jymmiejamz
Adventurer
An oscilloscope to diagnose CAN bus problems.
First mod to an LR4?
- Thread starter vasily
- Start date
Ray_G
Explorer
Sounds like commentary from recent posts here and other places!
I will reiterate the fridge first comment; everyone wants to add stuff to the outside to look ExpOlicious and such. The fridge changes the game for the family; family likes to do it and better half is happy=more opportunity to use the vehicle as intended.
So do a baseline of maint, make sure she has new shoes (KO2's, prob on 18's but depending on wheeling 20's could work I think), IID...and then I'm telling you, get a fridge. You won't regret it and unlike bumpers, sliders, and everything else it will come in handy every single trip and often just driving around.
r
Ray
Jwestpro
Explorer
So many people go off and buy a roof rack without having the slightest idea of why except they think they need to or it's cool. In reality it's one of the least useful things unless you know exactly what it's for.
No roof tent requires a full rack, only cross bars are needed and most items you see up there just don't need to be or are better lower for weight reasons such as tires (really dumb esp if 90lb E load range oversized AT's), high-lifts, etc.
People just seem to go bananas for racks though yet still haul ice in coolers, drain their only battery, use crappy tires and/or 20" wheels, and have no way of addressing CEL, and other issues.
1st's -if actually going out to day-play: super basic recovery items like a shovel and traction device that is a multi-purpose design, not just whimpy/squishy tracks but actual bridging ladders (a rigid structure has at least the following uses: traction in mud,sand, snow, etc; bridging gaps, ramping up/down ledges, but also as blocking under tires to level a vehicle on odd terrain for camping, a standing platform on the rood negating need for a rack to stand on to take photos, etc; rigid traction devices can also be used as a jacking platform in soft surfaces for tire changes, etc. Put these on two saw horses and you have a table for cooking on! ...there are probably even more creative uses
The flexible ones like Maxtrax basically do only one thing while also being limited in their vehicle mounting options....
1st's -if going more camping, then fridge, possibly before tires or anything but IMO ..... this also requires a 2nd battery unless you like asking for a jump start.
*a lot of new lr3 owners don't realize that a full size spare was not a standard feature until they are in need during a road side flat tire event.... wrong time especially if you're on a long road trip or especially if you've changed to larger tires. You can go a lot of places on a 19 or 20" wheel/tire but you can't really be doing much of anything except finding the nearest tire shop if you're stuck using a skinny doughnut spare. Even HSE models didn't have the full size unless the HD option was built.
Along the same lines, a means of reliable air supply so you can use lower pressures off pavement. Even many miles of forest road are much nicer at 30 psi than 40+ but of course be sure you're on a tire rated for the stresses caused by running lower psi in the first place. Don't rely on the little tools for wheel changes, just bring a 24"+ breaker bar and 23mm deep socket (new the nuts are 22mm but over time your shops like to ruin your stuff by using impact tools on these steel covered nuts which deforms them such that 22mm barely fits anymore, thus 7/8" or 23mm will be used by them and now you too OR, replace the factory nuts with Gorilla brand which are solid and don't deform from the 22mm Might as well if you go for black wheels too.
A note about the freezer/fridge people mentioned....HECK YEAH. You'll use it to go grocery shopping when you then want to also go do something else before arriving home. You can go hunting or fishing and put it all into freeze if needed, or take frozen goods for a week of camping, etc. It's awesome.
No roof tent requires a full rack, only cross bars are needed and most items you see up there just don't need to be or are better lower for weight reasons such as tires (really dumb esp if 90lb E load range oversized AT's), high-lifts, etc.
People just seem to go bananas for racks though yet still haul ice in coolers, drain their only battery, use crappy tires and/or 20" wheels, and have no way of addressing CEL, and other issues.
1st's -if actually going out to day-play: super basic recovery items like a shovel and traction device that is a multi-purpose design, not just whimpy/squishy tracks but actual bridging ladders (a rigid structure has at least the following uses: traction in mud,sand, snow, etc; bridging gaps, ramping up/down ledges, but also as blocking under tires to level a vehicle on odd terrain for camping, a standing platform on the rood negating need for a rack to stand on to take photos, etc; rigid traction devices can also be used as a jacking platform in soft surfaces for tire changes, etc. Put these on two saw horses and you have a table for cooking on! ...there are probably even more creative uses
The flexible ones like Maxtrax basically do only one thing while also being limited in their vehicle mounting options....1st's -if going more camping, then fridge, possibly before tires or anything but IMO ..... this also requires a 2nd battery unless you like asking for a jump start.
*a lot of new lr3 owners don't realize that a full size spare was not a standard feature until they are in need during a road side flat tire event.... wrong time especially if you're on a long road trip or especially if you've changed to larger tires. You can go a lot of places on a 19 or 20" wheel/tire but you can't really be doing much of anything except finding the nearest tire shop if you're stuck using a skinny doughnut spare. Even HSE models didn't have the full size unless the HD option was built.
