good set of all terrains and honestly I would stick with the C rated tires and skip the E. They are truly an overkill for these trucks especially if you are staying under max payload. Even a falken wild peak in C rating will feel and look so much beefier than the factory tires. Its not a fair comparison. I had E rated ridge grapplers on factory wheels and ditched them for the same tire but on a 17" wheel in c rated. The ride really improved. You can air down both rated tires just fine. Will the tread last longer on an E rated tire? Maybe?, but by the time you wear out a C rated tire you'll be ready for something new anyways.

As far as a rear sway bar goes, I wouldn't worry about it. Even with a RTT above cab height in the rear I don't get any tippy or uncomfortable feel while driving at freeway speeds or on the trail. Its just one more piece of suspension limiting your articulation in the rear, which is really the only place we have it. The front bar does more than enough for the truck.

I have a pair of Falcon shocks and I have been very happy with them. They replaced my Icons which I was not a fan of at all. I like the rear falcons for the adjustability in the valving. When I'm fully loaded, I flick it to level 2 and it helps with that saggy ass feeling you get off road when you are LOADED and the factory shocks just aren't there.

Hope this helps a little!

 

[jbaucom]

I've been satisfied with the performance of the OE takeoff Goodyear All Terrain Adventure LT275/65R18C that I put on my 2019 F150. The same, or a similar, tire would be a good choice for your use. I prefer LT-metric tires because they normally have deeper tread than p-metric tires, and if you run appropriate air pressures, I've not been able to tell much difference in ride comfort. Too many people run 50+ psi in LT tires when they don't need to. Use a load/inflation table to determine the correct psi to meet the front/rear GAWR, or weigh your truck to determine the proper psi for your load. If you stick to a mild all terrain tread pattern and keep the weight under about 50 pounds, you'll have minimal impact on your fuel economy or highway manners. If you don't carry a 12V compressor, consider buying one and getting a cheap set of deflators so that you can air down when necessary. Without carrying a lot of self recovery gear, airing down is the single best step you can take to try to get unstuck, and it's a good way to add some traction when you're using a mildly aggressive tread.

Depending how much the rear is sagging with your normal load, you may want an add-a-leaf, but an add-a-leaf will raise your rear ride height by about 1.5 inches. If you like the current stance of your truck, you might consider Hellwig helper springs or Timbrens in the rear. These will add support when you're loaded down without raising the rear ride height (or at least not raising it much, in the case of the Hellwig springs). When it's time for shocks, consider adding Bilstein 5100s; they're as economical as any other quality replacement shock and installation costs are the same. I'd suggest setting the fronts 1 notch higher than stock, which would give you about 1" of front lift for more clearance without looking like you need to step up from stock sized tires.

Finally, I'd reconsider adding armor if I were you. You don't have to add rock sliders and heavy steel skid plates, but I'd at least recommend picking up some OE takeoff skid plates. They're cheap at a junkyard and don't weigh too much. I've been as glad to have skid plates for road debris as for off-road protection.

 

[deserteagle56]

I agree with Regcabguy. I live where most of the roads are dirt, not paved. If you drive dirt roads a lot, LT-E tires hold up a lot better to the rocks you will inevitably be running over. I'm not talking big boulders here - I'm talking fist-size rocks on the road surface that can punch their way right through the tread area of a tire.

P-metric tires won't last long on a road like this - eventually a rock you didn't see will get you. LT-C tires are better but not as good as LT-E.

 

[SDDiver5]

I used to have ride rite "air bags" on my old f150. They worked well for adding a little more stiffness when I had a load, might be a good option for you to look at. It was nice because when I didn't have a load, they were deflated and the truck rode at reg stance and I didn't sacrifice any ride quality. When I put a load on I went up some PSI.

Like others have said, I'd look at some Bils 5100. They are a good replacement shock. I went with fox 2.0 all around. It's a bit stiffer on road, but off road it handles great.

As far as tires, it really comes down to personal preference and what you want. It's hard to get opinions on tires on the internet because everyone has a different opinion. I have 315 KO2s and love how aggressive they look and perform offroad, I sacrificed some ride quality because I want offroad quality when I am offroad. Tires will also depend on what type of terrain you will mainly be going on when you're offroad. If you're on maintained forest roads you really dont need anything too special other than your choice of AT tire. If you're mainly on desert terrain like I am it will be different than rock roads like the pic posted above.

I think you should get a few trips under your belt with what you have now and then decide what you want vs. need. Stock F150s are surprisingly capable from factory. Leveled with 305 or 315 tires and a factory E locker, there is not much you wont be able to do.

