Fuel filter housing on these trucks have a few places that could leak. Wash and clean everything up real good and take a look again and see if you can locate the spot where whatever is leaking drips on the valley floor. That could be a suggestion as to where the leak is coming from. IMHO with fuel actually visually checking for leaks only gets you so far, sometimes you just have to get your hand in there and feel around till you find at leas a trail of the leaking fuel... White paper towels also help, as long as whatever you're wrapping in them is relatively clean to begin with.
I was able to pinpoint the fuel leak with some help from the Truck Shop in Temecula and I am now leak free!
Pretty sure that since you have a 1-ton the 285s will clear, if they don't then the area you'll most likely be trimming would be the corners of the front bumper. By the way you also have the choice of 265/75-16, that's a tire that's just as tall as what you have now but slightly wider, and with 400 lbs higher load rating (good thing since you have that camper back there). The 265s fit on these trucks like they are OEM equipment (and IMHO they really should have been), perfect match for the 7" wide wheels.
I am most likely going to go with the new bfg a/t's in 285. Looking to pick these up in October or November.
The Bronco tank is only 33 gallons, 34-35 if you "harpoon" it and fill till the fuel is right up to the cap. That tank is also a major annoyance to install, to do it right you really want the Bronco frame crossmember it attaches to on one end, good luck finding one of those since they're riveted in place and thus your only source would be either a salvage yard or someone cutting a Bronco up for scrap. You can do without it, we have on our truck, but it's really not worth the aggravation... Instead I'd suggest looking into an aftermarket 38-gallon tank - IIRC the one you want is "Spectra 26E" (could be the 26D so google that one too, but I'm pretty sure it was the 26E model), that will install in the exact place of your factory rear tank, you'll just have to extend the fuel pickup and return lines inside it (I think the kit comes with the tank) and then you'll have to use longer bolts and spacers for the straps and skid plates to reach up to the frame again. Really detailed write-ups can be found on IIRC the PowerstrokeArmy and/or PowerstrokeNation discussion boards.
Can you use your factory skid plate with the 26D?
The ZF must vent thru the shifter tower, as there are no external vents to be seen anywhere on its case. The T-case should be the Borg-Warner 4407 model, pretty sure that comes with a barb fitting in it and a short vent hose already attached to it - I'll verify this for you tomorrow, but if that is indeed the case then it would be as simple as ditching whatever vent hose is in there now and replacing it with a longer one routed up to the firewall or something, very much like how you did your Taco.
Any chance that you were able to pin point the barb fitting on the transfer case? I am planning on installing diff breathers next weekend if my schedule allows it.
RSK or shackle flip? RSK is for the front axle, it moves the shackles from behind the bumper to under the cab, makes the truck more stable and if you buy a kit that allows the use of the longer Superduty ('99-'04 trucks) springs it will also ride much nicer as well. You get some lift out of the affair too, as little as 2-1/4" with the PMF kit, but you can go more if you want to. The shackle flip is for the rear axle, it's best used for getting rid of the factory lift blocks between the springs and the axle - the 4.5" Sky Offroad kit allows you to ditch the blocks and keep the truck at its current ride height, the 6" version will probably work well with a front 2-1/4" RSK from PMF. This is all without touching the factory leaves, if you're going aftermarket then you could just get high-arch rear springs and leave the shackles in their factory form. Actually with that camper right above the rear axle, I'd be very tempted to do just that - when in tension (factory setup) the shackles will try to self-center the axle under load, with the flipped shackles (that puts them in compression) they MAY cause the axle to SLIGHTLY wander left-ride on you with the camper in the bed.
I meant to say the RSK kit from Sky Offroad with new springs on all corners from Atlas springs. I don't plan on get a shackle flip in the rear. Just some taller springs so I can ditch those lift blocks in the rear. This set up will probably raise the truck 2"-3", but I am hoping that the improved ride will compensate for raising the COG.
Your first priority should be making sure she can't slide around in the bed. A simple rubber mat on the bed floor will do wonders for that, but what you really want is some sort of framework that wedges inside the bed and cradles the camper in the position you want it. Also lose those bed-mounted front tie-downs, and instead buy something that bolts to the frame of the truck. Rear tie-downs appear to be going tp the truck's bumper, that should be alright as you want to allow some flex there anyways. Next you'll want the turnbuckles to be of the spring-loaded design, which yours look like they already may be that, if they are you're all set there. These are just basics for any camper that's being used off the nice and smooth paved roads.
