OCD Overland
Explorer
By the way. That 18" clearance he mentions is even more than the Kimberley Karavan with the air suspension.
Even so, the departure angle is probably abysmal.
Even so, the departure angle is probably abysmal.
Fabricating a powered dust filtration system?
- Thread starter John E Davies
- Start date
John E Davies
Adventurer
Exactly! Plus the step hanging down, which can be easily corrected.
This is why it needs a spring over axle fix, at the very least.
John Davies
Spokane WA USA
OCD Overland
Explorer
Best thing you could do for departure angle would be to chop off that bumper, but there's too much utility in that to get rid of it. Are you ordering the single step? That one barely drops beneath the frame...
John E Davies
Adventurer
The rear bumper compartment is cool with its internal dump and vast storage, I would not want it to go away. Lifting the frame will be adequate for me.
A double step is good, I need to have easy access for my aging bones and my dogs. I can make it unbolt from the frame for nasty roads, but the single step will be too high.
John Davies
Spokane WA
Hi everyone
First of all I'm a newbie and I've been lurking for a bit, love this forums build vehicles.
Were in Western Australia and have a off road pop top caravan and Dmax tow vehicle set up for free camping away from the crowds.
Looking at doing an expedition vehicle build down the track.
I made a dust pressurisation system for our van and it works. Previous to fitting we had a dust problem. It wasnt pouring in to the van, but after a several hours of dirt we would have a slight film of dust over surfaces and inside some cupboards etc.
On a recent 3 month trip we did over 1500km of dirt and had no dust ingress.
You need to make sure all seams, joints, doors etc are sealed, especially toward the back as that is the low pressure area, and around the wheel arch area.
I used Sika to go over joints under the van, around wheel arches etc.
Our fridge is 12/240v so there is no venting for fridge.
I also have a sealed hatch lid over the HWS and ducted gas heating vents.
So there are no vents to the van anywhere, as it is a custom built offroad job.
If you have vents the volume of air required would be huge.
Air intake is a Donaldson air filter with cyclone prefilter. It is fitted down low on the A frame, but behind a large box and I also have a Stone Stomper fitted(awesome product if you havent seen them), so the intake has a fairly clean air supply. I did this as trying to get it up high was too ugly and intrusive.
The fan I used is an inline Rule 3" 135cfm inline bilge fan.
I used 100mm x 50mm plastic downpipe for the ducting, as it is light and compact in height for where I had to run it.
The outlet I used was to match the interior decor.
The inline fan is manually switched on when we hit the dirt roads and current draw is 2.9 amps so not a problem for my set up(solar and vehicle supply). Fan isnt continous duty rated, but Ive had it running for up to 6 hrs non stop without a problem. They are cheap and easily available, $50 compared to $400 for continous run rated.
If I start the fan with the van door open I can feel a fair bit of air coming from outlet. If I shut the door there is hardly any airflow, proving van is well sealed and pressurised.
Sorry cant post photos as I'm new, must be forum restrictions.
Anyway hope this helps and again hi to all.
Cheers Glen
First of all I'm a newbie and I've been lurking for a bit, love this forums build vehicles.
Were in Western Australia and have a off road pop top caravan and Dmax tow vehicle set up for free camping away from the crowds.
Looking at doing an expedition vehicle build down the track.
I made a dust pressurisation system for our van and it works. Previous to fitting we had a dust problem. It wasnt pouring in to the van, but after a several hours of dirt we would have a slight film of dust over surfaces and inside some cupboards etc.
On a recent 3 month trip we did over 1500km of dirt and had no dust ingress.
You need to make sure all seams, joints, doors etc are sealed, especially toward the back as that is the low pressure area, and around the wheel arch area.
I used Sika to go over joints under the van, around wheel arches etc.
Our fridge is 12/240v so there is no venting for fridge.
I also have a sealed hatch lid over the HWS and ducted gas heating vents.
So there are no vents to the van anywhere, as it is a custom built offroad job.
If you have vents the volume of air required would be huge.
Air intake is a Donaldson air filter with cyclone prefilter. It is fitted down low on the A frame, but behind a large box and I also have a Stone Stomper fitted(awesome product if you havent seen them), so the intake has a fairly clean air supply. I did this as trying to get it up high was too ugly and intrusive.
The fan I used is an inline Rule 3" 135cfm inline bilge fan.
I used 100mm x 50mm plastic downpipe for the ducting, as it is light and compact in height for where I had to run it.
The outlet I used was to match the interior decor.
The inline fan is manually switched on when we hit the dirt roads and current draw is 2.9 amps so not a problem for my set up(solar and vehicle supply). Fan isnt continous duty rated, but Ive had it running for up to 6 hrs non stop without a problem. They are cheap and easily available, $50 compared to $400 for continous run rated.
If I start the fan with the van door open I can feel a fair bit of air coming from outlet. If I shut the door there is hardly any airflow, proving van is well sealed and pressurised.
Sorry cant post photos as I'm new, must be forum restrictions.
Anyway hope this helps and again hi to all.
Cheers Glen
John E Davies
Adventurer
That was a great post, are you able to post some pictures now? I am very interested. I love the idea of the filter box mounted low on the frame. How often do you have to replace the filter?