 

[Splinter57]

Thanks! its sounds like some Bilstein 5100s are in order. I have E rated tires street tires on my old work truck because I was often heavily loaded. I got used to them, and didn't mind until I retired and got my new truck with smooth running p rated tires, big difference. E rated are probably overkill but I seem to always over build everything any way so I will probably go with those. I am picking up an AT Overland Atlas in April, take a few trips, build it out slowly and see what I need for the rear end. Maybe I can cut the weight down further, but realistically I know it seems to just go up. One of the above options is sure to work. I have a small12v compressor and air down tool. I hadn't thought of OE takeoff skid plates; good idea. Cheap and light protection from road debris. I'll find out what I need soon enough!

 

[deserteagle56]

Here is a screen shot of what the BLM rangers recommend for off-highway travel in the desert. Pretty much every ranch pickup I see around here has one or two extra spare tires mounted in the bed.

 

[SDDiver5]

Here is a screen shot of what the BLM rangers recommend for off-highway travel in the desert. Pretty much every ranch pickup I see around here has one or two extra spare tires mounted in the bed.
View attachment 713402

It amazes me the amount of vehicles I see in the desert without a spare or even a matching spare, I have a matching full size spare and my OEM spare under the bed when I offroad. When not offroad I use AAA lol

 

[skrypj]

Another option you might consider is a set of 285/70R17's with a set of raptor wheels. You can score a set of cheap LT285/70R17's in a C-range in either a KO2 or Falken Wildpeak. They are the stock tire on the Wrangler and Gladiator Rubicon respectively and at lot of those guys pull the tires and put on 35's or 37's before they even leave the lot. I got a set of 5 for my Lexus GX from a Wrangler that had like 35 miles on them and there were 3-4 other sets on Craigslist at the same time.

Raptor wheels might be a little harder to find depending on where you live. Here in Utah there is a stead stream of them being posted on Craigslist. My F150 is on a set of raptor KO2's(315/70R17 C-range) and they are quite nice. I really like the ride and handling of the KO2 on the street compared to my previous Duratracs in a 275/60R20.

Also, sway bar. The one thing that really annoys me about offroading in my F150 is how much it gets knocked around because of the sway bar. This is even more true if you have the max tow package(which it sounds like you might have) because they come with a bigger solid bar vs a hollow one. You might consider popping off one end link before you go offroad as it will really smooth out the ride big time.

 

[Grassland]

See if any Super Duty FX4 take off tires available cheap as well. 275/70R18 wrangler something's in a mild AT pattern. Sometimes find those cheap.
OEM skids at least, or something like RCI aluminum ones, or steel if you want to be even safer.
I'd lean towards add a leaf before a helper spring personally. Stock springs are meant for occasionally having a load. If you load it up frequently enough my experience has been they sag and bend.
See how it does on stock shocks as they are pretty new still. Something like Falcon tow/haul adjustable rear shocks seem like a good idea. Quick adjustment between daily, medium, and heavy load dampening.
Everyone above gave some pretty decent advise.
I forget how many flats I had on my own P rates tires in the first 35k KM, have had zero on load E.

If you don't live in an isolated dump of a city like I do you might have luck finding hardly used or take off stuff.

 

[Rovertrader]

I have similar truck, and an advocate of E rated if nothing else the ply rating! I’ve used the Timbren stops and am a fan- unnoticed when empty/light but supportive when loaded. I chose a combo of Fox piggyback fronts and rear from BDS and ICON UCAs due to availability- works great, big improvement in ride vs spacer to level.
The 150 is very capable and quite versatile- minor tweaks can really dial it in.
Enjoy!!

 

[WTS110]

I need to update my avatar and truck build but I've got a '16 Screw 5.5 bed. Bilstein 6112 upfront and 5160 in the rear. Adding Deaver M44's soon to help with weight in rear. I removed my sway bar entirely and it is a much better ride off and on road. I don't take corners fast or anything like that so I am not too concerned and it absorbs uneven bumps so much better. I'm also running Nitto Ridge Grapplers 35x12.5.17 and love them.

 

[WTS110]

 

[NoTraxx]

I’ll cast another vote for the Load range E tires, especially if you plan on airing down. The 8 ply side walls will help and will soften up over time.
I will disagree on not using a rear sway bar. You‘re tapping on the max load, well with in 250ish lbs. Keep the sway bar. If you’re going to have the load up high, even more so.
Air bags or timbres I’ll disagree on as well. That is just a bumper between the frame and axle under load and removes the suspension from the equation. I prefer overload springs, and am currently using RAS HD system. It raised the rear about 1.5“ but is adjustable to the load you have.
I’ll replace the stock shocks when they wear out. None of us are racing the Baja 1000. Nor are we competing in the King of the Hammers to need crazy articulation. This is just fancy camping.
My Lil Red Truck is pulling triple duty as daily driver, ranch truck with a little fancy camping thrown in.