First suv

Howah

Observer
So yesterday i repaired the starter that went dead on me. Turn on the engine and got it up to operating temp and decided to test the knock sensor by banging on the intake and exhaust manifold with a hammer while at 2000rpm and it didnt affect the engine at all. I disconnect the sensor plug while engine was running and nothing happened, not even a check engine light.
 

Howah

Observer
i think all of this is cause by engine running lean as indicated by o2 sensor. when i floor it, o2 reads .8v but would not hold or increase instead it flucuate down to .1v and .8v. correct me if im wrong but isn't at wot be around 1v and hold steady there.
btw, knock sensor produce voltage by itself and flucuates when i open egr to cause unstable idle.
 

Howah

Observer
so today i decided to check out the fpr and while the intake manifold was off, i saw the knock sensor and it seemed wet on top. i got the ks off and it had some black gooey stuff on it and the wire appeared to have been repaired at the where the wire meets the ks with silicone.

it looks like ill have to order a ks. hope i fix it and not find more parts to replace.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
so today i decided to check out the fpr and while the intake manifold was off, i saw the knock sensor and it seemed wet on top. i got the ks off and it had some black gooey stuff on it and the wire appeared to have been repaired at the where the wire meets the ks with silicone.

it looks like ill have to order a ks. hope i fix it and not find more parts to replace.

No offense intended but with what you've spent in replacement parts it may be worthwhile to consider bringing that to a good mechanic who can look at all the symptoms & diagnose the problem right the first time so you're not parts swapping to figure out what's wrong.
 

Howah

Observer
most of the things that i've replace were either bad for example
the sparks plugs were old and not the right type
spark plug wires were out of spec
ignition coils were out of spec when engine warmed up
tps had a short
tranny filter and fuild were dark as heck
egr had a leak
fuel pump was from my bros civic
idle speed motor couldn't keep constant idle
cat converter was rattling

sooner or later these things had to be replace and it just happens to be all at once.
 

off-roader

Expedition Leader
most of the things that i've replace were either bad for example
the sparks plugs were old and not the right type
spark plug wires were out of spec
ignition coils were out of spec when engine warmed up
tps had a short
tranny filter and fuild were dark as heck
egr had a leak
fuel pump was from my bros civic
idle speed motor couldn't keep constant idle
cat converter was rattling

sooner or later these things had to be replace and it just happens to be all at once.

Ok. Just wanted to be sure you weren't throwing parts at the problem w/out properly diagnosing it. That said, I still recommend you take it to a good diagnostician (can be hard to find one) and let him/her have a stab at it.

As for the Idle Speed Motor, it was also probably bad (common failure item when not kept clean) but did you bother measuring the coil resistance on it to be sure? There's a procedure in the factory manual in case you didn't. I'd check that before you throw it away or send it off to be rebuilt/refurbished.:ylsmoke:
 

Howah

Observer
Case Solved

After lots of headaches I finally found what's wrong and was able to tinker it to work beautifully.

It turned out to be an incorrect crankshaft sensor reluctor/blade. How it got there in the first place is a mystery. I think it was a reluctor from a 3.0 and apparently the 3.0 and 3.5 differ slightly enough to make it run but poorly. I search for a picture for the correct one md185237 and modified the 3.0 as closely as possible to the 3.5 by redrilling two hole and cut the key.

Starts right up and full power unleashed.
 

SoCalMonty

Explorer
After lots of headaches I finally found what's wrong and was able to tinker it to work beautifully.

It turned out to be an incorrect crankshaft sensor reluctor/blade. How it got there in the first place is a mystery. I think it was a reluctor from a 3.0 and apparently the 3.0 and 3.5 differ slightly enough to make it run but poorly. I search for a picture for the correct one md185237 and modified the 3.0 as closely as possible to the 3.5 by redrilling two hole and cut the key.

Starts right up and full power unleashed.

1), where in CA?

2), holy cow...I skipped from page 1 to page 3, but you started this thread in 3/11. Did it take over 2 years to get the Montero running properly, or was that another issue that popped up in between now and then?!?!
 

Howah

Observer
1), where in CA?

2), holy cow...I skipped from page 1 to page 3, but you started this thread in 3/11. Did it take over 2 years to get the Montero running properly, or was that another issue that popped up in between now and then?!?!



1) Stockton

2) it has been collecting dust for the past year and a half. I just recently started messing around with it just happens to check out the timing because somehow it seems that the timing is retarded. It actually been passing smog with the 3.0 reluctor/sensor blade. I stumbled upon a thread regarding a shop installing the same 3.0 reluctor on a 3.8 and just decided to check mine out and was indeed a 3.0 reluctor.
 

Howah

Observer
2012-08-14_174315_timing_on_crank_and_reluctor_plate.jpg
This is the oem 3.5 reluctor blade. See notch placement

2012-08-14_175416_reluctor-1.jpg
Difference between 3.0 and 3.5 blades

Below is my modified reluctor blade
 

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