Thanks,
John Davies
Spokane WA USA (Washington, not West Aust)
Don't confuse pressurizing a room or camper just with CFM. If your camper only leaks 10 CFM of air and you get a fan that pushes 100CFM you can only push 10 CFM of air into the camper to replace the air that is leaking out. That extra 90 CFM does not automatically mean your pressure will increase. It all depends on the type of fan or blower you have. You only need a fan/blower that will push 10 CFM, but it needs to be able to increase the Static Pressure. Some fans are designed to move a lot of air, others are designed to make high pressures. You need to find one that does both. most computer fans are for moving air, but you can find high pressure computer fans. Also Google "high static pressure 12v fans". You can find some small fans with a 2" water column Static Pressure and 30-50 CFM. Keep in mind that the finer the filter you use he more SP you need to push air through it.
I really like this idea for keeping the dust down inside the camper. I'm in the planning stages for a TD and may do this. I like the idea of the scoop mounted high but what happen when you are only doing 15 MPH? I don't know how good that would work.
I really like this idea for keeping the dust down inside the camper. I'm in the planning stages for a TD and may do this. I like the idea of the scoop mounted high but what happen when you are only doing 15 MPH? I don't know how good that would work.
oliverlove
Adventurer
How did this work out? Did you end up mounting something?
Very interesting, my GF and I have some breathing issues and cleaner air would be nice.
That PVC air badder has me thinking of mold/mildew forming from condensation, how is that prevented? Ever smell the stale air from deflating an air bed?
I don't think an air cleaner off a carb, will address pollen, there are filters that do like a vacuum cleaner.
If air intake can be "washed" much cleaner air can be had.......idea to employ this old technology from 1971;
https://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe...ackDesc=Results page&MaximumPages=2&ZyEntry=1
Wow, sorry the address is so long.
Actually, vapor injectors were used in aircraft in WWII, even older technology.
It's a Mark II vapor injector, a tube with a valve on top of a jar lid with the jar being about half full of water. The intake tube goes to the bottom of the water, another valve on the jar lid suck air from inside the jar above the water. The result is outside air comes in to the bottom of the water and rises to the top where it is then sucked out, the water collects all or most all air particles.
Drawing air off the top isn't hard, you can suck on the tube like a straw in a drink and draw air through the system.
Instead of a heavy glass jar you might use a pipe or a thermos, you need to be able to change the water too.
Additives such as bleach or air freshener might be added.
Someone mentioned a water column, is this what they referred to?
This may act like a humidifier, if that isn't desired additives might cure the issues.
The valves and diameter of the air lines determine the amount of air and placement of the air intake from outside is rather irrelevant.
I fabricated a crude jug without valves through the HVAC unit on an M292 expandable van, it washed tear gas out of the air, not a trace inside.
That PVC air badder has me thinking of mold/mildew forming from condensation, how is that prevented? Ever smell the stale air from deflating an air bed?
I don't think an air cleaner off a carb, will address pollen, there are filters that do like a vacuum cleaner.
If air intake can be "washed" much cleaner air can be had.......idea to employ this old technology from 1971;
https://nepis.epa.gov/Exe/ZyNET.exe...ackDesc=Results page&MaximumPages=2&ZyEntry=1
Wow, sorry the address is so long.
Actually, vapor injectors were used in aircraft in WWII, even older technology.
It's a Mark II vapor injector, a tube with a valve on top of a jar lid with the jar being about half full of water. The intake tube goes to the bottom of the water, another valve on the jar lid suck air from inside the jar above the water. The result is outside air comes in to the bottom of the water and rises to the top where it is then sucked out, the water collects all or most all air particles.
Drawing air off the top isn't hard, you can suck on the tube like a straw in a drink and draw air through the system.
Instead of a heavy glass jar you might use a pipe or a thermos, you need to be able to change the water too.
Additives such as bleach or air freshener might be added.
Someone mentioned a water column, is this what they referred to?
This may act like a humidifier, if that isn't desired additives might cure the issues.
The valves and diameter of the air lines determine the amount of air and placement of the air intake from outside is rather irrelevant.
I fabricated a crude jug without valves through the HVAC unit on an M292 expandable van, it washed tear gas out of the air, not a trace inside.
So havent checked this post for ages.
I installed a dust suppression system consisting of a Donaldson air filter,* a Rule inline 3" bilge fan and used plastic down pipe for the ducting.
Van needs to be pretty well air tight. Go over every seam etc and reseal if necessary. My van has no vents for 3 way fridges etc, it has compressor fridge. You need it pretty well air tight to achieve a positive pressure. I noticed heavy corrogation is worst for dust ingress. My theory is the door pulses causing it to allow dust in. Now with the fan it is 99% eliminated.
Cheers Glen
I installed a dust suppression system consisting of a Donaldson air filter,* a Rule inline 3" bilge fan and used plastic down pipe for the ducting.
Van needs to be pretty well air tight. Go over every seam etc and reseal if necessary. My van has no vents for 3 way fridges etc, it has compressor fridge. You need it pretty well air tight to achieve a positive pressure. I noticed heavy corrogation is worst for dust ingress. My theory is the door pulses causing it to allow dust in. Now with the fan it is 99% eliminated.
Cheers Glen