F450 4x4 adventure.
- Thread starter vovka1
- Start date
vovka1
Member
Ok so lots of things happened since last update while waiting on my extremely late order of wheel adapters that got shipped very late and got lost in shipping.
Go the fender flares and bumper got modified for larger tires and everything was painted with raptor liner. My brother helped me cut out a widget from the flares then we took out time plastic welding them back together. Really happy how this turned out.
Rear wheel wells cut out did not do the trim around them yet waiting on better weather.
Go the fender flares and bumper got modified for larger tires and everything was painted with raptor liner. My brother helped me cut out a widget from the flares then we took out time plastic welding them back together. Really happy how this turned out.
Rear wheel wells cut out did not do the trim around them yet waiting on better weather.
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vovka1
Member
Found matching drop steps for the rear so kids can actually get inside with out my help.
Replaced the old and broken power inlet plug.
Made some shallow hols to it to sit flush and braced it a bit so I can actually screw it in to wood and not insulation lol. I wish the factory that builds rvs would use a little commen sense.
Also purchased this handy 90 degree elbow for the heavy power cord so it's not putting so much strain on the outlet.
Replaced the old and broken power inlet plug.
Made some shallow hols to it to sit flush and braced it a bit so I can actually screw it in to wood and not insulation lol. I wish the factory that builds rvs would use a little commen sense.
Also purchased this handy 90 degree elbow for the heavy power cord so it's not putting so much strain on the outlet.
vovka1
Member
Cobra cb radio. It's the kind that the unit hides behind the dash and the grand unit is everything u need.
I mounted the connector in a little cubby on driver's side towards the middle. This will mostly be used when traveling with other rigs and easily removed when we are going solo.
Looks clean and not in the way when not needed and should be useful when needed.
Antenna is mounted to the bottom part of the hood hinge with a custom bracket I made. Nothing really exciting there. Nice part is when driving antenna does not hit the top there on bumps.
I mounted the connector in a little cubby on driver's side towards the middle. This will mostly be used when traveling with other rigs and easily removed when we are going solo.
Looks clean and not in the way when not needed and should be useful when needed.
Antenna is mounted to the bottom part of the hood hinge with a custom bracket I made. Nothing really exciting there. Nice part is when driving antenna does not hit the top there on bumps.
vovka1
Member
FINALLY. Adapters showed up almost a month late.
I primed and painted them to help minimize the rust and it simply looks better this way
You can see these adapters requir you to hamer out your original wheel studs then press them in to adapters then you are able to bolt them tight from the back side of the hub. I used red lock tight on mine.
In the back I also painted the center piece of the hub now that the center hole on the new wheels is much larger then stock wheels it's possible to but wheels on and off with out scratching the centers.
Rear is sitting at 94inches edge of tread to edge of tread and about 8 feet outer bulge of tire to outer bulge of tire.
Adapters are about 1 3/16 thick.
After all said and done alignment was a failed attempt because caster sits at .5 degrees and from all my research it's best at 4 to 5 positive degree so I ordered adjustable radius arms that should be here ina day or 2.
I primed and painted them to help minimize the rust and it simply looks better this way
You can see these adapters requir you to hamer out your original wheel studs then press them in to adapters then you are able to bolt them tight from the back side of the hub. I used red lock tight on mine.
In the back I also painted the center piece of the hub now that the center hole on the new wheels is much larger then stock wheels it's possible to but wheels on and off with out scratching the centers.
Rear is sitting at 94inches edge of tread to edge of tread and about 8 feet outer bulge of tire to outer bulge of tire.
Adapters are about 1 3/16 thick.
After all said and done alignment was a failed attempt because caster sits at .5 degrees and from all my research it's best at 4 to 5 positive degree so I ordered adjustable radius arms that should be here ina day or 2.
vovka1
Member
Couple of you sent me a smg asking about the wheels and adapters and width of the setup
Wheels are 22.5 x 9 alcoa flat face. Made in USA ( there is a bunch on chinese alcoas out there)
Adapters came from Wheels and Million in florida I found them on Facebook.
Review of the adapters front and rears stock center bore is a bit to large they go on to the truck to easy and if u try to wiggle then before torquing them down I could feel a little play on the hub. Fronts have little play between adapters and wheels. Rear wheels went on super tight. Like really tight I am wondering if I will ever remove it incase of a flat.
On top of all that they completely lied about time line and lied again and again when I was able to reach them. And they really do go out of their was to not respond to u. Only got a reply after a bad facebook review. If I bought again I would not do it from them. Just my 2 cents.