Along the same lines, a means of reliable air supply so you can use lower pressures off pavement. Even many miles of forest road are much nicer at 30 psi than 40+ but of course be sure you're on a tire rated for the stresses caused by running lower psi in the first place. Don't rely on the little tools for wheel changes, just bring a 24"+ breaker bar and 23mm deep socket (new the nuts are 22mm but over time your shops like to ruin your stuff by using impact tools on these steel covered nuts which deforms them such that 22mm barely fits anymore, thus 7/8" or 23mm will be used by them and now you too
OR, replace the factory nuts with Gorilla brand which are solid and don't deform from the 22mm Might as well if you go for black wheels too.A note about the freezer/fridge people mentioned....HECK YEAH. You'll use it to go grocery shopping when you then want to also go do something else before arriving home. You can go hunting or fishing and put it all into freeze if needed, or take frozen goods for a week of camping, etc. It's awesome.
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part time nomad
Adventurer
jwestpro, bit of a Land Rover man then like myself!
krick3tt
Adventurer
My 07 LR3 comes with full size spare. Apparently some of the Rovers have the tiny spare, totally useless unless it is used for running to the mall and getting groceries.
I now have the spare on a Tactical 4X swing away tire carrier so that space is empty and I am trying to decide what to use it for, ideas are formulating.
I have a roof rack to haul those things that are light (except the OZ tent) such as ax, shovel, propane tank, campfire in a can and solar panels to name a few, so I don't have to have them inside taking up sleeping space. Previously had ex-military vehicles with soft tops and couldn't really put things up top. Had to get really creative with storage items. Have had an ARB fridge for years, solid investment.
Oh yeah, sliders were initial install along with non-stock bumpers front and rear with good tow/recovery points. Just installed a snorkel to cut down on the intake of dust, lots of dust on off-road trails here. Dual battery system to keep the starting battery isolated and to run lights and fridge.
It is amazing what I have found to spend money on besides the regular maintenance items to keep it running and moving down the road.
Happy trails
I now have the spare on a Tactical 4X swing away tire carrier so that space is empty and I am trying to decide what to use it for, ideas are formulating.
I have a roof rack to haul those things that are light (except the OZ tent) such as ax, shovel, propane tank, campfire in a can and solar panels to name a few, so I don't have to have them inside taking up sleeping space. Previously had ex-military vehicles with soft tops and couldn't really put things up top. Had to get really creative with storage items. Have had an ARB fridge for years, solid investment.
Oh yeah, sliders were initial install along with non-stock bumpers front and rear with good tow/recovery points. Just installed a snorkel to cut down on the intake of dust, lots of dust on off-road trails here. Dual battery system to keep the starting battery isolated and to run lights and fridge.
It is amazing what I have found to spend money on besides the regular maintenance items to keep it running and moving down the road.
Happy trails
I might as well weigh in too.
I'm only going to address mods. I'll assume you have basic maintenance taken care of and already have recovery gear.
1st- Tires. Stock street tires are not adequate for off-road work beyond the occasional gravel road. You don't have to go big, but go to a true AT or mild MT tire. While I and others do run more aggressive MTs, I don't really think it suits the personality of these rigs as they will never be rock crawlers but do make excellent moderate terrain tools. While it's preferable to go down to an 18" wheel, this means either running spacers on a stock LR3 wheel or spending the money for the Compos. The BFG KO2, Cooper AT/3 or ST-Maxx are popular in 18". The Nitto Terra Grappler is popular on the stock 20" wheel. Avoid 19" wheels at all costs....there's nearly no tire options in that size.
2nd - lift. This may be through your GAP tool (You *DO* have a Gap tool, right? That falls under basic maintenance for these trucks) or via lift rods or something like the LLAMS device. You will want a little extra clearance when you get off-road.
3rd - sliders. I favor Tactical Rovers as they also serve as skid plates since the run all the way into the frame rails. If you're going to try anything remotely rocky you'll be glad you have these since these truck have very limited break-over. Additionally if you get sideways the nerf bars can save a door skin.
After that, you can look at any number of things. A fridge is amazing. If you base camp for extended periods, a 2nd battery is nice (I personally don't run one even with a fridge, but I did upgrade to a larger battery). A rack can come in handy but be aware of the drawbacks (noise, clearance, mpg). Bumpers are important if you're going to get serious - I favor Tactical front and rear, though some of Lucky8's front offerings look good as well. I cannot recommend ARB's front bumper for a variety of reasons I've covered ad nausium here before. That rear bumper futher lets you move the spare from under the truck and carry it on a swing out so it's readily accessible if/when you need it. On-board air is great - I favor the Viair dual 400 unit as it seems the best performance for the dollar. A HAM radio is great for communicating with others. Extra skids will come in handy if you like to play in the big rocks; again, I run Tactical's stuff. With that front bumper you can add a winch - and be sure to spring for something in the 10,000lb range as these trucks are HEAVY! The list goes on...
