cumminscruiser
Adventurer
Any good step by step guides for re-attaching and repairing the fiberglass roof from an FJ40. Is Spector the only source for the metal pieces arround the roof?
FJ40 Re-attach the fiberglass roof
- Thread starter cumminscruiser
- Start date
Sloan
Explorer
You might try www.marksoffroad.net . That is a pretty impressive collection of Mopars in your sig line. 
mtnbike28
Expedition Leader
why bother?
I looked into this many moons ago and quickly realized, everyone who did it said never again. Buy a better shape used one. I started looking and ended up with three (2 were free, and $50 for the third one) all in better shape than the one I dumped. Assuming you have a 40, just search out a good used fiberglass top... hth
I looked into this many moons ago and quickly realized, everyone who did it said never again. Buy a better shape used one. I started looking and ended up with three (2 were free, and $50 for the third one) all in better shape than the one I dumped. Assuming you have a 40, just search out a good used fiberglass top... hth
cumminscruiser
Adventurer
FJ 40 top
Yea, been collecting ol mopars for many years, still have the GTX I bought in highschool.
Cool Cruisers has the rain gutters but I wasx hoping for some pictures on how someone made the repair.
Yea, been collecting ol mopars for many years, still have the GTX I bought in highschool.
Cool Cruisers has the rain gutters but I wasx hoping for some pictures on how someone made the repair.
mtnbike28
Expedition Leader
ih8mud
I assume you know about the forums on ih8mud.... again years ago I saw pictures of someone who drilled out all the rivets, then used a different style rivet with the new gutter (which required some modification to fit right) sealed it up with seam sealer (best choice, much better than silicone, etc), etc. Again his response was never again ; )
just one example
http://forum.ih8mud.com/archive/index.php/t-1183.html
good luck
I assume you know about the forums on ih8mud.... again years ago I saw pictures of someone who drilled out all the rivets, then used a different style rivet with the new gutter (which required some modification to fit right) sealed it up with seam sealer (best choice, much better than silicone, etc), etc. Again his response was never again ; )
just one example
http://forum.ih8mud.com/archive/index.php/t-1183.html
good luck
cumminscruiser
Adventurer
FJ 40 top
Thanks for the I8MUD link I dont know my way around that site so well but is looks like it's in the right direction. It may be a huge pain, to repair the roof but when I bought my '40 is was a basket case (rust). I took it to work hung it by the rear bumper with a crane, sandblasted the whole thing, then I sprayed it with two coats of 235 marine epoxy. Now it will now last longer than me.
Thanks for the I8MUD link I dont know my way around that site so well but is looks like it's in the right direction. It may be a huge pain, to repair the roof but when I bought my '40 is was a basket case (rust). I took it to work hung it by the rear bumper with a crane, sandblasted the whole thing, then I sprayed it with two coats of 235 marine epoxy. Now it will now last longer than me.
cruiseroutfit
Supporting Sponsor: Cruiser Outfitters
I've done a handful of them, including the top on my FJ40 and my trailer.
Basically I start by doing any needed fiberglass repair to the top. Better to do it while it is still attached to the sides so it has rigidity. Then remove the sides, back and door seals from the top. Next drill out each of the factory rivets as cleanly as possible (you don't have to drill all the way through, just remove the head and then using a small punch pop the rest of the rivet out). At that point clean up the mating surface of the top, I've found a light wire wheel does the trick, being careful not to comprimise the layers of the fiberglass. Then clean and the drip rail, remove any broken bolts that you often find when you remove the sides & back. If your planning on repainting these items, now is the time. Next using a hi quality sealant (I use a bodywork specific white silicone), apply a layer to the top and a layer to the drip rail, not overdoing it. Mate the two surfaces and begin the riveting process. I use a bunch of nails to line up 15-20 of the existing holes. At the same time I am drilling out the holes to to a slightly larger rivet size than the factory. One by one start inserting the new rivets. Do the corners, then a couple across the middle, working your way around the top until finished.
Makes for a nice clean top:
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Basically I start by doing any needed fiberglass repair to the top. Better to do it while it is still attached to the sides so it has rigidity. Then remove the sides, back and door seals from the top. Next drill out each of the factory rivets as cleanly as possible (you don't have to drill all the way through, just remove the head and then using a small punch pop the rest of the rivet out). At that point clean up the mating surface of the top, I've found a light wire wheel does the trick, being careful not to comprimise the layers of the fiberglass. Then clean and the drip rail, remove any broken bolts that you often find when you remove the sides & back. If your planning on repainting these items, now is the time. Next using a hi quality sealant (I use a bodywork specific white silicone), apply a layer to the top and a layer to the drip rail, not overdoing it. Mate the two surfaces and begin the riveting process. I use a bunch of nails to line up 15-20 of the existing holes. At the same time I am drilling out the holes to to a slightly larger rivet size than the factory. One by one start inserting the new rivets. Do the corners, then a couple across the middle, working your way around the top until finished.
Makes for a nice clean top:
cumminscruiser
Adventurer
FJ40 roof
Wow Thanks,
I'll give it a try. The roof also had a sun roof in it at some time, now there is just a big hole. I think instead of trying to fill the large hole I'll try to find another sun roof and put in.
Wow Thanks,
I'll give it a try. The roof also had a sun roof in it at some time, now there is just a big hole. I think instead of trying to fill the large hole I'll try to find another sun roof and put in.
Rock Hugger
New member
What kind of rivets are recomended OEM style, pop rivets? Or I thought about small ss bolts and nuts.
cumminscruiser
Adventurer
Fiberglass top
I guess they are just pop rivets, stainless steel, I think. I have two roofs to repair. I am looking for "cleecos or kleeckos" not sure about the spelling but its those aircraft sheetmetal tools for aligning rivet holes while assembling sheetmatal, I think that would be handy.
I guess they are just pop rivets, stainless steel, I think. I have two roofs to repair. I am looking for "cleecos or kleeckos" not sure about the spelling but its those aircraft sheetmetal tools for aligning rivet holes while assembling sheetmatal, I think that would be handy.
MoGas
Central Scrutinizer
cumminscruiser said:
It's Cleco. Aircraft Spruce is where I got mine (I'm also an A&P). The different colors are for different hole sizes.
Sheet alignment
Cleco tools
Great tools to have.
MoGas
Central Scrutinizer
Here's another place that has the larger diameter ones.
MoGas
Central Scrutinizer
And here's the Cleco manufacturer's site. They are in Kali.