The rear is about stock width. Just under 94inches tread to tread. And 8 feet bulge to bulge.
Wheels are 22.5 x 9 alcoa flat face. Made in USA ( there is a bunch on chinese alcoas out there)
Adapters came from Wheels and Million in florida I found them on Facebook.
Review of the adapters front and rears stock center bore is a bit to large they go on to the truck to easy and if u try to wiggle then before torquing them down I could feel a little play on the hub. Fronts have little play between adapters and wheels. Rear wheels went on super tight. Like really tight I am wondering if I will ever remove it incase of a flat.
On top of all that they completely lied about time line and lied again and again when I was able to reach them. And they really do go out of their was to not respond to u. Only got a reply after a bad facebook review. If I bought again I would not do it from them. Just my 2 cents.
The rear is about stock width. Just under 94inches tread to tread. And 8 feet bulge to bulge.
vovka1
Member
Latest update.
Onboard air
So with commercial tires I know I can't really air down for rough terrain but I still wanted air to be available incase I do need to change the pressure in tires and also in the rear air bags. So I installed a craftsman air compressor in one of the storage compartments that I had in my garage.
It's a couple gallon 125 psi 110 volt compressor.
I mounted everything separate so it fits.
I do have a 2500 watt inverter and onboard generator so I did not have a need for a 12 volt system and this cost me 4$ for a 3 foot air hose that goes from tank to switch everything else I already had.
Tank is mounted on the outside on the compartment everything else inside. Also ran power from the power panel to the compartment to run the compressor and now I have power outlet on the side of the rv just incase.
I put fresh oil in it before mounting it in there and I am able to change oil in it when needed with out removing it.
I hard mounted a short 6 foot hose to the switch/pressure sensor and a quick connect is mounted to that short hose this was I don't put pressure on the switch every time I connect and disconnect the air hose and with a 25 foot hose I can reach all 4 tires, air bags and toy hauler (small cargo trailer) tires incase I have that hooked up on our trip.
Some have asked me why I just say why not.
Onboard air
So with commercial tires I know I can't really air down for rough terrain but I still wanted air to be available incase I do need to change the pressure in tires and also in the rear air bags. So I installed a craftsman air compressor in one of the storage compartments that I had in my garage.
It's a couple gallon 125 psi 110 volt compressor.
I mounted everything separate so it fits.
I do have a 2500 watt inverter and onboard generator so I did not have a need for a 12 volt system and this cost me 4$ for a 3 foot air hose that goes from tank to switch everything else I already had.
Tank is mounted on the outside on the compartment everything else inside. Also ran power from the power panel to the compartment to run the compressor and now I have power outlet on the side of the rv just incase.
I put fresh oil in it before mounting it in there and I am able to change oil in it when needed with out removing it.
I hard mounted a short 6 foot hose to the switch/pressure sensor and a quick connect is mounted to that short hose this was I don't put pressure on the switch every time I connect and disconnect the air hose and with a 25 foot hose I can reach all 4 tires, air bags and toy hauler (small cargo trailer) tires incase I have that hooked up on our trip.
Some have asked me why I just say why not.
Bostongeorge7
New member
Awesome information, really appreciate the update! I may do something similar soon just to get that extra clearance, better gears and go to singles. Is there a specific reason you went with steel over the aluminum adaptors? cheers!
Bostongeorge7
New member
Haha I just realized those probably are the aluminum ones, thought the whole painting was because they were steel. My bad!
vovka1
Member
They are steel. After reading hundreds of pages decided steel being stronger that it will be safer.
I did buy aluminum 1st and had to return them because of quality and engineering issues. Long story. Guys that sell aluminum don't recomend going less then 1.5 inch width because of risk of them breaking I couldn't go that wide in the rear and u can see how wide I am in the front already. Steel stronger my rig heavy. So I went with steel
I did buy aluminum 1st and had to return them because of quality and engineering issues. Long story. Guys that sell aluminum don't recomend going less then 1.5 inch width because of risk of them breaking I couldn't go that wide in the rear and u can see how wide I am in the front already. Steel stronger my rig heavy. So I went with steel
vovka1
Member
I guess I missed this one update.
So after a 3.5 inch lift in the front I knew my caster is going to be way off on the alignment rack. I modified my stock radius arms by expending the bottom holes about 3/8 of an inch and was going to weld in washers to make them still be very strong. This still put me at .5 positive caster.