I'm only going to address mods. I'll assume you have basic maintenance taken care of and already have recovery gear.
1st- Tires. Stock street tires are not adequate for off-road work beyond the occasional gravel road. You don't have to go big, but go to a true AT or mild MT tire. While I and others do run more aggressive MTs, I don't really think it suits the personality of these rigs as they will never be rock crawlers but do make excellent moderate terrain tools. While it's preferable to go down to an 18" wheel, this means either running spacers on a stock LR3 wheel or spending the money for the Compos. The BFG KO2, Cooper AT/3 or ST-Maxx are popular in 18". The Nitto Terra Grappler is popular on the stock 20" wheel. Avoid 19" wheels at all costs....there's nearly no tire options in that size.
2nd - lift. This may be through your GAP tool (You *DO* have a Gap tool, right? That falls under basic maintenance for these trucks) or via lift rods or something like the LLAMS device. You will want a little extra clearance when you get off-road.
3rd - sliders. I favor Tactical Rovers as they also serve as skid plates since the run all the way into the frame rails. If you're going to try anything remotely rocky you'll be glad you have these since these truck have very limited break-over. Additionally if you get sideways the nerf bars can save a door skin.
After that, you can look at any number of things. A fridge is amazing. If you base camp for extended periods, a 2nd battery is nice (I personally don't run one even with a fridge, but I did upgrade to a larger battery). A rack can come in handy but be aware of the drawbacks (noise, clearance, mpg). Bumpers are important if you're going to get serious - I favor Tactical front and rear, though some of Lucky8's front offerings look good as well. I cannot recommend ARB's front bumper for a variety of reasons I've covered ad nausium here before. That rear bumper futher lets you move the spare from under the truck and carry it on a swing out so it's readily accessible if/when you need it. On-board air is great - I favor the Viair dual 400 unit as it seems the best performance for the dollar. A HAM radio is great for communicating with others. Extra skids will come in handy if you like to play in the big rocks; again, I run Tactical's stuff. With that front bumper you can add a winch - and be sure to spring for something in the 10,000lb range as these trucks are HEAVY! The list goes on...
ClearwaterScott
Observer
Hitch and wiring harness then tires. I foolishly didn't realize these were add on items, not standard on the LR4.
Then get the wheels and tires it should have come with standard....
Then get the wheels and tires it should have come with standard....
This was actually kinda fun to read up on different opinions and perspectives. Our LR4 is a HD, so the spare is already taken care of. Maintenance is all up to date. The floor of the car is covered in weathertec.
I won't be getting any roof rack as that will not fit in the garage. Sliders and bumpers are cool, but overkill for us. No interest in lift rods either
I'll get the Bluetooth scanner from lucky8, the hitch and trailer wiring, then 18's with KO2s, probably in as close to a stock size as I can get.
and if I come across a good deal on a fridge, I just might have to pick one up!
I won't be getting any roof rack as that will not fit in the garage. Sliders and bumpers are cool, but overkill for us. No interest in lift rods either
I'll get the Bluetooth scanner from lucky8, the hitch and trailer wiring, then 18's with KO2s, probably in as close to a stock size as I can get.
and if I come across a good deal on a fridge, I just might have to pick one up!
mass
Observer
This... perhaps with the addition of the GOE/Johnson/Proud Rhino Rods, if you're planning on running anything larger than 31.5" (the GOE are nice because you can physically drop them to factory height in about 5 minutes, if needed)
The difference between the standard highway tire and a good A/T or M/T is crucial, otherwise you will literally be spinning your tires with thousands of dollars of cool gear on a truck that can't go anywhere.
Then consider a winch... you may think you don't need one, until you need one.
Lastly, if you ever plan on doing anything remote, invest in not just a full-size spare, but TWO! (swing-out bumper/rack/extra interior space is crucial, here) "Two is one, one is none"... nothing beats peace-of-mind.
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jymmiejamz
Adventurer
You must be buying Optima batteries if you can't start your truck after leaving the fridge on for a day or two. I can see needing a boost if you are sitting for days on end without starting the truck, but most people here probably aren't letting their truck sit with the fridge running for more than two nights. I leave mine on in the summer, usually after trips when I'm being lazy and don't feel like emptying it, for a few days and never have an issue. I don't know about other fridges, but my ARB fridge has a low voltage cutoff that is also adjustable. If you think you will need a boost, buy a micro jump box instead of installing some overly complicated dual battery system.
