fastening to aluminum square tubing

[jgaz]

If you need the rivet to seal be sure to use a rivet where part of the stem stays in the rivet after it breaks off.
You can see what I mean in the picture below.


Someone smarter than I will have tell you how to seal rivets water tight if that’s what you require. I’ve only used adhesive to add strength to an assembly not make it water tight.

 

[s.e.charles]

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View attachment 509323
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thank you; extremely helpful (both posts)

edit: https://www.rivetsonline.com/blind-rivets/closed-end-blind-rivets#2

 

[DarkBladeRunner]

I was on the phone earlier today with 3M for my Cabover Sleeper project and they recommended 3M DP420NS for bonding aluminium (in my case to steel) in environments where it can be subjected to impacts, vibrations, tearing or sheering forces and extreme temperatures.

Might be an interesting alternative to riveting.

https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/co...420NS/?N=5002385+3293241657+3294529206&rt=rud

 

[pugslyyy]

If maintaing the strength of the tubing is critical, have you considered just using square tube clamps to hold everything?

 

[s.e.charles]

interesting to incorporate [adhesive] with mechanical fasteners (for alignment rather than dependency on strength); thanks for the link.

and I think being deliberately vague about the application has brought more information to the thread than if I had expressed a specific scenario. or, another way, being open to possibilities since nothing is committed at this time, but rather still sussing out a plan.

 

[s.e.charles]

If maintaing the strength of the tubing is critical, have you considered just using square tube clamps to hold everything?

still at the "thinking" stage, but initially I want to attach a parallel plate to a tube which already has a sheet of .032" wrapped around it. it will be a sandwich of plate/ sheet/ tube (wall).

seeing the above adhesive suggestion adds the inclusion of possible stripping (w/ sandpaper) the factory finish from the aluminum sheet back to bare, but that doesn't appear to be too arduous a task in the overall scheme of things.

 

[DarkBladeRunner]

If maintaing the strength of the tubing is critical, have you considered just using square tube clamps to hold everything?

I’m looking for clamps as an option. Do you have some to recommend?

 

[pugslyyy]

I’m looking for clamps as an option. Do you have some to recommend?

Pretty much any u-bolt, leaf spring clamp, etc that will fit will work. Lots of folks roll their own with threaded rod even. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=u+bolt&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

I've used clamps when I wasn't certain exactly how I wanted something configured - it is a lot easier to move things around when you just clamp it on.

 

[DarkBladeRunner]

Pretty much any u-bolt, leaf spring clamp, etc that will fit will work. Lots of folks roll their own with threaded rod even. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=u+bolt&i=automotive&ref=nb_sb_noss_1

I've used clamps when I wasn't certain exactly how I wanted something configured - it is a lot easier to move things around when you just clamp it on.

Interesting. Not what I thought you meant. But I can see the appeal of the simplicity. (I thought you meant connecting hardware like what is common for connecting round profile tubes - similar to boat railing connectors).

 

[s.e.charles]

Interesting. Not what I thought you meant. But I can see the appeal of the simplicity. (I thought you meant connecting hardware like what is common for connecting round profile tubes - similar to boat railing connectors).

ditto. I was picturing an 80/20 90* connector of sorts.

 

[Alloy]

Generally self tapping screws are banned in my shop. I hate them for a number of reasons. Definitely go with the rivnuts.

I've always liked to drill and tap as I've seen what water + a dissimilar metal does to alum.
Over the last 2 years I've worked on 3 RVs that changed my mind about self tappers. It was easy taking things apart as there were no seized bolts. One was 8 years old with #8 screws into .040" alum. A number of screws that I thought had stripped out were actually broken.

 

[s.e.charles]

maybe more a broad question, but does anti-seize compound compromise fastener holding?

seems stainless steel against aluminum would be benign enough.

 

[DorB]

I’ve used “blind pop rivets”
To build my trucks bed drawers and storage space made from square aluminum tubes(old window frames).

Easy to work with, strong (airplanes are built this way..).

Water tank frame:

 

[javajoe79]

maybe more a broad question, but does anti-seize compound compromise fastener holding?

seems stainless steel against aluminum would be benign enough.

Not if the fastener is tight enough or has other means of locking it like safety wire, cotter pins etc...

 

[s.e.charles]

I hate to respond with another question, but you guys are provoking me to thought!

Q: unless it's a degree in engineering conclusion, how would one determine "tight enough". I have a 1/4" drive torque wrench (which I rarely use) I bought for bike repairs, but unless i'm given the setting to torque, is there a general 'rule of thumb' table somewhere?

for example: Joe wants to attach 1/8" aluminum to 1/8" aluminum with nutserted #8 x 32 tpi x 3/8" RH machine screws.

Q: what is the distance between fasteners and what should the torque (inch pound ???) of the fasteners be?

or is this getting a bit out of hand and I need to be reeled in?