This is with out drop brackets. I don't like drop brackets.
So after alignment I realized that I need more caster. I think 3.5 positive caster is good stock number stock and with a lift ppl say 5 degrees or more positive caster is even better for better ride and reduces the risk of death wobble.
I purchased Zone offroad radius arms that are ment for 4-6 inch lift. I set the setting to the high side and ended up with about 6.3 drivers and 6.7 degree pass side. After install it Drives well, way better then at .5 degrees. I do feel some steering feedback it's not bad but I never felt it like this before. I may or may not lower the setting and drive it around to see how it feels on the lower setting later.
Btw overall these aftermarket radius arms are heavy beefy and way stronger then stock overall very pleased that I upgraded and they are longer a bit on the bottom holes so the caster sits at a much better angle. They were under 400 shipped from some website I found online so thats why I didn't buy fancy $1000 tube style radius arms lol. Can't have it all.
So after a 3.5 inch lift in the front I knew my caster is going to be way off on the alignment rack. I modified my stock radius arms by expending the bottom holes about 3/8 of an inch and was going to weld in washers to make them still be very strong. This still put me at .5 positive caster.
This is with out drop brackets. I don't like drop brackets.
So after alignment I realized that I need more caster. I think 3.5 positive caster is good stock number stock and with a lift ppl say 5 degrees or more positive caster is even better for better ride and reduces the risk of death wobble.
I purchased Zone offroad radius arms that are ment for 4-6 inch lift. I set the setting to the high side and ended up with about 6.3 drivers and 6.7 degree pass side. After install it Drives well, way better then at .5 degrees. I do feel some steering feedback it's not bad but I never felt it like this before. I may or may not lower the setting and drive it around to see how it feels on the lower setting later.
Btw overall these aftermarket radius arms are heavy beefy and way stronger then stock overall very pleased that I upgraded and they are longer a bit on the bottom holes so the caster sits at a much better angle. They were under 400 shipped from some website I found online so thats why I didn't buy fancy $1000 tube style radius arms lol. Can't have it all.
vovka1
Member
So the rv is very stable and does not really bounce inside when camping but still could be better. So I bought couple square trailer tongue jacks with extensions and welded them to the rear bumper in the gap that between rv and bumper.
I cut the handles off and welded a lug nut there so I can raise and lower with an impact driver. (I go slow to make them last)
They swivel and hide there in between so I like that I don't have to store them in limited outside storage and don't have to carry them around to set up. Swivel down, add the extension (extension hase a large foot so they are stored in storage box) and lower it down to stabilize and actually can raise the rv to help level a bit too.
Mistakes were made with placement at 1st so I moved them over a bit so they can actually fit and swivel.
I need to take better pictures how they hide away.
Very basic setup a pie inside a pipe with grease in-between to help swivel. Pipe in the bumper goes all the way to the outside wall and welded on inside wall around the pipe and welded on outside wall to make it a bit stronger. Hard to explain should have taken more pictures.
I cut the handles off and welded a lug nut there so I can raise and lower with an impact driver. (I go slow to make them last)
They swivel and hide there in between so I like that I don't have to store them in limited outside storage and don't have to carry them around to set up. Swivel down, add the extension (extension hase a large foot so they are stored in storage box) and lower it down to stabilize and actually can raise the rv to help level a bit too.
Mistakes were made with placement at 1st so I moved them over a bit so they can actually fit and swivel.
I need to take better pictures how they hide away.
Very basic setup a pie inside a pipe with grease in-between to help swivel. Pipe in the bumper goes all the way to the outside wall and welded on inside wall around the pipe and welded on outside wall to make it a bit stronger. Hard to explain should have taken more pictures.
vovka1
Member
Update with pictures.
U can see in the photo that the jacks are totaly hiding in the storage position if ur looking from the back.
Also little hooks are visible that's how they hold up and away pressed against the frame rail and incase they come loose on a long drive the hooks will hold them up.
U can see in the photo that the jacks are totaly hiding in the storage position if ur looking from the back.
Also little hooks are visible that's how they hold up and away pressed against the frame rail and incase they come loose on a long drive the hooks will hold them up.
How have I not found this thread sooner? Love the rig and the mods, we’re also quad 4 owners and are up on Snoqualmie. Haven’t done quite as much as you so far but would love to compare notes and copy some ideas. This weekend I’m out at Allen’s Bar on the Hoh River, having 4wd and some ground clearance helps get out away from the masses.
